Should I just call an electrician?

[JustForSport]

They happen to be on either side of the sink- aren't they supposed to be GFCI that close to a water source?
The receptacle behind the refrigerator is directly above the water line for the ice maker, might be why it was a GFCI, don't know.

Those should all be GFIC.

The one in the photo looks like maybe the wire wasn't in the terminal far enough or tight enough and at a surge, arced and left enough of a gap the circuit wasn't complete. I've seen that happen a few times. But the likelyhood of that happening in more than one outlet--- well, if it was the same electrician that installed them....

 

[254 stringer]

That most likely burned up from the connection not being tight and probably feeds everything down the line from that recept. The best way to fix that is make joints on the wires with wire nuts. Get a short piece to wire the recept with and then twist them together and put on a nut it's a lot better connection than feeding through a plug. Also plugs within 6' of the sink need to be gfci the fridge does not but if you make joints you lose your gfi protection down the line from that plug and would need to change any recepts near the sink.

 

[samson3382]

Those should all be GFIC.

The one in the photo looks like maybe the wire wasn't in the terminal far enough or tight enough and at a surge, arced and left enough of a gap the circuit wasn't complete. I've seen that happen a few times. But the likelyhood of that happening in more than one outlet--- well, if it was the same electrician that installed them....

Wouldn't be the first questionable construction fluke I've found with this place.

Yeah, it literally looked like there was enough exposed that the wires could have touched.

 

[blastoff99]

You don't necessarily need two gfci outlets. If you have gfci protection on an outlet, every outlet "downstream" will have protection too.

There are places you don't want gfci. Igniters for gas stoves don't like them. Check owner's manuals.

 

[samson3382]

You don't necessarily need two gfci outlets. If you have gfci protection on an outlet, every outlet "downstream" will have protection too.

There are places you don't want gfci. Igniters for gas stoves don't like them. Check owner's manuals.

No gas here.
Good to know. In that case I'll just put one on the first outlet on the breaker.

Edit; being electric, the range is on its own independent 240 breaker.

 

[ak56]

Of course.

Here's what I found;
View attachment 787833
Breaker is off, this box is definitely done, I'd feel comfortable replacing it..

Looks like they used those &*^%* push-in connections for the wires on the back of that thing. Those can have a poor connection and cause exactly the symptom you see. The bad connection heats up, and things start to arc and melt.

When replacing any outlets and switches, wire them up using the screw terminals - not those push-in connections (those things should be outlawed). I've read comments from electricians that have said that those are the most frequent cause of them having to do repairs in homes.

 

[sissy kathy]

Looks like they used those &*^%* push-in connections for the wires on the back of that thing. Those can have a poor connection and cause exactly the symptom you see. The bad connection heats up, and things start to arc and melt.

When replacing any outlets and switches, wire them up using the screw terminals - not those push-in connections (those things should be outlawed). I've read comments from electricians that have said that those are the most frequent cause of them having to do repairs in homes.

Those aren't push in connectors. The screws on the sides operate an internal clamp. Additionally push in connectors will not work on 12 guage wire, only in 14. Pushins for 12 guage wire were banned in '95 or so.

 

[sissy kathy]

You don't necessarily need two gfci outlets. If you have gfci protection on an outlet, every outlet "downstream" will have protection too.

There are places you don't want gfci. Igniters for gas stoves don't like them. Check owner's manuals.

National Electric Code requires all non-dedicated outlets in the kitchen and adjacent rooms to be wired in 12 gauge wire; further the outlets in the kitchen counter area(s) must be GFCI protected AND no two adjacent outlets may be on the same circuit. In fact you need a minimum of 4 GFCI outlets/circuit breakers in a modern house; one for the bath areas, two for the kitchen, and one more for outside recepticals. You may need more that that depending on other issues.

 

[ak56]

Those aren't push in connectors. The screws on the sides operate an internal clamp. Additionally push in connectors will not work on 12 guage wire, only in 14. Pushins for 12 guage wire were banned in '95 or so.

My house was built in '79 and they used the pishins. I've swapped out all in the kitchen, dining room & living room, and others when I've been at them.

