With separate preamps? Or preamp for piezo and none for mag? I know that mixing piezo and pre in the same circuit is a PITA. Would be very cool though to have separate outputs to different amps or to a two-channel rig like an LM3/LMT, etc.
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Show Us Your Rob Allen Basses Part II
- Thread starter Mark Wilson
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Mag = passive
Pre for piezo
Two totally separate outloop loops, volumes, tone shaping, etc.
Two different output jacks.
So I could run both at the same time, or just one or the other. I'll be able to use my B-15, B-18, or Polytone and have both running into separate channels.
good lord. I now have 2 Rob Allen Deeps. Maybe I really am worse than you guys? Somebody post something really custom and off the hook asap!
But onto more relevant stuff. The Basses are quite different. Both are 34" scale.
Deep 5 (koa neck, ebony FB, E-C) = brighter, more articulate, sharper attack
Deep 4 (mahogany neck, cocobolo FB) = bassier, wooly, big swell
EDIT: Quick Flash Shot.....
DEEP TROUBLE:
But onto more relevant stuff. The Basses are quite different. Both are 34" scale.
Deep 5 (koa neck, ebony FB, E-C) = brighter, more articulate, sharper attack
Deep 4 (mahogany neck, cocobolo FB) = bassier, wooly, big swell
EDIT: Quick Flash Shot.....
DEEP TROUBLE:
Interesting. I wonder how much of the D5 "more articulate" is due to the longer scale and how much is due to the E-C tuning. I can say that even strung B-G my D5 is very articulate and quick to respond.
The D5 is a 34" scale just like the D4. i'll try to record the two for a comparison. I think it may have more to do with the ebony fb vs. cocobolo. Both sound fantastic.
I just re-joined the Rob Allen club. I just picked up a beautiful 1999 MB2 today. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it's actually a 34" scale. I've pretty much gone back to 34's across the board - so this worked out well.
Does anyone know why Rob switched to using 35"? I'm assuming it was for the tension on the B string but the benefits in this case is seem outweighed by the feel of the E-G on a 34". Really good stuff!
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Does anyone know why Rob switched to using 35"? I'm assuming it was for the tension on the B string but the benefits in this case is seem outweighed by the feel of the E-G on a 34". Really good stuff!
- Alder body
- Cocobola fingerboard
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Sweet bass. Interesting to see the ivroid binding - he doesn't do that very much (if at all) any more.
I think the switch to 35" is largely due to the B. The La Bella strings don't have a high tension feel compared to regular round wounds, and I think that it is tough to consistently get a good sounding B with the 34" scale and that construction/string mix. He does shorter scale lengths in 5-strings if they are strung E-C. Since the La Bellas are fatter and his basses tend to have tons of bottom end, I think the D and G don't suffer from the longer scale length.
Funny, but since getting the Deep5, I've converted all to 35" scale, with my last 34" scale bass leaving soon. Nothing but 35" and 30". We'll see how that goes...
I think the overall tone and build of the LaBella strings is why he does it. IMHO, the B sounds too great to even think about messing with it. I agree that the D and G aren't suffering whatsoever. A c string sounds great, too.
The one on the left has a sick top - pictures really don't do it justice. Plus the grain on the pickup cover...yikes.
Forgive me though, for I have sinned. Will see this tomorrow (not a RA). Hopefully I'll dig it...
Forgive me though, for I have sinned. Will see this tomorrow (not a RA). Hopefully I'll dig it...
Thanks! As Todd/Nostatic said, the top on the D4 really doesn't show well in the pic. Its color changes from golden to olive depending on the light.
Totally makes sense. I think for me personally, since I'm playing my Sadowsky's almost exclusively, it's ideal from a finger/muscle memory standpoint to have a 34" fretless.
Just curious, when did Rob switch to 35"'s and what other changes has he made over the years? Mine is a 1999 model. What has changed since?
