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SG & EB Bass Club

Here is the EB-3 that is now my favorite.

EB2.jpg
 
Also, I need some recommendations on strings.

I've used Rotosound Swing 66 Nickels on my long-scale basses exclusively for years. Sadly Roto only makes short-scale 66s in .40-.90 and I'd prefer to keep the E at .100 (though I'm not super strict on that). So besides Rotos, what SS roundwounds might be the most similar?

On the other front, I'm looking at picking up a set of flat wounds for the first time since my first beater bass. I was thinking of going with LaBella lights because that' evidently what Bruce used, but I'm open to any suggestions. Someone also recommended TIs to me. My preference for Flats would be lower tension given I bend the string a fair amount, or at least a similar to tension to the Swing 66s.


I have a similar dilemma. I've been using LaBella Nylon Tapes .50 -.100 exclusively in the past year, and I'm very happy with them. But like "hopsbb" - I decided to switch up on one of my SG's for a change of pace. Now I'm sitting here scratching my head, staring at a set of D'Addario Chromes .45 -.100 and Roto 77's .40 -.90 and can't decide which to throw on there. I started with a Fender P using fat Roto 88's and never tried light gauge strings, but I don't see a problem with low-end on any Buckin' SG sporting a .90 E - so I assume I'll take the Roto 77's for a spin.

Anyway, FWIW from my (somewhat limited) experience, and speaking with others who know better than me, I would suggest you give LaBella a try and you shouldn't be disappointed. Good luck.
 
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Quick question: What year was jack bruce's SG Bass?

It was a 1966

Well, not quite. In Cream, he used a few different early-60s EB-3s. The first was a black cover one with a 3 way toggle, and then I believe there were two silver-cover wide spaced control models (one of which received white knobs at some point). From what I can tell, both of these (if there were in fact two, it's possible it was just the one with knobs changing over time) were from late '63-'65, as they feature the wide controls but the crown inlay on the headstock was centered instead of further towards the top. In the 70s he also used a post-'67 EB-0 (evertilt bridge, darker finish).
 
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Well, not quite. In Cream, he used a few different early-60s EB-3s. The first was a black cover one with a 3 way toggle, and then I believe there were two silver-cover wide spaced control models (one of which received white knobs at some point). From what I can tell, both of these (if there were in fact two, it's possible it was just the one with knobs changing over time) were from late '63-'65, as they feature the wide controls but the crown inlay on the headstock was centered instead of further towards the top. In the 70s he also used a post-'67 EB-0 (evertilt bridge, darker finish).
Thanks for the clarification.
All of the info I was able to generate was apparently incorrect
 
Well, not quite. In Cream, he used a few different early-60s EB-3s. The first was a black cover one with a 3 way toggle, and then I believe there were two silver-cover wide spaced control models (one of which received white knobs at some point). From what I can tell, both of these (if there were in fact two, it's possible it was just the one with knobs changing over time) were from late '63-'65, as they feature the wide controls but the crown inlay on the headstock was centered instead of further towards the top. In the 70s he also used a post-'67 EB-0 (evertilt bridge, darker finish).

In his reunion concert on YouTube he is playing an EB-1 (Violin shaped). It sounds pretty cool, but Cream was about the Who. Loud, loud, loud.
 
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That's a real beauty! can you comment about how the mudbucker sounds being in a more conventional location as opposed to the standard EB-3 location against the end of the fretboard?

I've played a SG Standard short scale for a long time before getting my EB-3. The mudbucker on my EB-3 has more bite and less mush IMO. That's because of the varitone circuit. One of the positions on the varitone is a series/parallel selector. It can get mushy, but you can also get a log of grind and mid boost because of the varitone.
 
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Compressor pedal for Epiphone EB-3: I have been playing bass with a pick all the time on my bass mainly because i produces louder sound than playing with fingers. Yesterday i tried some tricks with fingers but i was forced to play heavily mainly because that bass just doesnt sound equally loud on all sections of the neck resulting into damaging my fingers. Will a compressor pedal help with that problem? Of course i dont expect the ultimate "symmetry" on the neck but at least help not to hurt my fingers everytime? Also when i used a fuzz pedal (big muff pi bass) the sound volume was even more asymmetrical. (I am planing on using the compressor pedal with the fuzz)
 
I don't know if the pickups on the epi are the same, but I was able to even out the output in my '70 EB-3L by fiddling with pickup/pole piece height, and on mine the e was very weak and the g was red hot. If you go the comp route you need to find one with a ton of headroom because the pickups (especially the mudbucker) have extremely high output and will clip the compressor input resulting is some pretty unpleasant distortion.
 
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The current stopping point in my heavily modded Epiphone EB-0 -
From the top down:
New truss rod cover
Brass nut
Remounted the neck with threaded inserts into the neck and machine screws, and new neck plate
Dimarzio Model One on wooden shim
Full copper foil shielding of control and pickup cavities, with ground wire connecting the two
Replacement pots - volume is push/pull for series/parallel
Switchcraft jack
witch hat knobs and pointers (aka finger cutters)
Hipshot Supertone bridge

The last was just installed. Really liking it so far. More adjustment and able to get intonation to where I want it. As a side benefit was able to lower the action overall compared to the stock 3 pointer.
EB-0 final modifications.jpg
 

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