Six string spalted maple, fretless, and first build ... kit

[eightyearsapril]

I spent about an hour peeling off the masking tape, and sanding the back of the neck so I could stain it. I had to sand, excessively, the side of the fingerboard where the glueing slid over and covered the tape.

It's not done yet, but I should be able to finish the prep and do a few coats of walnut stain on the back of the neck tomorrow morning.

 

[eightyearsapril]

It took way too long to fully sand the back of the neck. I had to go down to 100 grit sandpaper to get off the remaining masking tape glue. By the time I got it done, I had to give up my work bench (the dining table) for lunch. So, no staining yet today. Maybe later.

This is the one step of the bass build I have experience with, as I refinished the back of my test bass with the red mahogany stain (pictures back on page 2 or 3 of this thread). Two or three coats should be enough, and then a half-dozen to ten of tung oil.

 

[eightyearsapril]

I put down two coats of the walnut stain on the back of the neck today and I'm not happy with it. I only have a picture from the first coat, but you can sort of see the unevenness on the neck. I can't explain the different tones on the headstock.

I tried to balance the tone with the second coat, but wasn't successful. I'll decide tomorrow if I'll keep it or sand it off.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Maple does not stain evenly without a pre-stain conditioner. You can get minwax wood conditioner (basically an oil-based sealer) at Home Depot.

For best results, consider TransTint dye in Dark Walnut. Dilute significantly, like 3 or 4 drops of dye per tablespoon of water, and rub in circles. Let it dry and repeat until the desired color is reached. You can get transtint at any Woodcraft or Rockler store.

 

[Gully Foyle]

Dye definitely the way to go

 

[eightyearsapril]

Maple does not stain evenly without a pre-stain conditioner. You can get minwax wood conditioner (basically an oil-based sealer) at Home Depot.

Ironically, I have this, sitting around for use with the spalted maple top. I didn't think to use it with the neck.

Some sanding later, the imperfection of it has started to appeal to me.

I think I might keep it. It's not what I intended, but I think it's unique and will work well with the rest of the build. (If I keep it, I'll do a small touch-up of the unstained spot on the top of the headstock, however.)

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Ironically, I have this, sitting around for use with the spalted maple top. I didn't think to use it with the neck.

Some sanding later, the imperfection of it has started to appeal to me.

View attachment 601615

I think I might keep it. It's not what I intended, but I think it's unique and will work well with the rest of the build. (If I keep it, I'll do a small touch-up of the unstained spot on the top of the headstock, however.)

Nice. Dye is a slower, but much more controllable way to go.

I don't much care for the rustic/splotchy look, so I would sand that off and start over with dye.

 

[eightyearsapril]

I don't much care for the rustic/splotchy look, so I would sand that off and start over with dye.

I don't, either, but I think it'll look good under a tung oil finish.

I did a touch-up coat at lunchtime to fix the blank spot on the headstock, and to try to even up the stain where it appeared lighter. It fixed the blank spot, but didn't do too much to even things up. Unless I have a change of heart, I'm going to sand it smooth and prepare it for finishing tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Gully Foyle]

the dye really is very easy to get fantastic results with, and I think you should consider it, as it seems you are accepting something that might be suboptimal in order to keep moving forward, which I understand.

Thanks fir the thread, very interesting

 

[eightyearsapril]

I wanted a walnut stain on the back of the neck, to match the same stain I'm using on the basswood body (the spalted maple top will be blue). While the application wasn't what I anticipated, I'm keeping it and proceeding.

As I feared, a good amount of the stain leaked under the tape on the headstock, leaving me with this:

As the spalted veneer is so thin, I didn't dare try to sand it off. I spent a half hour wiping it with turpentine, but I didn't erase it completely.

I realized, however, that the remaining stain kinda sorta will add to the spalt, so I decided to go for broke and put on the first coat of the blue stain on the headstock. It's not quite what I envisioned, but I like where it's going.

