Sire Bass Club!

[Farrin D]

How was your mid control set for the Marcus sound?

Ooh good question, I think I actually had the mids very slightly boosted and the frequency selected right about at the same point.

In the picture, the pickup selector is at center, so if you can compare that to the mid knob it might be helpful haha.

 

[KickingBass]

For some reason the search function isn't helping me here... My stock strings finally died, it was crazy how long they lasted. I liked them very much so I was wondering what gauge they were. Mine is a 4 string. I'm also thinking of trying through body stringing for the first time, anyone think that would help me get a lower action? I've heard it makes zero difference.

 

[DerekW]

The action is determined by raising or lowering the bridge. If you want the action lower, lower the bridge height.

 

[KickingBass]

The action is determined by raising or lowering the bridge. If you want the action lower, lower the bridge height.

Yes I know, I do very precise setups but I'll still get some buzz and I thought that if maybe there's more tension by stringing through the body, I could maybe get a lower action with less buzz.

 

[DerekW]

Yes I know, I do very precise setups but I'll still get some buzz and I thought that if maybe there's more tension by stringing through the body, I could maybe get a lower action with less buzz.

Gotcha, I see where you're coming from.
But no, it wouldn't increase tension.
You'd need a different set of strings perhaps for that.
As far as buzz, neck setup and playing style would make a bigger difference.


Edit: I'm sure someone will disagree with me. But in my logic, the scale length between the bridge in the saddles remains the same regardless, so I don't think it would make any difference assuming you're using the same brand of strings.

 

[jasonmatthews]

Yes I know, I do very precise setups but I'll still get some buzz and I thought that if maybe there's more tension by stringing through the body, I could maybe get a lower action with less buzz.

Where are you buzzing? Do you mean just a buzz somewhere, or like fret-outs in the upper register?

All else equal, more tension will just add relief in your neck, but you won't get more tension going through the body.

 

[jim nolte]

For some reason the search function isn't helping me here... My stock strings finally died, it was crazy how long they lasted. I liked them very much so I was wondering what gauge they were. Mine is a 4 string. I'm also thinking of trying through body stringing for the first time, anyone think that would help me get a lower action? I've heard it makes zero difference.

45-65-80-100 D'addario XL

 

[KickingBass]

Where are you buzzing? Do you mean just a buzz somewhere, or like fret-outs in the upper register?

All else equal, more tension will just add relief in your neck, but you won't get more tension going through the body.

Yeah just buzzing in the upper register. I try to setup the neck to exact Fender style specs. Maybe a low string action requires a different setup? Do you think string through has any benefits?

 

[KickingBass]

45-65-80-100 D'addario XL

Thanks, I'll be more careful to remember next time.

 

[doran.dragic]

Hello everyone. I'll probably be getting my first Sire soon and I have a question.

Is the difference between the Vintage and regular basses based on look only or are they constructed differently?

Thanks for your reply.

 

[TCSS]

Hello everyone. I'll probably be getting my first Sire soon and I have a question.

Is the difference between the Vintage and regular basses based on look only or are they constructed differently?

Thanks for your reply.

From the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] site:

There are quite a number of differences between the V7 and the V7 Vintage. Check it out below:

1. Pickup Set
*Normal V7 pickup set is made with a heavy formvar magnet coil.
Heavy Formvar coil produces a good mid range tone and it feels clean and bright.

*V7 Vintage neck pickup is made with a plain enamel magnet coil.
Plain enamel has a good low mid range which posses a very warm and rich tone.
While we did retain the bridge pickup and is still made with heavy formvar coil.
So when the two mix together, it produces warm lows, a good midrange punch and crystal clear highs.

2. Pickup Spacing
*Normal V7 comes under the 60′ jazz pickup spacing which is a standard favorite among bass players.

*The V7 Vintage has a 70's pickup spacing. The 70's pickup spacing : the bridge pickup is much nearer towards the bridge. Most players found out that the 70's pickup spacing produces a punchier sound. Marcus Miller's original bass has that 70's pickup spacing which is essential to his signature sound.

3. Bridge
*Normal V7 Series does have a heavy saddle mass. (Made with brass)

*The V7 Vintage has a 60's style screw type saddle. (Made with steel)
It is a standard type bridge among basses today.

