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Sire Bass Club!

What color/wood combination do you own?

  • Bright Metallic Red/ Ash

    Votes: 17 1.6%
  • Bright Metallic Red/ Alder

    Votes: 33 3.2%
  • Natural/ Ash

    Votes: 173 16.7%
  • Sunburst/ Ash

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • Sunburst/ Alder

    Votes: 165 15.9%
  • White/ Ash

    Votes: 86 8.3%
  • White/ Alder

    Votes: 122 11.7%
  • Black/ Alder

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • M3

    Votes: 28 2.7%
  • M7

    Votes: 85 8.2%
  • I'm a heretic - I don't own one yet, but I'll see the light soon enough!

    Votes: 243 23.4%

  • Total voters
    1,039
  • Poll closed .
My Sire Bass Story
<snip>
Then I plugged it in and played it. This bass sounds horrible; I am embarrassed to let other people hear it and after raving about it for almost a year to others about it. I am not saying, "It is not a tone that I favor", the bass that I got will not sustain, give clarity to a note, allow different techniques to work, finger or pick styles are terrible. Slap works alright best out of the three, has terrible overtones and has the noisiest fretboard. Open string notes sound brilliant! The terrible sounds only come from fretted notes. From the first fret to the last buzzes, clicks, and all sorts of bad sounds.
<snip>
Or I could just have a lemon (it happens). Either way I am screwed as I cannot afford to take it to someone and Sire will not do anything until the bass is checked out.

It does sound like a set-up issue... probably bridge and truss rod and maybe the nut too. For whatever reason you got one that really needed a set up. Or it may have left the warehouse OK and then sat in a baking hot UPS truck or high humidity from floods and storms or both for a few days and the wood moved like crazy. Regardless of whether it left their warehouse that way or reacted to the weather during shipping, it is an issue.

Reach out to Sire and find out how things get paid for under warranty and do that or return it and either get a replacement or take your money and look at something else. Unfortunately if you return it, you'll be out shipping costs. Don't putz around though as your window to return the bass is 30 days. If you decide to take it to a repair person, choose a good one (ie, don't take it to your local GC) or you could end up with things being worse than when you started. Perhaps if you tell us where you're located, some folk may have recommendations for good repair people
 
Well, Sire sent the preamp and neck pickup to repair my V9 and the groovy Sire leather strap for being patient.
I'll get them to the tech asap. Should be a snap, they sent the preamp installed in the control plate, knobs and all.
If this takes more than 48 hrs I'm finding a new tech.View attachment 2748850 View attachment 2748851
After getting the new preamp and looking at the pics from the V9 in for repair I noticed the preamps are very different
original cavity V9.png

The original (above) has two circuit boards, the second green cube from the left is the pup blend and suspected culprit in this repair.
The new replacement preamp (below) is a complete redesign, at least mechanically. The left side circuit board is no longer there, the blend knob is now a stand alone potentiometer and the right side now is two circuit boards perpendicular to each other. Hope this one works.
My theory on this is that early preamps were set aside when initially built for the V7s and assigned to the V9 assembly packages for when they became ready, a year or more later.

Feedback from the Sire (TB) community initiated (at least mechanical) changes that we see here i guess. The pup blend on my V9 not only didn't work but it wobbled/wiggled with some added slop. The blend below is more robust with a solid mount to the control plate. Must have been a common complaint.

Your thoughts?

cropped new preamp.png
new pre.png
 
FINALLY had a chance to sit down with my V7. :bassist: Do not regret returning the G5123B at ALL. Will need to make a Neck adjustment. Fret buzz reduction required. WARNING NEWBIE QUESTION. First instrument with the hex nut adjustment at the bridge not the nut. Does Lefty Loosy hold the same for Truss adjustment made at the bridge? (Counterclockwise, i.e. Relief, decrease the bow/straighten the neck and Clockwise, Righty Tighty, increase the bow in the neck, {I try to remember it as the head curving closer to the bridge}) Which brings me to ask...
Of you out there, do you string through Body or Bridge? [from what I've read some say there is no tonal difference. I've read the screw theory and others... makes me think; "how many manufactures give the option of bridge or body strung, how do they deliver and whats the reasoning behind it? I've read they come delivered each way. Is it a cost/time factor versus musical? FWIW]
 
FINALLY had a chance to sit down with my V7. :bassist: Do not regret returning the G5123B at ALL. Will need to make a Neck adjustment. Fret buzz reduction required. WARNING NEWBIE QUESTION. First instrument with the hex nut adjustment at the bridge not the nut. Does Lefty Loosy hold the same for Truss adjustment made at the bridge? (Counterclockwise, i.e. Relief, decrease the bow/straighten the neck and Clockwise, Righty Tighty, increase the bow in the neck, {I try to remember it as the head curving closer to the bridge}) Which brings me to ask...
Of you out there, do you string through Body or Bridge? [from what I've read some say there is no tonal difference. I've read the screw theory and others... makes me think; "how many manufactures give the option of bridge or body strung, how do they deliver and whats the reasoning behind it? I've read they come delivered each way. Is it a cost/time factor versus musical? FWIW]
Hello. Whether at the heel or the nut of the neck, the truss rod nut is right for tight and left for loose. Left bows the middle of the neck away from the strings(less tension on the rod). Right bows the neck up towards the strings(more tension on the rod). I have always thought that through the body puts a little more down force on the bridge, Making it easier for vibrations to transfer back and forth, making the wood more of a factor in the tone, and lengthening the duration of the note (sustain) versus a bridge stringer. Every guitar I have ever played that vibrated well when I played it sounded better to me than the ones that didn't. The kind of wood it is made of also makes a difference, etc. etc. It depends on what kind of sound you want out of your instrument. This could be a whole other discussion on its' own. Top or through.
 