 

[sissy kathy]

I know the breaker was overloaded, possibly heavily, but yeah, why didn't it just pop the breaker?

Unless you have a "Square D" panel and circuit breakers You won't always get a trip when you should, now it's been almost 20 years since I worked as an electrician but that was always my experience. Some circuit breakers are little more than a switch they operate so poorly.

 

[sissy kathy]

20 amp breaker, 15 amp receptacle? Just guessing.

No, notice that a device has two receptacles, each receptacle is rated at 15 amps, they are allowed on a 20 amp circuit.

 

[sissy kathy]

That most likely burned up from the connection not being tight and probably feeds everything down the line from that recept. The best way to fix that is make joints on the wires with wire nuts. Get a short piece to wire the recept with and then twist them together and put on a nut it's a lot better connection than feeding through a plug. Also plugs within 6' of the sink need to be gfci the fridge does not but if you make joints you lose your gfi protection down the line from that plug and would need to change any recepts near the sink.

EDITED: Didn't read your post comprehensively. If that is done you just need to ID the next outlet in line and put a GFCI there.

 

[Electric Al]

Please call a licensed electrician !!!

This could be potentially a fire hazard !

BTW I am an electrician (retired) . Still licensed , but I am 74 now . I don't make house calls , in fact I don't make any calls !

JOKING ASIDE , This could be HAZARD !!!

PLEASE HAVE IT LOOKED AFTER !! ASAP .

 

[fretter]

Even in a house with "solid bones" the wiring can be substandard on some circuits, if a previous homeowner or unlicensed individual added to the original setup.

 

[254 stringer]

NO, don't do that. Look at the back of the outlet. Notice the bottom set of screws are labeled line and the top set of screws is labeled load. The wires going to the line side are turned off by the GFCI receptacle the ones on top are controlled by the GFCI recepacle. If you wire them together and just put one set of wires in the GFCI then any outlets downstream won't be GFCI protected.

If you read what I wrote I said he may need to add gfc outlets because he would lose the protection. The fridge does not need to be gfi protected, any recept 6' or less from the sink does.

 

[sissy kathy]

If you read what I wrote I said he may need to add gfc outlets because he would lose the protection. The fridge does not need to be gfi protected, any recept 6' or less from the sink does.

Yeah I edited while you posted.

 

[254 stringer]

Yeah I edited while you posted.

I looked up the code and I am wrong. In my area we are still using the old code rules but now every recept serving the counter top needs to be gfi. The fridge doesn't need to be but only if the plug is behind it and you can't plug counter top appliances into it.

 

[sissy kathy]

I looked up the code and I am wrong. In my area we are still using the old code rules but now every recept serving the counter top needs to be gfi. The fridge doesn't need to be but only if the plug is behind it and you can't plug counter top appliances into it.

I always made sure that outlet was in the middle, or blocked out enough that it wasn't an issue. Don't feel bad lots of places haven't adopted some of the newer code. Some of it is FLAT STUPID; like requiring the lighted switches for the steps.

 

[DWBass]

Get an electrician in there and have them fix the wiring. There's no reason a 16 year old home should have incorrect wiring. How did it pass inspection? See if he can separate some of the outlets and add another breaker. Shared outlets in a kitchen can be a nightmare. Toaster, microwave, fridge, coffee maker, stove/oven all on the same breaker? I had to do it in my old home. I still can't run the toaster and microwave at the same time. The circuit trips. So I just don't.

 

[samson3382]

OP here, still kicking. Did some more digging, found two disconnected grounds on that circuit in addition to what I found earlier. As stupid as it sounds, it appears the wire nuts were too small, (yellow). Intermittent connections. I replaced them with red fatties that I couldn't tug out.

I pulled the first outlet, put that where the GFCI was, and put a (new) dummy proof GFCI first on the circuit. Seems to be in order now, GFCI operates properly.

I was looking at $11 analog multi-meters today at Home Depot, at my level the readouts might as well be Japanese..
I'm a hands on guy but at the same time new knowledge is scary. I've only got so much real estate.