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Setting witness point and intonation on a B string

fretlessman71

fretlessman71

Still beats havin' a job
Supporting Member
Aug 8, 2005
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#1
I've never thought about this before.

I know how to set intonation. The physics makes perfect sense.

I understand the idea of creating a break at the witness point, particularly on heavier strings like the E and low B.

However, it seems to me that if I set the intonation and THEN create a bend for the witness point, the string will once again need to be intonated, which will negate the original witness point I created.

If I start with the witness point, moving the saddle to intonate will again negate the witness point.

I can rough in the intonation and get very close, and then create a witness point, but I'm wondering if there's a tried-and-true way of having my cake and eating it too here.

It's just possible that I'm overthinking this, but I like my notes to be in tune. :bassist:
 
#2
After learning about setting witness points, which I learned about here on talkbass, I initially rough in bridge saddle positions by setting the G string to the scale length and then progressively setting remaining saddles slightly further from the nut. I gently set witness points at the tuner, nut, and bridge saddles. I then adjust intonation which typically is initially very close to correct.
Once I learned about setting witness points I no longer “stretch” new strings at installation and tuning, even with new strings, remains remarkably stable.
To directly answer your question, there may be a slight saddle position adjustment which is no big deal, based on my experience, relative to the tuning stability benefits. As in all things, YMMV.
 
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#3
One Way said:
After learning about setting witness points, which I learned about here on talkbass, I initially rough in bridge saddle positions by setting the G string to the scale length and then progressively setting remaining saddles slightly further from the nut. I gently set witness points at the tuner, nut, and bridge saddles. I then adjust intonation which typically is initially very close to correct.
Once I learned about setting witness points I no longer “stretch” new strings at installation and tuning, even with new strings, remains remarkably stable.
To directly answer your question, there may be a slight saddle position adjustment which is no big deal, based on my experience, relative to the tuning stability benefits. As in all things, YMMV.
Click to expand...
Exactly so. Although, I do stretch the strings after bringing them to pitch the first time. But, that's probably more a habit developed from endlessly re-stringing my guitars, than anything else...:rolleyes: Some trivia regarding saddle positions? Theoretically, each string should be intonated when it's saddle is set back the thickness of it's gauge, from higher string's saddle before it. Hardly ever happens, but I've had some bass/string combinations come pretty darn close. Which is about all you can ask for, really...:whistle:
 
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#4
GIBrat51 said:
Theoretically, each string should be intonated when it's saddle is set back the thickness of it's gauge, from higher string's saddle before it. Hardly ever happens, but I've had some bass/string combinations come pretty darn close. Which is about all you can ask for, really...:whistle:
Click to expand...
Don't remember where I learned this, but this is exactly what I do.
 
#5
I set witness point, then intonate, then set the witness point again. Kind of a back and forth operation til I am satisfied. And, after years of trying every string on the market, I settled on one main set of strings; material, guage and manufacturer. Reduces the need for intonating after string changes.
 
#10
I don't claim to be an expert but what I do is listen to the open string after I tune it to pitch and then play a couple frets and see how clear it sounds. If it sounds muffled or murky then I know something is up. Either a little twisted or the bridge saddle or nut is fighting me. So I would make sure to untwist and then check how it's seated on the saddle and make sure it looks good. Maybe give a little bit of pressing with my thumb and see if it settles in. Normally I don't notice any issues because I know my bridge and nut is in good shape and I only use good strings. No mystery strings from China or whatever. I make sure that's all good to go before I even look at intonation.
 
#11
If I change brand or guage of strings I as a general rule will not finalize the intonation until the strings have settled in. Like this. Change strings, stretch strings, set witness points at nut and bridge, set initial intonation, play strings a few times, and then set intonation again. Never had a problem.
 

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