I'll put on one more coat later this evening.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

I really love the spirit you have displayed throughout this whole build. Almost every single time something unexpected comes up you roll with it and turn what might be a disaster into a feature. You have consistently inspired me, and I applaud you! Great job man!

 

[eightyearsapril]

I really love the spirit you have displayed throughout this whole build. Almost every single time something unexpected comes up you roll with it and turn what might be a disaster into a feature. You have consistently inspired me, and I applaud you! Great job man!

Thanks! Truth be told, my plan B for the headstock was to glue on a veneer, leftover from the fretline project.

Anyway, here's the second coat. It looks a lot more blue in person. I'll decide in the morning if I'll do a third.

 

[eightyearsapril]

I put on the third coat this morning. I think this will be the last one. I need to go back to my waterslide labels and print the one for the headstock. There isn't much room on the headstock, once I account for the tuners and strings, but I think it'll fit between the E-A-D-G string tuner holes.

 

[eightyearsapril]

I'm in a slight holding pattern on finishing the neck, as I'm working with my friend to redesign the headstock logo. Hopefully he'll get back to me this weekend.

I bought a Minwax Dark Walnut stain marker yesterday, and used it to do the fine work of staining the bit of the maple/mahogany/maple/mahogany/maple sandwich that's on the front of the neck, below the fretboard:

It dried evenly, and mostly covered the glued-tape you see at the edge of the fretboard. I'm not sure about removing it, I kind of like the character it gives.

Before I seal the back of the neck with tung oil, I'm tempted to use the marker to enhance the mahogany stripes, but I haven't decided yet.

 

[Hopkins]

I'm in a slight holding pattern on finishing the neck, as I'm working with my friend to redesign the headstock logo. Hopefully he'll get back to me this weekend.

I bought a Minwax Dark Walnut stain marker yesterday, and used it to do the fine work of staining the bit of the maple/mahogany/maple/mahogany/maple sandwich that's on the front of the neck, below the fretboard:

View attachment 603036

It dried evenly, and mostly covered the glued-tape you see at the edge of the fretboard. I'm not sure about removing it, I kind of like the character it gives.

Before I seal the back of the neck with tung oil, I'm tempted to use the marker to enhance the mahogany stripes, but I haven't decided yet.

Just a little constructive advice.

You have not done nearly enough sanding to start finishing yet.

 

[eightyearsapril]

You have not done nearly enough sanding to start finishing yet.

That's true. I have done a good bit on the back of the neck, but not on the headstock yet. I may do more staining on the back of the neck, and, of course, will sand more after that before finishing.

My friend has promised me the revised headstock logo by the middle of next week, so I have time.

 

[eightyearsapril]

So, I went to sand the headstock with 600 grit sandpaper, and I think I was a bit too aggressive...

I sanded it back with a heavier grit, and put a few fresh coats of the blue stain. When I sand again, I'll use a lighter touch, and perhaps a lighter grit.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

I am loving the "rustic" feel of the stain on the neck and head stock.

 

[eightyearsapril]

Here's the restained headstock. I could do more to make it all blue, but the body is going to have some variation due to the spalt, so I'm going to keep it at this.

Light sanding will be done when I get the redesigned logo, which looks similar to the Zhe logo I put on the fingerboard, but with text inside it. My friend is going to alter it so the text is curved upward on the top of the headstock, above the A and D tuners, with the round brand logo in the upper right tip of the headstock.

 

[eightyearsapril]

Since idle hands are the devil's playthings, I sanded back the stain on the back of the neck and re-stained it while waiting for the revised headstock logo.

The sanding didn't get rid of all of the stain, but I decided to go ahead, anyway, sort of liking the imperfections.

I applied the stain with the Minwax touch-up pens, as I had more control with them. The outside wings is with the Dark Walnut stain, the middle bit with Early American, and the mahogany stripes with Red Mahogany.

​

It's not perfect, but looks a lot better than the previous stain job, so I'll take it.

I plan to meet my wife's uncle this coming weekend to finally route the battery box cavity, and then I can finally work on the body again.