@tb4sbp
Is the height of strings above the pickup polepieces set high or low ? If strings are set up too low (or the pickups too high), there might be nasty vibrations appearing, caused by interacting magnetic forces that pull the strings towards the magnets and prevent them to vibrate freely. This is especially noticeable with powerful magnets like in G&L MFD pickups.
 
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Getting geared back up after a long neurological illness and I'm about ready to jump back in to playing and going to focus solely on bass instead of splitting time and attention with guitar. I've been looking around to see what gear is out there and I'm really interested in a Sire, particularly an M3. They are all sold out right now, and I'm not surprised. They look like some very nice pieces of work. I've got a bit more therapy before I am ready to buy, but I'll be looking hard at one of these.
 
Of you out there, do you string through Body or Bridge? [from what I've read some say there is no tonal difference. I've read the screw theory and others... makes me think; "how many manufactures give the option of bridge or body strung, how do they deliver and whats the reasoning behind it? I've read they come delivered each way. Is it a cost/time factor versus musical? FWIW]

I've always string through the bridge, on the theory that it doesn't seem good to put big right angle bends in the strings. But I know others feel that through the body helps the sound.
 
Most guitars are made with the intent of getting a certain sound. The sound of a note with instant attack or a slower blooming note. A longer sustained note or one that dies out quick. Lots of harmonics or more pure basic note, and everything in between. Almost everything on a guitar can add or subtract from these qualities in varying amounts. The sound YOU like is the sound YOU should chase. Or have one of each to fit the song you are playing. For me, I love to have a guitar (bass or 6er) that the note lasts fairly long. I can mute the note easier than trying to coax more out of a dying note. Personal preference. Strengths and weaknesses. Hence the preference for string through. Most of the time I believe it helps sustain. It can also help the body wood have a little more of a say in the tone - if you want it to. 90% of your audience will probably never know or care about these nuances in tone, but I'm a musical nerd and this IS TALKbass.
 
Getting geared back up after a long neurological illness and I'm about ready to jump back in to playing and going to focus solely on bass instead of splitting time and attention with guitar. I've been looking around to see what gear is out there and I'm really interested in a Sire, particularly an M3. They are all sold out right now, and I'm not surprised. They look like some very nice pieces of work. I've got a bit more therapy before I am ready to buy, but I'll be looking hard at one of these.
I love my m3 very ergonomic, good choice. ;)
 
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Been watching everything I can find on YouTube about Sire basses. Most reviewers seem to agree that Sire is just over-the-top for the price point, which is increasing my interest.

Quick question about the active and passive mode.... Does switching to passive mode bypass the eq and preamp controls?
 
Been watching everything I can find on YouTube about Sire basses. Most reviewers seem to agree that Sire is just over-the-top for the price point, which is increasing my interest.

Quick question about the active and passive mode.... Does switching to passive mode bypass the eq and preamp controls?
Hello. I have a P7, but I believe that all the current Sire basses use the same circuitry - in passive mode the volume, Passive tone(stacked one) and pickup blend control work. The eq controls(high,mid w/sweep, and bass are off, as is the preamp. There is little difference in volume between passive and active with the controls in the neutral position until you mess with the eq. It is a fairly hot preamp when you crank things. Hope this helped.
 
Hello. I have a P7, but I believe that all the current Sire basses use the same circuitry - in passive mode the volume, Passive tone(stacked one) and pickup blend control work. The eq controls(high,mid w/sweep, and bass are off, as is the preamp. There is little difference in volume between passive and active with the controls in the neutral position until you mess with the eq. It is a fairly hot preamp when you crank things. Hope this helped.

Yeah, it did help. Exactly what I was looking for.
 
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Hello. I have a P7, but I believe that all the current Sire basses use the same circuitry - in passive mode the volume, Passive tone(stacked one) and pickup blend control work. The eq controls(high,mid w/sweep, and bass are off, as is the preamp. There is little difference in volume between passive and active with the controls in the neutral position until you mess with the eq. It is a fairly hot preamp when you crank things. Hope this helped.
This ^^^^^^ can be adjusted through a small pot on the PCB. Cannot remember what one. So that passive and active with EQ pots in the neutral position balance in volume exactly.
 
Been watching everything I can find on YouTube about Sire basses. Most reviewers seem to agree that Sire is just over-the-top for the price point, which is increasing my interest.

Quick question about the active and passive mode.... Does switching to passive mode bypass the eq and preamp controls?

I was the same, I spent day and weeks on you tube then I came across this guy, Dennis Michaels
This is just one of his Videos on the Sire.
I played a Music man for 37 years and his videos made me press the button on the Sire and I don't regret it. The Music Man Hangs on the wall now.
 
I was the same, I spent day and weeks on you tube then I came across this guy, Dennis Michaels
This is just one of his Videos on the Sire.
I played a Music man for 37 years and his videos made me press the button on the Sire and I don't regret it. The Music Man Hangs on the wall now.


Thanks for linking this video! I don't remember watching any of his stuff, but I about to go on YouTube and follow his channel. Seems like he is really knowledgeable and has his Sire dialed in.

On the flip side, curse you for linking this video! Because I am broke right now and can't go buy 1 of every Sire!
 
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