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Series speaker cable ?

I loaded my Kustom with two 4ohm speakers and wired it series for a 8ohm load to play with both the Kustom head and my tube amps.

I am now in the process of getting a second Kustom 2x15 that is unloaded. I will load it with the same speakers and wire it to 8ohms.

So i can use both cabs with the Kustom head for a 4ohm load and get all 100watts out of it through 4 15inch speakers ;)

Then use a series box and use the same cabs with my Ampeg B25 and run a 16ohm load. So i would get 55watts of tube butter through 4 15inch speakers ;)

Sounds like great fun.:)
 
Hey theres an ideal series and parallel in the same box!
That's exactly what I built for a situation where I needed to run four 8-ohm monitors from a mixer amp with a 4-ohm minimum. I used a Radio Shack plastic hobby box (very easy to drill holes in). The single input jack feeds two pairs of series-wired jacks. The pairs are parallel so if I use all four output jacks I'm back to an 8-ohm load. Total cost was about $10 in parts plus a little wire and solder.
 
i made my own series box to use when i need to run my two 4 ohm cabs in series. i used an aluminum 'bud box' for it:

series-box-01.jpg


series-box-02.jpg


series-box-03.jpg


and here's the wiring diagram for it:

seriesboxwiring.jpg
 
One thing to keep in mind with speakers in series--if they're woofer-only cabs, no problem, but I've read here on TalkBass that it's a problem if they have a crossover. My monitors were all single-driver cabs so I didn't worry about it.
 
As you are kinda "rebuilding" the cabinets why not just add an extra jack to the jack panel. Make one cabinet the box. That way if you want to run parallel you use the regular input jacks. In series you use the new jack to interrupt the signal and pass it to the second cabinet.

Edit: Obviously the new jack should short without a plug inserted.
 
As you are kinda "rebuilding" the cabinets why not just add an extra jack to the jack panel. Make one cabinet the box. That way if you want to run parallel you use the regular input jacks. In series you use the new jack to interrupt the signal and pass it to the second cabinet.

Edit: Obviously the new jack should short without a plug inserted.

I know Kustom cabs are not rare by any means but i hate to mod it. And with a series/parellel box i will be able to use it with any cabs i come by! Like if i find another Ampeg SVT115e cab. Then i could run them at 16ohms for my B25 ;)
 
You can make one up real cheap. Use a weatherproof, small electrical outdoor junction box from the hardware store. Drill holes for three 1/4" jacks. Few inches of some scrap wire or old lamp cord, some solder, and you're there.

Regular speaker cable from the amp to the 1 "in" jack. 2 regular speaker cables from the 2 series connected "out" jacks to your 2 cabs.....real simple.

You would have to use either a non-conductive enclosure (i.e., plastic or something else non-metal) or insulated jacks. The enclosure would probably be easier to find.
 
Anything like these would work. I figure they'd be cheaper than something labeled a project box or electronics kit, etc. Can do plastic box and metal jacks or metal box and plastic jacks. Follow johnk's example, wiring diagram there.



4652.jpg
 
I had a 5"x1½"x3" Radio Schlack box and a few female 1/4" phono connectors and I've got 'er done!

I think this large is a better idea as it isn't as losable like my last three cellphones. Small things just walk away from me it seems.


Thanks for the info. It works great.

NOTE: The beer is just for relative size considerations:::

100_0435.jpg
 
I had a 5"x1½"x3" Radio Schlack box and a few female 1/4" phono connectors and I've got 'er done!

I think this large is a better idea as it isn't as losable like my last three cellphones. Small things just walk away from me it seems.


Thanks for the info. It works great.

NOTE: The beer is just for relative size considerations:::

100_0435.jpg

Careful there. What type of jacks are those? Read Bob Lee's post. If those are the type where the barrel of the jack (hole you plug into) is the negative connection, you may've inadvertently created a short. Your series connection involves connecting a + and a - in the box. If the actual box is a conductor for the - , see where that can cause problems? If they are the type where the barrel is insulated and there is a separate contact that touches the plug sleeve for the - , you may've got away with it. Take a meter and check continuity between the box and all your contacts...there shouldn't be any anywhere. Verify that before you use it with an amp.