• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Short scale Eight string?

Here are the after (or before) pictures depending on your perspective:
20170615_151039_zps50kd1wm5.jpg


20170615_151050_zpsfljljxlr.jpg


It definitely smells - I think as long as I live if I smell this sooty smell it will take me back to the fire.
 
I'll have to fill in the string retention block. I filled the holes with a dowel, I think I'll use epoxy for the slots:
20170616_091531_zps5zao8mmb.jpg


I sanded the body down mostly:
20170616_091551_zpse4s82o8n.jpg


I have a large cavity to fill where the tuners were, I made a block out of mahogany. Making it fit exactly will be difficult so I'm trying to figure out what my options are. The bridge will sit right on top of this, so I need it to be solid. I might switch to maple. I'm considering making it as close as I can, then using epoxy to fill in the gaps. More work needed.
20170616_091540_zpskjxcel52.jpg
 
I got a good deal on one of those Schaller eight string bridges on Reverb (not a great deal, a good deal). I downloaded the dimensions and mocked one up out of paper. The good news is the string spacing is perfect, I was a bit worried as I didn't recall what spacing I was going for in my home made bridge. The bad news is there are four screw holes that will be exposed from the old bridge. I think I'll route a pool recess and fill it with some interesting maple to cover the holes.
20170616_102910_zpsrlldkfl0.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: ctmullins
I sanded down the epoxy, it came out great, in the end I realized this was unnecessary, but it's done?
20170617_085342_zpsq2hu7xr6.jpg

I did a lot of staring before realizing the only way this was going to work out was by working around the truss rod. I was thinking I could just glue the scarf joint to the back of the neck, but that would leave a lot of real estate between the end of the headstock and the nut. Hard to know where my head was at, but let's get to scarfing. Due to the truss rod being in the middle there, my choices for how to do the initial cut were limited. I opted for the fret saw, cut in half ways from both sides:
20170617_091737_zpslibbcbz5.jpg


Rough, but not too bad:
20170617_091742_zpsputeecp6.jpg


A bit more work needed to flatten it out perfectly, but it's getting close:
20170617_095644_zpsd0okvvlw.jpg


I had a piece of wood the same thickness as a piece of headstock and for the life of me I couldn't get it to work. I thought I had really messed things up. Then I realized that I can use a much thicker piece of wood for the scarf joint and thin it down for the headstock. I know this is a stupid realization, but at least I figured it out. I cut a test piece to see what the angle would look like and see how things would come together. It looks like I need a piece of wood about an inch thick. The top, where I filled with epoxy will end up mostly sawn off at the same angle as the headstock.
20170617_095634_zps9fvxdzv2.jpg


I have a piece of maple here that's the right thickness so I think I'll keep things simple and just use that. I was thinking of hippy sandwiching the thing and I may still do that, but I don't want to contrast with the rest of the build too much.
 
  • Like
Reactions: afa3
I was looking at the neck and it seemed awfully thick, I measured and for some reason I left 3/8" behind the truss rod. Eight strings is extra tension, but that seemed like overkill, so I took it down to 1/4" and I took down the "shoulders" quite a bit, it feels much better. Let's hope it doesn't fold over :-D
20170617_130417_zpsqlu2x2wj.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: cdlynch
I dunno man. I spent over an hour trying to get this stupid, ok it's not stupid, but it's STUPID scarf joint tight. It appears that both sides are perfectly flat and straight, the truss rod path is long and deep enough and I can still see lots of daylight between the joint. I need to get some carbon paper or chalk and see if I can figure out what's going on. Sometimes these things are better with a fresh mind.

Go for it! just don't do a scarf joint after you install the truss rod!
 
  • Like
Reactions: cdlynch
Neck stuff terrifies me. Maybe someday, but I need to move to a place I can set up a small shop first. In the meantime I'll throw my respect at you.

Would it do any good to have self-stick sandpaper on one surface and work the other side with it? I'm trying to imagine a jig that would hold both parts perfectly parallel for sanding, and smoke is pouring out my ears. I'd better go make a pizza instead of a bass...
 
Ha, yeah the problem in this case is that the truss rod is in the way and the neck is already carved so it's hard to hold it level. I think my next step is to put some pins in to hold it in place then hopefully I can get a good look at things, as I'm trying to look the pieces are slipping around. Even if you try to clamp them, they want to slip apart. I'll get it worked out. One trick is to put carbon paper between the pieces and wherever it makes marks are your high spots, you just keep working them out. That's probably the best thing to do here.
 
Pins and carbon paper made this super easy. I found two high spots in the middle of the joint, pretty quickly, sanded them down and it appeared that I had a pretty solid joint. Glued it up, time will tell if I got it right. I am still not 100% sure what this will look like in the end, but I think this should work - making things up as I go here to some degree.
20170618_153931_zpssxzrxlbu.jpg
 
Glue up seemed to go well, I see some gaps, but I can't really tell how it will look in the end.
I made myself a metal router sled. It worked perfectly to thin down the headstock. After all was said and done there wasn't much of a back angle on the headstock, so I planed it at an angle to give it a bit more.

