That same bass can be had new from Sweetwater for $299 (?). Looks like you're already there price-wise for a bass with a future truss rod fail.
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Should I Be Concerned?
- Thread starter himluis1
- Start date
I have purchased three used basses from GC over the years and two had trussrod nuts that were stripped.
No wrenceh would work. They got returned the next day. The third one had cracked headstock around the B-string tuner. I only buy new basses now. I have no time in my schedule for troubleshooting and returning
used music equipment.
No wrenceh would work. They got returned the next day. The third one had cracked headstock around the B-string tuner. I only buy new basses now. I have no time in my schedule for troubleshooting and returning
used music equipment.
The fantastic information in these front page threads is always fantastic. 
Another trick with gnarled nuts and parts, especially when breaking loose auto stuff etc, is to weld another new nut on top of the old one, maybe JB weld etc. Be creative.
The first thing that always comes to mind for me when I see a truss rod not like that, is why? Why did it get beat up in the first place? Usually that means that it's a neck that requires frequent adjustments in order to keep the relief set properly. Also, I personally have owned quite a few Squier basses as well as having lots of them come across my bench. I've yet to ever see one that uses a dual action rod. Fender US MIM MIJ CIJ don't seem to like those. Although they did use a bi-flex rod for awhile which is similar. Also, every import Squier I've worked on had had either a 4mm (newer builds) or a 5 mm (early builds). There are manufactured in Indonesia and China so metric hex sockets. You say that the rod turns both directions. How easily does it turn? Can you do a 3/4 or a bit more both ways? Also, if it's very stiff that could indicate an issue.
Anytime I buy used I take a truss rod wrench with me and check to make sure that the rod nut would move in both directions. Sometimes later on after getting the instrument home and doing a setup I would find that yeah, the rod did turn but it was almost right at the end of the threads. Therefore bottoming out before I could get the neck set in proper relief. BTW the basses I encountered that had that issue also had rod nuts that were worn looking like the one you pictured. My guess is it's more likely that somebody was doing the adjustment work without loosening the strings a bit and moving them out of the way to get better access to the nut, so it got chewed up a bit. We're using a hex key that wasn't long enough to begin with and didn't fully reach in there. As long as it plays out well and you can move the rod easily and it does actually move the neck I think you're probably ok. And if not you have 45 days to return it.
Anytime I buy used I take a truss rod wrench with me and check to make sure that the rod nut would move in both directions. Sometimes later on after getting the instrument home and doing a setup I would find that yeah, the rod did turn but it was almost right at the end of the threads. Therefore bottoming out before I could get the neck set in proper relief. BTW the basses I encountered that had that issue also had rod nuts that were worn looking like the one you pictured. My guess is it's more likely that somebody was doing the adjustment work without loosening the strings a bit and moving them out of the way to get better access to the nut, so it got chewed up a bit. We're using a hex key that wasn't long enough to begin with and didn't fully reach in there. As long as it plays out well and you can move the rod easily and it does actually move the neck I think you're probably ok. And if not you have 45 days to return it.
So true. Our humidity is so high once a bass is set up right there are very few adjustments with the different seasons.
$299 new plus tax & no preamp
mine was $273.00 to be exact with shipping and tax and a $100 preamp already installed
I bought a mint MIM fender jazz from GC that was like this, I sent it back. It may be a sign that the neck is not stable and needs frequent adjustments. Final test? How does the neck grain look? Straight up & down or all directions?
I have a MIM Fender p bass neck that had a similar damage on the truss rod nut. The neck was not installed on a bass and the access was at the headstock.
I have been able to remove it from the neck with a very high quality Allan wrench (black steel, made in USA) making sure I was pushing the Allan key while turning the nut counterclockwise to make sure it remains fully engaged.
I then discovered the nut was kind of stuck in varnish !
Anyhow, I wanted to make sure I wouldn’t have any problems in the future so I bought a new nut and installed it taking care to put a bit of Teflon grease on the threads and it now turns easily.
I have been able to remove it from the neck with a very high quality Allan wrench (black steel, made in USA) making sure I was pushing the Allan key while turning the nut counterclockwise to make sure it remains fully engaged.
I then discovered the nut was kind of stuck in varnish !
Anyhow, I wanted to make sure I wouldn’t have any problems in the future so I bought a new nut and installed it taking care to put a bit of Teflon grease on the threads and it now turns easily.
Very True.
But you don't "need" a pre-amp, but you do "need" a good truss rod. It's up to you. Maybe the truss won't ever become a problem.
They probably have a boatload of these for sale at GC, why take the risk? My advice is to send it back.
I'd return it. Truss rod issues of any sort suck. Not worth the risk. If it goes, I'd probably replace the neck in lieu of fixing the truss rod.
I thought you were going to ask about the string alignment. It looks like the G is almost off the fingerboard.
Your MIM was old enough to have a single action TR. The nut just screws on. This is a double action TR and the nut can't be removed without destroying the rod.
