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Slap Bass Strings

Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by _aflores_funk, Mar 23, 2013.


  1. Hey guys, so recently I bought some elixir light gauge strings and they were doing great but I had the G string break twice after having the set for about two weeks. After the first time I emailed Elixir and they mailed me a new set very quickly(great service) but after putting on the new set, the G string broke AGAIN after having them on there for just a week! The snap occurred at the bride right on the saddle. I have a Fender American Deluxe Jazz V if that makes any difference.
    Just wanted to know if I'm getting the wrong gauge strings or if its the wrong strings for the style of playing, which I doubt because they sounded GREAT for slap.

    Any comments would be appreciated! Thanks!
     
  2. Baird6869

    Baird6869 RIP Gord Downey. A True Canadian Icon.

    There is likely a burr or something on your saddle.

    I slap a lot and have a very heavy touch... But haven't broke a string in 5+ years. Also, I use light (.040-.120 on my 5ers) strings.
     
  3. Yeah, I'll have to check my saddle then, hadnt thought about that. I was really concerned because I never had that problem with my old strings even though they were like 15$ compared to elixirs 50$
     
  4. Ian_Flash

    Ian_Flash

    Jan 17, 2013
    Sounds like you have a burr on your saddle or an improper break angle over the saddle. Which bridge is on your Am Dlx J 5? Is it the OEM bridge from Fender? Does it string thru-body only or do you have the option of top-loading?
     
  5. I honestly have no idea which bridge it is, it's the stock one that came on my 08 fender jazz. And I string thru body
     
  6. I'll take a picture of the saddle when I get home in a few minutes
     
  7. placedesjardins

    placedesjardins

    May 7, 2012
    Weird, I've never broken a string and I've gone with extra-extra-light gauge so it starts at 0.030
     
  8. placedesjardins

    placedesjardins

    May 7, 2012
    If you titled the thread 'I broke my G-string twice', it would get more traffic.
     
  9. Ian_Flash

    Ian_Flash

    Jan 17, 2013
    Cool. Some Fender USA's used a dual-option bridge that may provide a solution. A pic will be worth 1000 words so I'll look out for it when you get a chance.
     
  10. I was kinda thinking along those lines when I posted lol
     
  11. ImageUploadedByTalkBass1364088115.089826. ImageUploadedByTalkBass1364088171.055392.
     
  12. Ewo

    Ewo a/k/a Steve Cooper Supporting Member

    Apr 2, 2008
    Huntington WV
    Maybe you're pulling the string too hard when you pop on the G string?

    And maybe stringing through the body makes the break angle over the bridge saddle a bit too sharp?
     
  13. Duckwater

    Duckwater

    May 10, 2010
    USA, Washington
    This used to happen to me. Then I finally got some sandpaper and smoothed out my bridge saddles, haven't broken a string since.
     
  14. That's a good point, I'll try stringing over top and see how that goes
     
  15. How often do you sand them? And what grit?
     
  16. crobasster

    crobasster

    Jun 16, 2009
    croatia
    This for sure.
     
  17. Duckwater

    Duckwater

    May 10, 2010
    USA, Washington
    I only had to do it once, but I would recommend doing it a few times a year if you use rough strings. My main bass has a brass bridge and I used a few different kinds, from about 150 to 300 until the saddles were smooth.
     
  18. Ok, thanks for the help!
     
  19. GroovinOnFunk

    GroovinOnFunk Supporting Member

    Apr 30, 2008
    San Diego, CA
    Endorses Cleartone and SIT Strings
    Turn up, lower your action, play softer. Sounds silly, but it really is something you can work on and practice. I've never once broken a string playing, to be honest, so I can't really relate.
    Me, I turn up to the perfect volume for whatever the situation, then I turn up a good bit more and play that much softer. It works for me
     
  20. Ian_Flash

    Ian_Flash

    Jan 17, 2013
    Those Grooves in the saddles were an upgrade introduced in 2008, in addition to a higher mass bridge. The grooves were there to fine-tune the string spacing. The drawback is that the narrow groove "pinches" or "crimps" the string at its' most stressed point which is the break over the saddle. A lighter string/thinner core will be more likely to fail especially with aggressive playing styles. Sanding or filing the saddle is normally a good idea, but ONLY on a single-groove saddle. The best solution would be to replace the saddle with a good-quality retro-fit saddle with a SINGLE groove. Your are supposedly milled brass, so a brass replacement wold be closest to the sound. You can, however, replace ALL the saddles with Steel, Brass or Graph-tec. Go onto Stewart MacDonald and see what's available. Saddles are NOT expensive, so don't try to save money by going cheap. Get ones that are solid-milled (not cast). In the interim, you can use a lighter attack and turn up the gain a bit. If you have the option of stringing through the top, I would try that first. There is a lot less pressure stringing it that way. Also, if it does have this option, you can string just the G and D thru the top and the lower strings through the body. You may get a different response and you may prefer it!
     

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