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So let’s build another bass.

thisSNsucks

I build Grosbeak Guitars and Basses
Commercial User
Dec 19, 2004
4,636
2,952
39
Yonkers, NY
www.grosbeakguitars.com
Disclosures
Grosbeak Guitars
Hi all,

I had a lot of positive response to my last build thread:

So let's build a bass.

So I figured I’d start another thread documenting a new build and a new bass model I’ll be introducing next year.

A few new processes I’ll go over, and a few changes in my build process since last time so this should be fun!

It won’t be a quick build but I’ll likely have bi weekly updates.

99.9% of what I do has been done by others online so I won’t take credit for any cool tricks you might see.

Anyway, let’s get started!
 
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First up, wood:

2 piece alder body blank:

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Neck wood will be flatsawn maple. Fretboard will be either the wenge on the left or the Madagascar rosewood on the right.

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The rosewood is pretty wild looking, but I may save it for a less traditional build.

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Speaking of traditional, all my builds are derived from some classic instrument. In this case, I’m doing a Jazz type bass.

Now if I only had a Jazz bass laying around. Oh wait...

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I think this ‘66 Jazz will do! Funny enough I had this restored several years ago by TB’s own JohnK_10 before I was a builder myself.

Honestly John did such a fantastic job if I was in the same position again, I’d still send it to him!

Since the last build thread, I’ve expanded my shop into my underground dungeon, I mean basement.

I save the heavy woodwork for the (non heated) garage.
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Anyway, we have our template material. MDF. I hate this stuff. I was using plywood for my templates to avoid mdf at all costs, but I do find I get cleaner routes with mdf.

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And our Jazz Bass is disassembled enough to get what I need traced to make some templates.

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There’s an amazing thread on the tdpri forum by Gil Yaron who shows how he makes templates of a 1960 J from the original.

I’m only using this jazz bass as a guide as the neck and body will be my own design when it’s all said and done.

But more on that later!
 
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Ok, so I have my sketch of the design for this one but I need to do it full scale to make sure it all looks good.

Starting with my jazz bass body. Some painters and double sided tape on the back.

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Stick it down.

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Trace. I have this compass with a perfectly flat side so I went with that. A half pencil would do the trick too. Regular pencil not so much since the lead is in the middle.

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Mark some lines. Bridge location and centerline using the bridge mount and pickups as reference. Everything gets double checked later.

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Traced!

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And square. Cool!

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I take a few more details from the jazz bass. Neck pocket length.

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Now I can locate the neck and pickguard to the full scale tracing.

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The fender has 20 frets, mine will have 22. I mark where the 12th fret is for reference.

I use my typical bass neck toes how my 22 fret neck will sit on the body.

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Not a whole lot of access. Not to worry. I borrow my P type template just to get the heel contour marked.

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And then erase what doesn’t look like my drawing, and add what does...

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I was always good at art class...

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It is a jazz bass, a bit more modern. Traditional single coils will work with the designe but I’m going with a set of Aguilar Super Singles. Little mock up.

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And a few more lines drawn for the control cavity and battery box (this one may or may not end up with a preamp. We’ll see.

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Next up, cutting up some of this dreadful MDF and getting the body templates made up.

Still need to do the neck template. As well.

More to come!
 
Thanks for the kind words guys!

Neck template time.

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First up, I draw a centerline square to the end of the mdf. My heel ends are flat so it saves me a little work if I use the flat end of the mdf.

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Then I’ll use my p-bass template to get me started.

Line up the end.

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I trace the Pbass template and mark out where the nut and 12th fret go.

This is a jazz so the nut needs to be 1.5”. Just measure out .75” out from each side of the centerline where the nut goes.

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Then I tape down my jazz neck and line up my jazz template just to get the tuner layout.

It’s a little tricky but with some straight edges and squares, this is how I line it up.

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And the. Using the appropriate size forstner bit. Mark the tuner holes.

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I trace the jazz headstock too just to see. The center of the tuning machine should be 1” from the headstock edge. My jazz was pretty close but a hair off in spots. It’s been refinished a few times.

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But the tuning holes are all equal.
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Cleaned up. Ready to cut.

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Ok so pretty straightforward here.

Cut on bandsaw.

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Attached to my p-bass template to copy alignment holes only. Not tuner holes.

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Route the heel.

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Shimmy to our drawn lines for jazz nut width

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Routed.

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Still needs a little sanding/refining.

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Then since the headstock is done I shoot over to the drill press to drill for our tuner mounting holes. I rig up a quick fence to keep them all 1” from the edge.

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Little more sanding.

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Measurements checked. A hair over 1.5” but that’s ok. Leaves me a little room when sanding.

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Then mark all the lines I’ll need.

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Good.

Next up I drill out my mounting holes and glue in some washers. I mount all my templates with screws and tape.

And I soak my mdf template edges with superglue so they stay tough and my router bits don’t press in and wear out the template prematurely. Makes them look messy though lol.

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So I got some work done for my body templates.

Cut out my drawing.

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Sanded smooth on the ROSS

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Smoothed the outline.

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I drilled the heel holes and some alignment holes and then used that to make the outline template on 1/2” mdf.

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Then a routing template.

Pickups first.

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Tip: if you are routing 2 equal sized templates and you have a perfectly square template.

Route your first cavity and then before you remove it, tape down a piece of straight edge on one side. Move the template along the straightedge. Both routes will be aligned perfectly.

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That looks good. Now I’ll copy this over to make a routing template.
 
Routing template roughed in.

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Routed my pickup holes and then checked my alignment with my body outline template.

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Looks good!

Now I’ll route the neck.

line it up to centerline and put some straight flat pieces around the neck.

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That works. There’s a little play but I always leave my necks a little oversized so we’ll hand fit everything on the real instrument later.
 
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And now for the pickguard.

I cut it from the original drawing and smooth it out. As you can see my original sketch is now in shambles lol.

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And now the actual template gets made from that.

Rough cut and routed but I ignore the pickup and neck routes.

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Next up I mark where my screws will go. My compass is handy to layout some lines.

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And drilled (forgot to take pics)

Then I attach it to my routing template and screw it down.

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Then Route to that.

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That ensures perfect fit from body routes to pickguard routes.
 
Thanks guys!

Happy new year everyone!

I cut out the body blank this morning.

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Kept it close to the line and then lightly sanded the edges that looked a little “grabby.”

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Slapped on my routing template with screws and tape and hit the router table.

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Let’s take a moment to appreciate the finish my Whiteside spiral but left on this piece of alder.

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Nice!

Transfer some lines from the template and then draw those on the top of the body for our center line.

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Before I route the top I’ll drill my neck mounting holes. Prevents blow outs after the neck pocket is routed.

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Then flipped it over to hog out my routes and drill my control holes.

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Which made me realize, I still need to make a rear cavity routing template!

We’ll do that later, I’m in a groove here!

Set my depth for my router. Once I zero the bit to the body I use an appropriate sized drill bit to set the depth.

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Routing done! Had to switch from a 1/2” bit to a 3/8” to clean up the pickup corners. I use the stewmac template bits which I think are Whiteside as well.

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I’ll either do round overs or figure out the rear control cavity next.
 
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