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Sire M7 Club

I'll measure my 5er, give me a few minutes....

Edit: I get 1.787" wide side to side, 1.39" center B to center G, both at the nut, and .715" depth from the top of the fingerboard (mine's fretless) to the back of the neck (front to back). The depth gets a little deeper right at the nut, there's a bit of a "volute" thickening due to the angled back headstock (first fret is the thinnest point).

I have a BTB, but it's a 6er, so hard to do a fair comparison.

Thanks for taking the time to measure for me. The nut width is specified on the site (45 mm = 1.77"), so it was the thickness I was interested in. 0.715" = 18.161 mm, so it sound like the neck is very thin. That's good news.

Thanks again.
 
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Thanks for taking the time to measure for me. The nut width is specified on the site (45 mm = 1.77"), so it was the thickness I was interested in. 0.715" = 18.161 mm, so it sound like the neck is very thin. That's good news.

Thanks again.
Yes, it's a very thin neck front to back. I find it very comfortable.
 
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Can anyone comment on how the M7 balances and centers itself when hanging on a strap. With the upper strap button at the 13th fret, I'm concerned that there may be neck dive and that the reach to the first fret, especially on the 35-inch 5-string, may be farther than I'd like.
 
Can anyone comment on how the M7 balances and centers itself when hanging on a strap. With the upper strap button at the 13th fret, I'm concerned that there may be neck dive and that the reach to the first fret, especially on the 35-inch 5-string, may be farther than I'd like.
I don't find mine neck dives and the way it hangs it doesn't really feel any longer I hardly notice the scale length difference - less so than my other 35"ers. The first fret position doesn't really feel longer or like reaching.
 
Thanks for the info. That's good to hear. Balance and reach are very important to me, because my arms are short, and I like to angle the bass a bit more than most people to bring the nut closer to me. I notice that the M7, especially the 5-string, has the bridge very close to the lower strap button, which helps with reach.
 
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Can anyone with a 4-string comment on how the 20-mm spacing feels? I've never played a bass with that spacing. I do notice the difference between my 19-, 18, 17- and 16.5-mm basses, so I'm concerned the spacing may feel awkward and the neck will feel wide.

The nut width is the same as my SR500, so the string spacing at the nut is probably very similar; I'll assume it is identical. The M7's outermost strings are 3 mm further apart at the bridge, so they are 2.25 mm further apart at fret 24, 1.5 mm further apart at fret 12, and 0.75 mm at fret 5. So, it should feel pretty similar for the fretting hand.
 
Thanks for the info. That's good to hear. Balance and reach are very important to me, because my arms are short, and I like to angle the bass a bit more than most people to bring the nut closer to me. I notice that the M7, especially the 5-string, has the bridge very close to the lower strap button, which helps with reach.
Exactly, the bridge is right at the butt of the body, minimizing the reach required to get to the low notes. Playing mine, I feel the slight "stretch" of the longer scale in the fingers (that is, fret position to fret position), but not in the "reach" required of the left arm - I think it hangs such that the first fret is actually as close or closer to the player's body than on most standard 34" J styles basses (including the V7, actually).
 
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bholder has this about right, IMO... the body is smaller, the neck seems to fold into the body closer to your body center than it would if it were a jazz-style, and so the neck/nut isn't too far out, reach-wise... you may slightly notice the extra inch of scale at first in the spacing fret-to-fret at the lowest fret or two, but will quickly forget. I think the 35" scale give s a tighter, more controllable B string since it can have a more normal-feeling tension rather than a floppy B that you sometimes feel on some basses. The added scale length has virtually no affect on its feel and playability, again IMO. The head stock is also smallish so it does not contribute to dive. Neck is thin and fast, it has a more flat-ish fret board so you can get around easily and play on the high end melodically or with chords better, while the longer scale gives you more solidness on the low end.
 
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For sure the M7 will have better reach (and high-fret access) than a Fender-style body. Will the location of the upper strap button (at fret 14 or so) push the nut farther out, compared to a bass with the button at fret 12? I can't decide if it will or won't, since the overall length and center of mass are the same.
 
For sure the M7 will have better reach (and high-fret access) than a Fender-style body. Will the location of the upper strap button (at fret 14 or so) push the nut farther out, compared to a bass with the button at fret 12? I can't decide if it will or won't, since the overall length and center of mass are the same.
I honestly think a bigger difference (in the way it hangs on the strap) than the position of the upper strap button is the fact that the rear strap button is right at the bridge, rather than having several inches of wood in between, as on the V7 and any Fender-style body. Having the bridge so close to the rear button moves the center of balance rightward, bringing the headstock in closer. Probably a combination of the two effects, but it sure hangs nicely! :)
 
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I honestly think a bigger difference (in the way it hangs on the strap) than the position of the upper strap button is the fact that the rear strap button is right at the bridge, rather than having several inches of wood in between, as on the V7 and any Fender-style body. Having the bridge so close to the rear button moves the center of balance rightward, bringing the headstock in closer. Probably a combination of the two effects, but it sure hangs nicely! :)

Agreed. The relative positions of the bridge and lower strap button are critical. This is one problem I have with many of the short-scale basses; the bridge is often 10 cm or further from the end of the body, so the reach isn't much different than on a long-scale bass.
 
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Nice job! I admire you and others who are so good with video/audio sync and video production. Prolly seems a simple matter to you, but it is foreign to me.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment! I studied it a bit in college, but for this video I took the easy way out with an app called Acapella haha. It's a great way to post videos quickly and easily!
 
Question for you M7 owners:

Are you able to get low action on all strings? I hate it when I get a new bass, and am able to get the low action I want on certain strings but not on all due to the design of the bridge.

The bridge on this bass looks phenomenal but looks a bit thick at the base of it and I'm afraid I may not be able to get the action as low as I want it.
 
Question for you M7 owners:

Are you able to get low action on all strings? I hate it when I get a new bass, and am able to get the low action I want on certain strings but not on all due to the design of the bridge.

The bridge on this bass looks phenomenal but looks a bit thick at the base of it and I'm afraid I may not be able to get the action as low as I want it.
My M7 fretless came set up about as low as I like, I have felt no need to lower it further, so not very helpful I'm afraid. Plenty low enough for me.
 
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