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Speaker farting.

Pretty much all this discussion on HPF's is not correct.

How? I've never used a HPF, so if I am giving bad advice I want to be corrected.

If adding more speakers is not an option, try high passing your signal at 40Hz if you play a 4 string and 60Hz if you play a 5 string.

This makes no sense. Why suggest a HPF below the fundamental of the E string, but not the B? If high passing is the answer, at least do so proportionally.

Because the low B is pure hell on 80% of all drivers. Much better to get the second harmonic IMO.

The fundamental frequency is 30.87Hz. The first harmonic is double that, 61.74hz. The second harmonic is three times that, 92.61. If the cab is giving up much below that, then it isnt doing much for the e string, and I suspect it sucks for bass.

If you do a 40hz HPF on a 5er, your strings will sound uneven because the B is getting only the second harmonic and higher whereas all the other strings are getthing their full range reproduced.

I run a HPF 99% of the time. It is set at 35 hz. It cuts out the frequencies you can't really hear, and protects your speaker from excursion. You still hear the notes balanced (as far as you can get them out of the particular bass you are playing) due to the fact that your brain takes the upper harmonics of all the notes, and fills in the rest. This is made evident by the fact that ever sealed cab starts rolling off the low end between 100 and 150 hz doesnt sound like a guitar cab.
 
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The fundamental frequency is 30.87Hz. The first harmonic is double that, 61.74hz. The second harmonic is three times that, 92.61.
The first harmonic IS the fundamental frequency. A harmonic is the fundamental times an integer - 1st harmonic: F0*1.
61.74 Hz is the second harmonic AKA first OVERTONE. Not sure what cfsporn meant with second harmonic though.
 
You kind of have to be careful with the definition of harmonics, because the term can be used in different contexts... ie. the first harmonic of the fundamental would technically be the second harmonic.

For most applications however, the first harmonic is the same as the fundamental and the second harmonic is the first overtone or 2f.

This is important in circuit design because the spectral distribution of harmonics (distortion) is the foundation of overdriven tones. Same when designing a speaker that's intended to be overdriven
 
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For the cleanest sound the volume should be full up and the gain down. It's the same as a master volume in a guitar amp. Turn the master all the way up and pretend it's not there and the gain is the only volume control.

The way you have it set, with the gain up and the volume set at less than 1/2 it's going to be distorted. Unless that's what you want, but I'll bet a lot of the fartiness is due to that.
 
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For the cleanest sound the volume should be full up and the gain down. It's the same as a master volume in a guitar amp. Turn the master all the way up and pretend it's not there and the gain is the only volume control.

The way you have it set, with the gain up and the volume set at less than 1/2 it's going to be distorted. Unless that's what you want, but I'll bet a lot of the fartiness is due to that.

I would disagree. Your signal/noise ratio is going to suck. Set the gain as high as you can while staying clean, then bring up the master.
 
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Never a problem for me. By keeping the master volume low you're limiting the power amp's output and by turning the gain up you're getting preamp distortion. With only 250 watts you can't afford to spare any power.

I dont think it works that way. The master volume does not limit the available power on tap. It just limits how much you are increasing the signal you are sending the power section. Meaning if you have a hot signal going in to the amp, you can reach its maximum outputs with the master set fairly low, as long as the signal is hot enough.
 
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I dont think it works that way. The master volume does not limit the available power on tap. It just limits how much you are increasing the signal you are sending the power section. Meaning if you have a hot signal going in to the amp, you can reach its maximum outputs with the master set fairly low, as long as the signal is hot enough.
It does. Assuming that it works the same as a master volume in a tube guitar amp (of which there are many different types) the way many of them work is that the master is taking the place of the resistors at the front end of the phase inverter, so the master pot is literally controlling the output of the power amp, or at least the input directly into it.

Another way of looking at it is as if you were using a seperate power amp and preamp. Would you turn down the power that you paid for and turn the preamp up?

Re noise, turning the preamp up to higher levels creates noise and hiss.

There's really no need for bass amps to even have seperate pre and post controls other than to aloow distortion at lower levels. A distortion pedal's a better way to do that since it's switchable. It's basically just a gimmick.
 
It does. Assuming that it works the same as a master volume in a tube guitar amp (of which there are many different types) the way many of them work is that the master is taking the place of the resistors at the front end of the phase inverter, so the master pot is literally controlling the output of the power amp, or at least the input directly into it.

Another way of looking at it is as if you were using a seperate power amp and preamp. Would you turn down the power that you paid for and turn the preamp up?

Re noise, turning the preamp up to higher levels creates noise and hiss.

There's really no need for bass amps to even have seperate pre and post controls other than to aloow distortion at lower levels. A distortion pedal's a better way to do that since it's switchable. It's basically just a gimmick.

Yes I would. The knobs on a power amp attenuate the input signal, they do not limit the output of the amp. If you have enough signal, you can drive the power amp fully even with the attenuators set low.
 
Yes I would. The knobs on a power amp attenuate the input signal, they do not limit the output of the amp. If you have enough signal, you can drive the power amp fully even with the attenuators set low.
This ^^

Can think of the master volume control as an attenuator in front of the power amp. The power amp is going to make whatever it makes. The master volume controls the signal going into it. So, it controls level by adjusting the signal strength going into the front of the power amp, not by adjusting the power coming out the back of it.

Crank the master, and it'll behave like a non-master volume amp.
 
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Can oftentimes get more of the tone/color some particular bass amp is known for by running the input gain higher, keeping a strong signal flowing through the preamp, then using master to control overall loudness.

In PA, often the opposite is done, cranking poweramps to maintain high headroom and adjusting gain/levels going into them.

Neither way of doing it, or something in between the extremes, is necessarily right or wrong, whatever gets the desired result is the "right way".