Double Bass shim under string in bridge?

[shwashwa]

im considering slightly changing the curature of my bridge. i think i want my G to be higher while the other strings remain exactly the same. i want to do this for tone and feel reasons. the question is, is it possible to accomplish this by adding some sort of shim under the G string to see if i like it, even if its only temporary in order to see if i want to get the bridge re carved? can some sort of a shim be installed permanently?

 

[neilG]

I think vellum is the time-honored substance to use, but you're not likely to have any around. I've seen pieces of ordinary leather or paper used. How much of a shim do you need?

 

[shwashwa]

well, i want to experiment, but maybe around 2mm give or take 1.

 

[korotkov]

Definitely leather and superglue. Great way to experiment with the curve. Don't get you string glued to the bridge!

 

[Chris Fitzgerald]

I would like to hear more about this for future use from luthiers. If you use superglue, once done it's a done deal and there's no turning back, right? Also curious about what kind of material to make the shim out of specifically, what size, etc.... any details would be lovely.

 

[robobass]

Those out there who are old enough remember that Thomastic used to include little metal saddles with each string set. I guess the idea was that it would protect the string if you had sloppy notches. This would suit this purpose well if you could find one. I don't like the idea of leather and superglue, since it would likely bind on the string causing it to pull on the bridge. Maybe you could get a small piece of teflon sheet from a hobby store?

 

[Eric Hochberg]

Just shove something under the string without glue to find out if you like the height. Then, if you do, get the bridge reshaped.

 

[gerry grable]

Those out there who are old enough remember that Thomastic used to include little metal saddles with each string set. I guess the idea was that it would protect the string if you had sloppy notches. This would suit this purpose well if you could find one. I don't like the idea of leather and superglue, since it would likely bind on the string causing it to pull on the bridge. Maybe you could get a small piece of teflon sheet from a hobby store?

Yes, I remember them. Also, didn't they used to supply rather thick, rubber/plastic (?) washers that would sit over the notches under the strings?
I never did figure out what they were supposed to do. Anti-buzzes? Dampers?

 

[Jake deVilliers]

I guess if you had the skills you could graft a piece of maple onto the existing bridge and cut a new slot. If done right it would be pretty much invisible.

 

[Jake deVilliers]

Yes, I remember them. Also, didn't they used to supply rather thick, rubber/plastic (?) washers that would sit over the notches under the strings?
I never did figure out what they were supposed to do. Anti-buzzes? Dampers?

The rubber washers/filters were to help those basses with an overbearing (usually the D) string.

 

[bejoyous]

At the nut, I've used layers of wax paper to raise the string then cut away the excess with razor. I imagine it would work on the bridge, too. The wax is slippery for tuning purposes and binds together to make a solid material for the vibrations to flow through.

 

[bejoyous]

Also, my luthier raised the slot in the nut permanently using this method:

Make some ebony dust by sanding some ebony.
Put a bead of gel super glue in the slot. (The gel doesn't run and comes in a squeeze bottle for controlled application.)
Pour lots of ebony dust on it while it's wet. (I can't remember if he mixed it in with a toothpick or not.)
Let dry until it is hard. File down with a needle file to the desired level.
When at the right level, coat with pencil lead for lubrication.

Practice on scrap wood first!

 

[robobass]

Also, my luthier raised the slot in the nut permanently using this method:

Make some ebony dust by sanding some ebony.
Put a bead of gel super glue in the slot. (The gel doesn't run and comes in a squeeze bottle for controlled application.)
Pour lots of ebony dust on it while it's wet. (I can't remember if he mixed it in with a toothpick or not.)
Let dry until it is hard. File down with a needle file to the desired level.
When at the right level, coat with pencil lead for lubrication.

Practice on scrap wood first!

People talk about this method. I've certainly used ebony dust / CA glue for fingerboard repairs, but for a bridge notch it seems like more work and trouble than just splicing in some more maple. In the case of a nut it also seems like it would be simpler to just add a shim underneath and recarve the slots and surface to suit.

In this case the OP just wants a test, so any of these methods are irrelevant anyway.

 

[robobass]

I used to have a little collection of lead wine foils, which were really good for both nut and bridge when experimenting. I don't think I still have them, or that one can get them anymore, unless you know someone really rich who sometimes pops open vintage bottles.

 

[shwashwa]

ok, so i guess there is not a universally accepted method for doing something like this. i was trying to draw on the collective TB wisdom to see if there was. i realize i could just put a business card or 2 under there and tear off the excess to see how it works, although one of the things im thinking is that by raising the height it will improve the feel, but also the sound of that string, but using paper might harm the sound

 

[Jake deVilliers]

I used to have a little collection of lead wine foils, which were really good for both nut and bridge when experimenting. I don't think I still have them, or that one can get them anymore, unless you know someone really rich who sometimes pops open vintage bottles.

They still have lead foil on much of the Spanish wine I buy. Good idea!

 

[Jake deVilliers]

ok, so i guess there is not a universally accepted method for doing something like this. i was trying to draw on the collective TB wisdom to see if there was. i realize i could just put a business card or 2 under there and tear off the excess to see how it works, although one of the things im thinking is that by raising the height it will improve the feel, but also the sound of that string, but using paper might harm the sound

Fold up a little wad of aluminium foil - it'll give you an idea of how its going to sound up higher.

 

[Jake deVilliers]

Also, my luthier raised the slot in the nut permanently using this method:

Make some ebony dust by sanding some ebony.
Put a bead of gel super glue in the slot. (The gel doesn't run and comes in a squeeze bottle for controlled application.)
Pour lots of ebony dust on it while it's wet. (I can't remember if he mixed it in with a toothpick or not.)
Let dry until it is hard. File down with a needle file to the desired level.
When at the right level, coat with pencil lead for lubrication.

Practice on scrap wood first!

Eww... That's for cheesy wannabe guitar repairmen, Brian. My shop partner at the store (who sets up more guitars in a month than most people will see in a lifetime) doesn't stoop to such methods and neither should you!

 

[Jake deVilliers]

I've certainly used ebony dust / CA glue for fingerboard repairs, but for a bridge notch it seems like more work and trouble than just splicing in some more maple. In the case of a nut it also seems like it would be simpler to just add a shim underneath and recarve the slots and surface to suit.

+1 That's exactly what I was thinking.

 

[GretschWretch]

Okay; I see Jake's conclusion in his two previous posts, but I don't understand the reasoning. If all the nut slots were too low I could see putting a shim beneath; but for just one slot, how is the sanding dust and CA glue fix "cheesy"? It certainly is less work than making a shim, fitting it, and redressing *four* nut slots when only one is the problem. And it is the same kind of repair Dan Erlewine suggests for guitar nuts, and he is a world-class guitar luthier (and yes, I know the difference between guitar and URB luthierie). The only difference is Erlewine uses baking soda instead of sanding dust, because he is not filling a slot in wood. I guess I am looking for something along the lines of, it's a cheesy repair because . . . .

This thread is beginning to remind me of my last trip across Utah. My traveling companions all cheesed out on me and I had to get to Provo alone.