4. Appearance
*The V7 neck binding is ivory and the inlay is a square white pearloid.

*While the V7 Vintage's neck binding is black and inlay is square black for a more vintage look.

5. Finger board (For Alder Models Only)
*V7 alder model has a rosewood fingerboard.

*While the V7 Vintage model has a hardmaple fingerboard.

Rosewood fingerboard gives out a low to very high sound response. It produces a warm and rich tone.

Maple fingerboard : Strong mid-high tone plus it feels brighter and solid than rosewood which is favored by slap players.

 

[doran.dragic]

From the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] site:

There are quite a number of differences between the V7 and the V7 Vintage. Check it out below:

1. Pickup Set
*Normal V7 pickup set is made with a heavy formvar magnet coil.
Heavy Formvar coil produces a good mid range tone and it feels clean and bright.

*V7 Vintage neck pickup is made with a plain enamel magnet coil.
Plain enamel has a good low mid range which posses a very warm and rich tone.
While we did retain the bridge pickup and is still made with heavy formvar coil.
So when the two mix together, it produces warm lows, a good midrange punch and crystal clear highs.

2. Pickup Spacing
*Normal V7 comes under the 60′ jazz pickup spacing which is a standard favorite among bass players.

*The V7 Vintage has a 70's pickup spacing. The 70's pickup spacing : the bridge pickup is much nearer towards the bridge. Most players found out that the 70's pickup spacing produces a punchier sound. Marcus Miller's original bass has that 70's pickup spacing which is essential to his signature sound.

3. Bridge
*Normal V7 Series does have a heavy saddle mass. (Made with brass)

*The V7 Vintage has a 60's style screw type saddle. (Made with steel)
It is a standard type bridge among basses today.

4. Appearance
*The V7 neck binding is ivory and the inlay is a square white pearloid.

*While the V7 Vintage's neck binding is black and inlay is square black for a more vintage look.

5. Finger board (For Alder Models Only)
*V7 alder model has a rosewood fingerboard.

*While the V7 Vintage model has a hardmaple fingerboard.

Rosewood fingerboard gives out a low to very high sound response. It produces a warm and rich tone.

Maple fingerboard : Strong mid-high tone plus it feels brighter and solid than rosewood which is favored by slap players.

Thanks a lot!
Good stuff, I much prefer the 60's spacing to 70's. I'd still love to read some comparison made by people, who played or owned both. Are you aware of such posters or is there a general consensus on the differences of the basses?

 

[jasonmatthews]

Yeah just buzzing in the upper register. I try to setup the neck to exact Fender style specs. Maybe a low string action requires a different setup? Do you think string through has any benefits?

The Fender setup numbers aren't wrong or anything. Most people consider Fender action to be a little high.

Setting up low action should be fairly simple...

1. Adjust neck relief (truss rod) to almost flat
2. Adjust saddle height at the bridge to as low as you can without buzzing
3. Adjust string height at the nut (the Sires need this adjustment; the nuts aren't cut properly)
4. Adjust intonation

I keep extremely low action on my instruments. If you are fretting out in the upper register it could be a few things. Maybe you don't have enough relief in the neck. Maybe a fret or two has become unseated. Maybe you have a high fret or two and need to level them. Or something else.

 

[KickingBass]

The Fender setup numbers aren't wrong or anything. Most people consider Fender action to be a little high.

Setting up low action should be fairly simple...

1. Adjust neck relief (truss rod) to almost flat
2. Adjust saddle height at the bridge to as low as you can without buzzing
3. Adjust string height at the nut (the Sires need this adjustment; the nuts aren't cut properly)
4. Adjust intonation

I keep extremely low action on my instruments. If you are fretting out in the upper register it could be a few things. Maybe you don't have enough relief in the neck. Maybe a fret or two has become unseated. Maybe you have a high fret or two and need to level them. Or something else.

Yknow, I hadn't thought to check the nut. I dont have any files to work on them myself but now that I'm conscious that the Sire's tend to have an issue with those, I'll measure them. I dont think any frets are unseated but perhaps they need a little leveling, a skill I still dont possess :\. Thanks!