The sled ready to go:
20170619_085617_zpsi9ualjji.jpg


Front is done:
20170619_091200_zps40nx24ep.jpg


After getting the back planed I sanded, scraped and used the oscillating drum sander to bring everything in a bit
20170619_094802_zpstyyqxb8m.jpg

It looks like while I was trying to figure out where my gap was I made the tunnel for the truss rod too deep. I'll have to do an inlay of some sort to hide this, another not a mistake, it's a feature!
20170619_094807_zpsexolvzbp.jpg


The front has a lot of weirdness going on so I put a laminate over it, black sandwiched under some walnut. I didn't want to cover up that other walnut, but I had no choice. I planed it thin enough so I could do this. Luckily it's a short scale neck, it just barely fits inside the vacuum bag.
20170619_101149_zps7dpiglt8.jpg


I've got the week off, I've got a lot of loose ends to wrap up on the four string bolt on, fiver fretless, another four string short scale that has wiring problems and the stubby seems to be eating batteries very quickly (also suspect a wiring problem). Hopefully get all those straightened out this week in between other house stuff.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: cdlynch
I didn't do a great job of documenting everything, but I filled in the hole in the back with a block of hard maple, I epoxied it in with tons of epoxy so all the gaps were filled (the hole is a bit irregular). Then I made a cover, it's obviously much too big right now. I'll sand it down once the glue is dry. The maple block underneath isn't quite big enough, but I glued in some spacers to support the cover. The cover itself will end up being pretty thin (maybe 1/16" thick), but there should be enough support for that to be ok.
20170619_154617_zpsnk2dxsff.jpg


I inlayed this piece of maple to cover up the blow through where I routed into the truss rod slot. I see that the new headstock is not lined up perfectly with the neck. I lined the inlay up with the walnut stripe in the neck as I figured that would be more prominent than the seam between the two pieces of walnut in the headstock. I think once the tuners are on you won't notice it being off one way or the other.
20170619_155251_zpsf9aqlli3.jpg


Finally I laid out the headstock. This is why I wanted this to be headless, that's a boatload of tuners.
20170619_162115_zpscga7vzx6.jpg


I guess at this point I've caught up to the wet glue. I'll pick it back up tomorrow. I think this is going to end up being a very weird looking instrument with all these inlays. I still need to do one more to cover the bridge screw holes. In the worst case it looks like a patchwork of wood. I'm pretty excited to see how this thing comes out though.

The bridge should be in my mailbox now, I think I'll go see if it is.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cdlynch
I sanded the cover I put on last night down to the body, it came out great. This is just roughly shaped, I'll bring it all in once I do final sanding. I have one small void where I went too far with the saw while cutting the piece out, but I should be able to fill that in easily.
20170620_084955_zpshxadnqld.jpg


20170620_085001_zpsrgplvcdr.jpg


I got the pool route done to cover over the holes where the old bridge was. It's a good thing I did this, there was a gap between the maple block I put in and the top, depending on how long my bridge screws were that could have been a problem - there's no way that piece of sapele on the front would support the bridge.

I didn't take any pictures along the way, I got in the zone and just moved through it. I routed the top, then I cut a piece of maple to fill in the gap between the block and the back - it was maybe 1/8" gap, so nothing too big. I guess at this point I have quite a piece of plywood that I built up one piece at a time.

I used tiger maple to fill in the route. I found my jig for making matching covers, but by the time I found it I had already routed the hole, so too late to use it. I reverted to the old school method of making a matching cover - essentially brute force. I cut a piece of paper so it fit in the hole perfectly, then transferred that to a thin piece of wood, then slowly worked my way around the cover to remove anything that stuck out until I got a tight fit. I had to be careful as I got close to the end as there would be no way to pull it back out if it got stuck in there. When I do covers I can always push it back out through one of the holes for the controls. It seems like it's a really tight fit all the way around. Once I was satisfied I tapped it in with a hammer. It seemed like it was in tight and really didn't need clamps, but since I have the bag I thought I might as well use it. I was surprised how much more glue oozed out as I removed the air. This thing is very useful!

The only pic I took:
20170620_115626_zpsloejxpa4.jpg


I think this is the last thing I need to fix, seriously at this point I think I could have made a whole new body in the amount of time it took me to fix this one.

I might try to get the headstock cut and tuners holes drilled this afternoon after tackling a few honey dos. I have more clean up to do on the neck as well, especially on the transition. I guess I could be ready to start finishing this by the end of the week, that's pretty cool.

I got a Whammy pedal a few months ago and I was thinking that this will essentially be the Whammy pedal on "octave up" mode except I can't turn it off, how's that for a motivating thought :-D
 
  • Like
Reactions: cdlynch
I used the router sled to plane off the excess, I must say it came out really nice, I don't see any gaps. As I was matching the inlay to the hole I made adjustments on both the hole and the top. I was very careful about gaps, but it looks like I may have made more adjustments to the hole than I should have and lost a little symmetry, no big deal I guess, but next time I need to think more about the top matching the hole than getting a tight fit.
20170621_080538_zpsyp15cmto.jpg


All that work and 90% of it gets covered by the bridge, but hey you can't see the screw holes and I know that the screws holding the bridge in place are going into hard maple instead of sapele and air.
20170621_080551_zpsrz5lxndl.jpg