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Short scale strings
- Thread starter cirrosis
- Start date
Bass strings, due to their thickness, are designed in a way the part that's supposed to wrap around the tuner post is thinner than the main body, ie the fully wound part. If you were to try using "long scale" strings on a short scale bass, you would need to cut into the main body of the string and the thickest part of the string ends up wrapping around the tuner post, which is not ideal as it may result in breakage, especially on basses equipped with small and skinny tuner posts.
While we're on the subject of "short scale strings", a couple of important considerations...
- Not all "short scale" basses take "short scale" strings for a proper fit, depending on the bridge design and installation method (top-load vs. thru-body).
- "Short scale" strings can vary in their actual winding length (ball end to taper), depending on the manufacturer/brand.
The thru-body Mustang needs roughly 34" (give/take 0.5") in winding length, which is most major manufacturers' "medium scale". One notable exception is DR's "short scale", which is 33.75" in winding length.
"Regular" = "long scale". No, the thru-body Mustang needs "medium scale" strings.
I've used medium scale Chromes on thru-body Mustangs. Now I have LaBella 760F-MU flats specifically made for Mustangs on my JMJ and I am happy with them.
-robert
-robert
The tuner post is big on a Mustang so most round wounds with a .100 or .105 E string will be fine. Where you really run into trouble is with flat wounds or stiffer, large gauge rounds. Those will break a lot more easily where it turns onto the tuner post. If you can find strings you like in a medium gauge definitely use them. Always best to have the proper fit. But if you can’t then a regular long scale like a D’addario XL with a .100 E string will be fine.
Let us all repeat the mantra:
1) measure from the string ball anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the string ball anchor to the middle of the lowest string (usually E string) tuner post;
3) purchase strings that the winding or speaking length is between these two measurements.
I absolutely, respectfully, disagree with the above posts: Fender using long scale flats on a Mustang string-through be damned, you will eventually break strings using long scale strings on a short scale bass. You will see posts on this forum: "But they work for me - I haven't broken one," to which I say YET, because I have seen it happen, and it will happen, eventually.
Oh - BTW - the original Mustang tuners were narrow diameter post tuners.
That said, God's gift to short scale bass players is the GHS Balanced Pure Nickels set: Jon Moody designed them for short scale; they have a big, round tone; they are, as the name, consistent from string-to-string and up the neck; they don't twang or go thump; they last a long, long time; they are reasonable in price. These are what I use on my travel bass when my band goes to Mexico for their annual gig trip.
1) measure from the string ball anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the string ball anchor to the middle of the lowest string (usually E string) tuner post;
3) purchase strings that the winding or speaking length is between these two measurements.
I absolutely, respectfully, disagree with the above posts: Fender using long scale flats on a Mustang string-through be damned, you will eventually break strings using long scale strings on a short scale bass. You will see posts on this forum: "But they work for me - I haven't broken one," to which I say YET, because I have seen it happen, and it will happen, eventually.
Oh - BTW - the original Mustang tuners were narrow diameter post tuners.
That said, God's gift to short scale bass players is the GHS Balanced Pure Nickels set: Jon Moody designed them for short scale; they have a big, round tone; they are, as the name, consistent from string-to-string and up the neck; they don't twang or go thump; they last a long, long time; they are reasonable in price. These are what I use on my travel bass when my band goes to Mexico for their annual gig trip.
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This is a very timely thread for me. I love GHS Pressurewounds on my short scale Maruszczyk Jake, so I want to try them on my Mustang. Unfortunately, GHS no longer makes medium scale Pressurewounds, so just this morning I ordered a set of long scale. I know it's not ideal, as explained above, but I'm giving it a go.
There was a thread recently by someone who was using the long-scale PWs on his 32" scale bass with no issues.
For what it's worth: My boutique short scale (Birdsong cBass) was shipped to me wearing Curt Mangan 45-105 roundwound regular length strings. I've used them on all my short scale basses ever since, without incident.
Short answer is; no, not “any” will work, just “some” will work.
Some long scale strings have a final / outermost winding for a 34” scale bass that is the minimum length to span from the back edge of a bent plate bridge (string ball anchor point) to just barely beyond the tuner side of the nut. Those strings will work on a string-through-body Mustang with large post tuners. The final winding diameter of the “E” string will end up going about 1/8 the way around the tuning post. The final winding of the other strings won’t reach the tuning post. If a string set shows to have a final winding length of 36”, too much of the E string final winding will end up around the tuning post, which might not work out if it’s a .105” diameter E string.
I’ve used long scale strings on my CIJapan Mustang for most of 20 years, but I have found some that won’t work. I did discover early on that the final winding of most short scale strings are too short for my Mustang.
GHS Balanced Nickels
Just for clarification for the OP, who's looking for suitable strings for a thru-body Mustang, GHS Balanced Nickels do NOT come in "medium scale" as such.
Yes that is true. But if you forgo through body stringing the short scale should fit no problem.