Has the bridge spacing stayed the same? I was hoping it was 19mm but unfortunately it's 23/32nds. Not quite 18mm but slightly narrower than I prefer. I like the bass enough though that I can make it work.
Also, has anyone removed their thumb rest? I'd like to remove mine but I'm worried about damaging the finish in the process. It's held on with regular white Elmers glue -- so I imagine I could try and pry it off but not sure if there's a better way.
JC
Play it or sell it. If you think 34" scale and 19mm are absolute necessities, you've spent way too much time on TB.
My thumbrest (on the previously-owned D4) was actually held on by doublestick tape. Felt solid but came off no problem.
Be careful if its Elmers wood glue (bond could be tougher than you think). Send a note to Rob. it may just take some gentle heat from a heat gun on low.
JX... Your myrtle Rob Allen is one of the most beautiful bass guitars on this board. That's probably the closest thing to my "dream bass" I've ever seen.
I've got to stop peeking at these Rob Allen threads....
I've got to stop peeking at these Rob Allen threads....
I actually got away from Sadowskys due to the 19mm spacing - I just don't like it. Maybe too many years of playing Zons but I never could get comfortable with the 19mm on a 5, and it may have contributed to some tendonitis problems. But of course showing that the body can/will adapt to things, after playing my RAs for awhile I found the 17mm on the Zon a bit too tight and on faster passages especially my hands would get a little off. Seems that 18mm is "just right" and both the D5 and Mouse are that spacing. I think the 23/32 has been his spacing all along though the S4 is a bit wider. Not sure on the switch to 35".
um, yeah... Very helpful...Not sure what your point is. I've played long enough to know what my preferences are. I don't think I said anything about them being hard and fast rules or "necessities."
Thanks very much. It plays beautifully and sounds fantastic. It's exactly what I had in mind when I decided to revisit my early semi-hollow roots - full, rich, and luscious tone.
My MB-2 is, to me, a cross between a Solid 4 and Deep 4, being fretted and with a Solid 4 pickup. It's the best playing and most versatile bass I've ever owned.
Here's the whole gang all in a row.
MB2 5 Maple (35")
Mouse Old (re-used) Brazilian Rosewood
Deep 5 Koa (34")
Deep 4 Maple (34")
MB2 4 Walnut (Epoxy FB by HG Thor)
An excess? Maybe, but I play them all and each one is quite different from the others.
THE BIG QUESTION: What next? Fretted hollowbody? Solid? A "Spade2You Edition" custom? A JXbass-style hybrid? A NoStatic nest of Mouses?
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MB2 5 Maple (35")
Mouse Old (re-used) Brazilian Rosewood
Deep 5 Koa (34")
Deep 4 Maple (34")
MB2 4 Walnut (Epoxy FB by HG Thor)
An excess? Maybe, but I play them all and each one is quite different from the others.
THE BIG QUESTION: What next? Fretted hollowbody? Solid? A "Spade2You Edition" custom? A JXbass-style hybrid? A NoStatic nest of Mouses?
I love the streaked fretboard on the MB-2 5 and of course the top on that Mouse is just sick.
I vote fretted Mouse, though if you can play the fretless Mouse in tune then it isn't that much of a difference. Frets do give you a little different attack though.
I think I'm going to top out at 3 - Deep 5, fretted and fretless Mice. I may drop down to only one Mouse depending on how I fare with the fretless version. The other thing on my radar though would be a fretless MB-2 5 w/mag pup and roundwounds. Depends on how my Roscoe experiment goes...
I vote fretted Mouse, though if you can play the fretless Mouse in tune then it isn't that much of a difference. Frets do give you a little different attack though.
I think I'm going to top out at 3 - Deep 5, fretted and fretless Mice. I may drop down to only one Mouse depending on how I fare with the fretless version. The other thing on my radar though would be a fretless MB-2 5 w/mag pup and roundwounds. Depends on how my Roscoe experiment goes...
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