Solarez test build. Okoume Pbass

[Matt Liebenau]

That kind of lends credence to my entirely unscientific theory as to why Rickenbacker has had problems with clearcoat adhering to the color coats below. They use a UV activated paint for both color and clearcoat, but it's almost entirely the opaque colors they are having trouble with. My theory was that the color coat isn't fully curing under UV light, but the clearcoat does, so you have a hard finish over a slightly soft and not fully cured colorcoat, so under screwed-down parts like the bridge and other hardware, the colorcoat separates from the clearcoat. Do they have anything like a list of finish materials you can overcoat with Solarez? I've been using water based Varathane Ultimate, but finding it doesn't dry as hard and scratch resistant as I'd hoped.

There may be a list, I have not seen it and have not tried the SolarEZ over anything just as a grain fill / bass coat. It’s definitely great for that although the end grain took noticeably longer to cure then the rest. Presumably because it soaked up more.

Varathane and Createx paint seem to work fine over SolarEZ, if that helps anyone out.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

View attachment 3991386

Yesterday, got a better brush.
The makeup pads allow THIN coats, and smooth.
For the wet coat today, thicker, I used the new brush MUCH BETTER.
Sanded back, fixed a couple drips.
Wet coat, and let rest to level out for 1/2 hour (now). In the dark, no airflow garage

 

[Gilmourisgod]

If it self-levels enough to not need a spray application, that would be ideal. I don't love spraying in general, but I also don't love endless level sanding. The best I could achieve with the Varathane Ultimate was what I'd call "medium orangepeel". Took a while to level it it, and I sanded through a couple times and had to re-do the color coats. Panful.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Here's a couple low angle shots.
I will likely do another coat. Just because. My brush skills are lacking .
It levels out nicely and the surface is super shiny. We're it not for my -$#@&+$ brushing it would be more level. Let it cook in the sunlight for 1/2 hour since the coat is thicker.
Oh and it's 85f today.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

That looks at least as level as my crappy spray jobs, gotta try this stuff!

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Hard blocked for a more level surface with 800 grit and coated again.
I'm thinking higher grit than 320 is not needed. It self levels with almost no shrinkage.
And is smooth and mirror like shine.
We're it not for a couple bubbles and fly landing points it could be assembled as is . Win!

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Solarez would be killer for chip repair.
Dab on take it in the sun , level and buff, one hour, done.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Hard blocked for a more level surface with 800 grit and coated again.
I'm thinking higher grit than 320 is not needed. It self levels with almost no shrinkage.
And is smooth and mirror like shine.
We're it not for a couple bubbles and fly landing points it could be assembled as is . Win!
View attachment 3991797

Want to stress this . Not sanded or polished. Just Solarez being awesome.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Successful test!!

Got side tracked with other tasks.
I level sanded. Really not bad .
A few drips (bad technique) a couple pits (toothpick with solarez drip fill)
Used the hardblock again and found it to be level for the most part , a few pools at the edges.
This stuff can go on thick, or thin.
The thin coat ( makeup sponges) is very useful for the grain fill, and the base coat.
One thick coat following would be sufficient to equal several coats of lacquer.
I honestly over did the coat number (4)
As this was a practice piece to see what would work, and due to a couple faux paux on my part.

This will be my go to clear coat from here on out

*Key lessons learned:
Gloss coat: Let it rest to level for at least 15 minutes . 30 second full sun exposure. Return to shade for 1 to 2 minutes. Then full exposure. For 10 plus minutes . If you don't a bubble can be captured.

The product is the viscosity maple syrup at 80 degrees fahrenheit . If you
Want it thinner? Warm it in the microwave, or in a hot water bath up to 130 degrees per the MFG. I'll try this next time!

I learned a lot. I know that I really like it not being smelly or toxic.
I like the end results a THICK coat can be built easily.

It will be significantly cheaper and quicker than rattle can.
Would still be good if I had a spray gun and booth.

@Gilmourisgod .
If you wanted a tint, I think that should work. Opaque? No go. As you suppose it's likely part of the bubbling issue with Ric opaque finishes.
If I was going opaque , I'd color with standard finish even a flat finish, and clear with this afterwards.

This might be a good way to do a flake finish without spray equip:
Seal with Solarez . Lay down metallic base coat.
Wet coat with shellac (sticky cures fast) shake on the monster flake and rattle can on a capture coat of shellac.
Repeat if needed.
Allow to cure a few days.
Lay down a couple thick wet coats of Solarez. Done

 

[cholyoke]

The finish on that body looks great. What is the light source (or sources) in the room you use when you apply the Solarez before taking it outside?

 

[/\/\3phist0]

The finish on that body looks great. What is the light source (or sources) in the room you use when you apply the Solarez before taking it outside?

Standard garage overhead florescent

 

[cholyoke]

Thank you. That is my workshop lighting, too. I am going to have to try this stuff.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

My nightmare with most finishes is dust control. Dust and lint just seem to spontaneously exude from my pores regardless how heroic my attempts are to prevent it. I'm hoping that the ultra-fast cure would help reduce that issue. On Cape Cod, pollen is the major culprit, and it runs through most of the months it's warm enough to paint. Can you just use a UV lamp and do this inside a plastic spray booth to avoid the whole outdoor issue at all?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

My nightmare with most finishes is dust control. Dust and lint just seem to spontaneously exude from my pores regardless how heroic my attempts are to prevent it. I'm hoping that the ultra-fast cure would help reduce that issue. On Cape Cod, pollen is the major culprit, and it runs through most of the months it's warm enough to paint. Can you just use a UV lamp and do this inside a plastic spray booth to avoid the whole outdoor issue at all?

You can. In fact, I believe SolarEZ sells lights for just that. If they don’t, I’m sure they could recommend some.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

My nightmare with most finishes is dust control. Dust and lint just seem to spontaneously exude from my pores regardless how heroic my attempts are to prevent it. I'm hoping that the ultra-fast cure would help reduce that issue. On Cape Cod, pollen is the major culprit, and it runs through most of the months it's warm enough to paint. Can you just use a UV lamp and do this inside a plastic spray booth to avoid the whole outdoor issue at all?

Absolutely, they state the type (wavelength) on the website .

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Links to a few of the Highline Guitars reviews on this stuff, very promising!

 

[bound'n'blocked]

This is one of the better, more understandable tutorials of this stuff I've seen yet. Can you purchase this in stores or do you have to order it?

Thanks

BnB

 

[/\/\3phist0]

This is one of the better, more understandable tutorials of this stuff I've seen yet. Can you purchase this in stores or do you have to order it?

Thanks

BnB

Order it direct.
Hlghline always has good tutorials.

I'm assuming you did not mean this thread.

 

[David Jayne]

Very cool! I work in commercial printing. The inks used are almost always UV cure, all the colors including black. It cures almost instantly but it's applied VERY thinly and the lights are EXTREMELY bright.

 

[bound'n'blocked]

Order it direct.
Hlghline always has good tutorials.

I'm assuming you did not mean this thread.

No, I did mean this thread. I've watched the Highline guy before and have learned from his videos, but sometimes he tends to over-explain. I've found this thread very concise.

BnB