 

[jasonmatthews]

Yknow, I hadn't thought to check the nut. I dont have any files to work on them myself but now that I'm conscious that the Sire's tend to have an issue with those, I'll measure them. I dont think any frets are unseated but perhaps they need a little leveling, a skill I still dont possess :\. Thanks!

Keep in mind the nut adjustment will only be an ever-so-slight adjustment to your action. It'll just feel better in the lower register. I guess to be fair, saying that they're not cut properly is just my opinion, but I'm sure there are plenty of folks who think they're perfect as they are.

I haven't heard of anybody yet with a bad fret job... mine are remarkably well done. There is a huge camp of folks who like to level off the top frets at an angle to allow for even lower action, but my personal opinion is that it's almost never necessary. Related, if you have a lot of basses, you might consider purchasing fret level tools at some point in your life (should cost about $100)... the money you'll save over time is worth it! Really all you need is a leveling block, a three-corner file, sandpaper, some time, and lots of technique.

 

[KickingBass]

Keep in mind the nut adjustment will only be an ever-so-slight adjustment to your action. It'll just feel better in the lower register. I guess to be fair, saying that they're not cut properly is just my opinion, but I'm sure there are plenty of folks who think they're perfect as they are.

I haven't heard of anybody yet with a bad fret job... mine are remarkably well done. There is a huge camp of folks who like to level off the top frets at an angle to allow for even lower action, but my personal opinion is that it's almost never necessary. Related, if you have a lot of basses, you might consider purchasing fret level tools at some point in your life (should cost about $100)... the money you'll save over time is worth it! Really all you need is a leveling block, a three-corner file, sandpaper, some time, and lots of technique.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Asat77]

I am very curious about the difference between the sounds of a Sire fretless bass with maple neck and a fretless with rosewood neck. Did anyone compare them?

 

[Derry Murbles]

Bored at work-

Bought a black PG from WD to replace the red tort on my alder/rw V7 and DAYUM. I find it looks much classier.

I still love this thing.

 

[Matthew Lacey]

I have been looking around the web for a definitive answer to this, but haven't seen one yet.
Are replacement pick guards available from Sire, or is there a know resource that sells a "drop in" replacement pickguard for the Sire V7s?

I'm good with most of the body and neck combos, but I don't like their pick guard choices.

Hopefully I can clear up any confusion on pickguards. Sire has sent out pickguards to those who have had many issues. The only 2 I have seen are mine and one up for sale by jlepre. When I recieved mine, it was the first of it's kind, and I recieved it about a year ago after waiting over 6 months to get a functioning bass. I recieved a crystal silver pick guard. I do not know jlepre's story, but he recieved a crystal gold pickguard.

I did some research and Sire showcased these on their Facebook around November of last year, and planned to start selling them in January of this year. They planned to release crystal silver, crystal gold, and crystal black models, but so far, to my knowledge, only 1 crystal silver pickguard, and one crystal gold pickguard have ever been obtained. Both are apparently meant for the five string models, but have not been tried on a four string, so that compatibility is unknown.

Here is the link to the facebook page, and sire's video on the pickguards:

You can also get pickguards from other companies like WD, which might be a better option for those with a four string.

My crystal silver pickguard has already been sold, but jlepre's crystal gold pickguard is still up for sale in the classifieds if anyone wants to buy the only available Sire crystal pickguard.

 

[Derry Murbles]

I have been looking around the web for a definitive answer to this, but haven't seen one yet.
Are replacement pick guards available from Sire, or is there a know resource that sells a "drop in" replacement pickguard for the Sire V7s?

I'm good with most of the body and neck combos, but I don't like their pick guard choices.

I'll chime in on the topic.

I was sent a crystal silver 4 string version (maybe March-ish?) as a courtesy since my tort one had a few minor imperfections. You're more than welcome to it if you want as it may be 1 of 2 sent out.

Like Matt said above, your best bet is an aftermarket company for now. I got my B/W/B replacement from WD for $28 with tax and shipping, and it fit perfect (save for an extra mm or two of space next to the pickup on one side- barely noticeable). Turnaround time was about 2 weeks since they already had a template to match my tracing and didn't need to make a new one.

Edit-pic added