And learn to read actual music while you're at it!
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Reading the dancing honeys can be quite inspiring. Thayres lotsa eyedeers thar too.
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And learn to read actual music while you're at it!
Oops, did I go too far?
What's the best way to break in speakers for metal?
What's the best way to break in speakers for metal?
Yes, they do. That's the entire point of breaking them in. I do so with every driver that passes through my hands because if not broken in the speaker will not work as intended. By all rights it should be done at the driver factory, and if not there by the speaker manufacturer, but break-in takes time, time takes money, and so...![]()
There is a difference between manufacturing inconsistencies in T.S. Parameters between same model drivers and the differences that happen in one driver after a break in period.
These are two different things.
The type of mechanical compliance changes (though some individual parameters may be as much as 5-10%) basically equal out as far as performance goes. Box resonance and compliance has a great influence on the overall result too.
Not to say there is no noticable difference. There IS such a thing as break in from an unused driver. And over long periods of time I think there can be more change. I'm sure you have come across extremely compliant very old or "pounded" drivers. Especially certain surround, cone an spider types. Actually, I always thought that my foam surround Lowthers always sounded better just before they died. But this is not really relevant to the original context.
They actually never stop "breaking in" throughout their entire life cycle. It suspension, like shock absorbers in a car, it's continue to get more compliant..."softer"....as it keeps getting worked. Your speakers that sounded best just before they died were at their softest.
I don't have a bunch of test equipment, I can't tell you exactly how far some drift. I have modeling programs and ears, but I only make speakers for myself. I look at it like this....I'm going to be playing this thing for years, I don't care if takes some hours of playing to break it in. I just don't glue the ports in permanent until I've played and messed with it for a while and reach a point where I'm satisfied. That leaves room for adjustment, etc. as the driver gets the new wore off. Were I making these for the public, yes, I'd run test tones and break them all in, so I know the design is complete and when I take somebody's money for it, they're going to get what I tell them they're going to get.
On average woofers come through with Fs about 10% higher than spec, but 20% isn't unusual. I've got an EV DL10x that specs at 60 (and EV says right on the data sheet that's a 'broken in' figure) that came through at 75, and never went below 70, so in the box it still sits 9 years later.I don't have a bunch of test equipment, I can't tell you exactly how far some drift.
Since you're an engineer, what's your opinion of audio cables needing a break-in period, or biasing the dielectric?
I've never broken in a cab in my life, and I've taken many a cab with brand new speakers to a gig. Put me down for the "not caring" department. Some speakers I've noticed it when they broke in, some I haven't. I can get a good sound with anything so I don't worry about it and let nature take its course.
I would have to guess that after settling by 10% to 20%, further changes in Fs aren't going to make a huge performance difference for a bass guitar speaker. My rationale is simply that most bass speakers go into boxes that are equal to or smaller than Vas, thus the box itself contributes half or more of the effective restoring force on the cone. If the box is small enough, then the box is the suspension. And the air in the box doesn't break in.
I suppose that changing the stiffness of the suspension might alter the distribution of cone breakup modes. But I don't know if that's a noticeable effect in a bass speaker.
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I just don't glue the ports in permanent until I've played and messed with it for a while and reach a point where I'm satisfied. That leaves room for adjustment, etc. as the driver gets the new wore off. Were I making these for the public, yes, I'd run test tones and break them all in, so I know the design is complete and when I take somebody's money for it, they're going to get what I tell them they're going to get.
On average woofers come through with Fs about 10% higher than spec, but 20% isn't unusual. I've got an EV DL10x that specs at 60 (and EV says right on the data sheet that's a 'broken in' figure) that came through at 75, and never went below 70, so in the box it still sits 9 years later.
I got an EVM12L in 1975, spec Fs was 55. It came through at 62, went down to 55 after a normal break in. I used that driver until 1999, at which point Fs had dropped to 48Hz.
Is that a threat?Next we will be talking about burning in cables...
Both are present. Even after the driver has been broken in the suspension will stiffen up after a period of non-use, even one as short as overnight. It has to be flexed for a bit to get it back to normal, though that 'waking up' process takes only a few seconds.Broken in and running in for a short period may be two different things. One suggests ongoing permanent mechanical compliance changes. The other is temporary.
To lump breaking in of cables with breaking in of drivers does a great disservice to those who don't understand why drivers do break in, and cables don't, and serves no positive purpose.Next we will be talking about burning in cables...
I have been playing but not easy with a moaning wife in the house![]()
Next we will be talking about burning in cables...
Would you tune a broken-in speaker to a different frequency?
What would be the reason for this?
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To lump breaking in of cables with breaking in of drivers does a great disservice to those who don't understand why drivers do break in, and cables don't, and serves no positive purpose.