I actually don't have a bass with that kind of bridge. But nice to know there is a possible solid replacement if I did. Cheers
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Ah, ok...good. If you don't mind, what made you decide to move it to the horn? For me my beer belly makes the bass hang forward and before I go drilling new holes, I'd like some feedback.
I found it awkward in the stock position and it balanced a little better on the tip of the horn. But guitar scale bear in mind. Wouldn't do anything on a 34" scale neck diver unless you extend the button
My SG-shaped bass is an ESP/LTD Viper 256, and it came with the button on the horn. Works great, just like a "normal" bass.
I have done a lot of experimentation with strap button placement trying to tame a problem bass that I otherwise loved.
When the strap button is on the neck heel, the bass is free to rotate around it's centerline, tipping forward easily so the pickups face the ground. Not only are you fighting possible neckdive you're also countering "faceplant", so even if your bass is still a bit neck-heavy after moving it to the horn it's still an improvement in my opinion.
In addition, a heel button makes the neck stick out farther from your body, and if your bass is a long scale and you aren't tall comfort can be compromised. On my Ibanez Iceman, reaching the D tuner was a stretch and even playing up by the nut was uncomfortable before I fixed it with a button extension.
Ever notice that the majority of guitar and bass designs put the strap button at or close to the 12th fret?
A 4" upper horn extender for a long scale SG style bass would do the trick. Mucks about with the aesthetic appeal of the sg shape though if you want to maintain pure bad@ss
Some ideas https://www.talkbass.com/threads/hey-machinists-can-anyone-make-this-top-horn-extender.1562399/
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/ideas-to-extend-top-strap-button-for-better-balance.1387405/
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I reckon this young lady gives a nice review of an Epiphone EB-3
EB Chrome covers in stock. These are 52mm string space. This is the only string space we have in these covers. Other string space can be had in our vulcanex covers and we have some SLS covers left.
Attachments
For any of those keeping track, today is the birthday of Jack Bruce
Check out this 1970 EB-3 with Darkstars! That pickguard is cool!
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
I believe that belonged to the late great Dan Schwartz, aka mgod.
- Apr 18, 2008
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- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Oh hell I really need to whip up an SG body and drop my BiSonics into it....
So here they are (Epi´s), made myself:
- EB0 with Gotoh GB528 RES-O-LITE (above)
- EB3 with stock tuners taken from EB0 (bottom)
Gotoh tuners were 90% plug and play; drilling screws are 17mm, on EB0 seem to be 18 or 19.
Tuners taken from EB0 to EB3, 3 of the 4 screws found their natural path.
I fixed my OCD by changing the tuners, now got another one with screws.
DiMarzio pickup has not yet been replaced on the EB0.
Two years with this Epiphone EB0, 2008, now decided to shim the neck, to achieve a lower action string.
Tried 2 shims: one thicker, and a second thinner, which I liked better. I don't know the size because I didn't measure them.
Then I needed to loosen trussrod a little (due to fret buzz on first three frets of the G string) adjust the 3-point bridge height and that was it.
Maybe it could go a little lower, but it's already good, better than before.
Photos only when finished; according my eyes on ruler and 12th fret:
* Treble side: 1/16 ~ 5/64 in or 1,75 ~ 2mm
* Bass side: 7/64 ~ 1/8 in or 2,5 ~2.75mm
* Daddario EXL220-S (.040/095)
Sent it to a real guitar tech pro, for general setup.
They did fretwork, new shim, better than my amateur one.
Not least, corrected my Gotoh tuners screws installation.
Enjoyed results.
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
My '68. It was trashed when I got it (although structurally sound), so I didn't feel like I was ruining any vintage value. I have no idea about why there are two holes to the left of the pickups. I need to play this more. It sounds very nice.
Looks like it had a few tugbars over the years.
I was baffled by the placement of the one on my '62 Precision, as by the mid '70s when I got it few people played with their thumb.
The "Hootenanny" strap button on the back of the headstock confused me for a long time, too, until I saw some old folk music album cover.
I was baffled by the placement of the one on my '62 Precision, as by the mid '70s when I got it few people played with their thumb.
The "Hootenanny" strap button on the back of the headstock confused me for a long time, too, until I saw some old folk music album cover.
I'm back with this lovely 32" Tokai:
I've since replaced the bridge pickup with an Artec oversized mini-humbucker (the neck is thankfully an EBC-4), and wired a Series 1 vintage wiring in it. The position 1 and 2 sound great, but position 3 and 4 (with mudbucker through a "baritone" circuit) have very low output. Any insights?
I've since replaced the bridge pickup with an Artec oversized mini-humbucker (the neck is thankfully an EBC-4), and wired a Series 1 vintage wiring in it. The position 1 and 2 sound great, but position 3 and 4 (with mudbucker through a "baritone" circuit) have very low output. Any insights?
FWIW I'm using a small audio transformer as the choke. It's got an inductance of 1.6 H and resistance of 75 Ω. I've met this problem before when I modded my Gibson SG bass, but this bass sounds much better: deep, sub-heavy neck and chewy, twangy brodge.
To be expected, in my experience.
When I had my '66 Gibson EB-3[that I stupidly sold], I used position 1(neck mudbucker) for everything 'cept an occasional solo on position 2(bridge). Positions 3&4 were-IMO-useless.
My later(2006)Epi EB-3L had a 3 position switch: 1=bridge, 2=both, 3=neck. I used 3 always 'cept on breaks when I put it on 1[volume @0]as a mute. The bass sounded good, but being a long neck on a "SG" body, dove like a Stuka. Sold it-no regrets.
