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Speakers suggestion for a 2x10" cab "5-strings bass" oriented

#61
washburn_it said:
I thought to add braces (20x20 mm made of the same wood of the box) according with the scheme in the pic: in black the braces to "reinforce" the box, in green the braces where the front panel will be glued (one also on the top panel that is not visible).
Are those braces enough? What do you suggest?
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That's the least effective bracing scheme. The most effective connects the side to the side, the top to the bottom, the baffle to the back with 12 to 18mm dowels or 12mm x 24mm to 36mm slats. Six to eight inch spacing works well. Here's an example:

over.gif


Bracing the front panel at the edges does nothing but add extra weight, as corner joints are the strongest part of the cab. Braced in this fashion there's no reason to use more than 12mm plywood, anything thicker won't work better, it's also just extra weight.
 
#63
You're going to have to adjust that bracing scheme a bit to fit your driver layout but yes, it is the best. Search "fEarful" or "show your DIY cabs" on here to find some work in progress build pictures. You can use 1-1/2" or 2" strips placed perpendicular to the panels to end up with what kind of looks like a ribcage inside the cab. Or some combination of that and the dowels shown in BFM's diagram. I'd at least include the front to back dowel braces because that braces the front to the back and the speakers are your source of vibration.

Also hard to tell from your pic but there's one port there. It should be a fairly large port 5-6", otherwise a second one may be needed to keep air velocity down and avoid chuffing/whistling or other weird noises when you put the power to it.
 
#69
Finally speakers and reflex port are arrived so I've completed the bracing.
I attached two pics, I've made the "knuckle test" and the sound is "high pitched" as stated in several threads...well...I hope the sound I've heard is the right one !
Next step: lining up the internal box.

Regards,

Roberto
 

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#70
washburn_it said:
Finally speakers and reflex port are arrived so I've completed the bracing.
Click to expand...
More braces can't hurt. I try to have no more than a 20cm radius between braces and panel edges or each other. On the other hand having a brace closer than 10cm to panel edges/box corners is wasted material.
 
#72
nice cab. it wont hinder you if you dont remove the 3 on the right. as the other guy said being that close to the edge is doing very little "bracing" since the cab side itself is a stronger brace right next to it. i think a good place for a brace is right in the center, (just like a marshall guitar speaker) going from the front to the back of the enclosure with a 2x4. the dowels are nice, but they may actually flex under pressure. i built 2 cabs awhile back, before i braced the second one i did an a/b test, one braced, one not. the difference was more audible than i would have imagined, and i went back and added even more bracing to the design. bill gives great advice, i just had to throw in my 2 cents. lookin good ! johnny a. /staind
 
#74
washburn_it said:
mmmm...then I think I have to change the position of some of them !
How would you brace the box considering that the midrange internal box is already a kind of brace? Would you get rid of the three braces on the right side of the box?
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I wouldn't move anything that's already glued in. I would add more braces to keep the radius between them to no more than 20cm. The midbox does act as a brace, so no need to have braces closer than 10cm from it.
the dowels are nice, but they may actually flex under pressure.
Click to expand...
They won't flex, because there's no lateral force applied to them. Even 1/2" dowels will work, but larger sizes are easier to fasten. The 2x4 braces in your pic look impressive, but 1x1 braces spaced at closer intervals would work better with a lot less weight, and the transverse bracing on the panel faces is all but unnecessary. Assuming that cab is for install no biggy, but I wouldn't want to think about carting it to gigs.
 
#75
I've put some other braces and filled with the damping material (I've used that "grey open cells foam", if my translation into english is right), sealed top and front panels and made a first try with the band.
Well...guys said "good: we can hear you strong and clear" :D
Deep basses sound well defined at my ears, mid frequencies not as "strong" but it's because I didn't buy (and put) the midrange yet.
As for the midrange: my choice is (as suggested) the Alpha6A that is rated for 93.6 dB that is more or less the same resultant sensitivity of the two BP102s.
Then I wonder: wouldn't be better to use a midrange with a higher sensitivity?
 
#76
washburn_it said:
As for the midrange: my choice is (as suggested) the Alpha6A that is rated for 93.6 dB that is more or less the same resultant sensitivity of the two BP102s.
Then I wonder: wouldn't be better to use a midrange with a higher sensitivity?
Click to expand...
I'd be using the Alphalite 6aCBMR or LA6CBMR. There's no reason to use an Alpha 6 if your crossover is 500Hz or higher. The CBMR also makes a separate mid box unnecessary.
 
#79
billfitzmaurice said:
To each their own. They don't sound any less even than the typical MI woofer, and when dispersion and extension is considered they sound a lot better.
Click to expand...

Yep, for sure. Definitely improves room response, and often up close sounds better than large woofer top end. But I think I found heaven when I got a generously stuffed 2+ liter chamber behind the driver.
 

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