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Special Edition Build Off: The Thumfinizenvette

Sorry about those altered values. That was from testing 2 things at once.

First, with the original values the bass rolls off surprisingly high--down 3dB at about 55-60Hz. Of course this depends in part on the pickup model. There are so many 'MM' pickups: MM ceramic and Alnico versions, Nordstrand, Aguilar, Seymour Duncan, Guitar Fetish and many more, so even if the model is 'accurate' it might not match what you are using.

Second, when resistors are in the signal path they add noise--often a significant amount. One way to reduce that noise is to swap in lower value resistors and increased value caps to achieve the same balance. So I was trying lower resistor and higher cap values. In a Sallen-Key filter not every combination is stable. Got to keep the Q reasonably low.

That combination of values drops the bass rolloff to more like -3dB at 40Hz, and give a little boost before the rolloff.

[For my last contribution to this topic I'll go into the fine tuning you might want to do to achieve 'perfection' with this preamp...see below]
 
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In the LTSpice Bode plot on #157 above you can see how outrageously high the resonant peak is, at about 3k. There is a one resistor fix for that, which I consider essential. To tweak this preamp to perfection:
-- C1 sets the resonant peak frequency. 2.2n puts it in the 3K+ range, which is part of its signature sound, and I'd keep it. If you pop and slap and want a brighter 'bite' you can shift the peak higher by reducing C1. 1.6n put it around 4K.
-- Since the resonant peak is so high in that first plot, it tells me that even turning down Treb all the way will not get you to a warm sound. The pickup/preamp needs to load down the pickup and thus reduce that peak. You tune the peak with resistance. If you were using a P-bass style pickup I'd suggest about 150K-250K, but with the low impedance of the MM pickup in parallel it helps to go lower. So in simulations below, you can see the contrast between the original values and my suggested values, which you would tweak to achieve the perfect sound for your rig by experimenting with the one added component, R14, right next to and in parallel with C1. In both simulations we keep Bass and Mid at 0.5, dead center, and sweep the Treb pot full range.
LTmodel4a.jpg

Above is all stock values, not R14 damping/loading resistor added yet, Treb pot even at 0.01 does not really drop treble because the peak is so high.
 
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Now here is a good starting point for you to develop the preamp that sounds like a 3-band MM pre but has manageable treble boost.
LTmodel4b.jpg

The essential feature of this is R14 in parallel with C1. Note how it lowers the resonant peak. Adjust to taste. Also my revised values of the high pass filter to keep the bottom end. If it's too big, go back to the orig values for C7, C10 and R7, R11.

PM me if you want me to send you these files. It takes time to learn how to enter a schematic part-by-part.
John
 
Thanks again Jay for the knowledge dump - it has been really educational and you've solved the two "problems" I was worried about with that preamp! I've got a pcb layed out for it, I'm going to order more parts based on your suggestions and put it in my Ibanez to see how it sounds. That has a MM-ish pickup so it should be a good match.

On the buildoff bass, I started to fit the Bartolini stuff only to realize that the Bart pickups are a little taller than the Nordstrands (from the wiring sticking out below them, basically). The Nordstrands were already slammed to the bottom of the pockets, so the barts basically didn't fit. So I taped the body off and routed the pockets about 3/16" deeper. I would be lying if I said this didn't make me nervous!

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It turned out perfectly though, no big deal. I'm hoping to get a chance to solder it all up later this weekend, and then this will actually be done!*

*(except I just remembered I don't have the truss rod cover fitted yet...)
 
I snuck downstairs a few minutes ago, slammed the whole thing together in a flurry of soldering, plugged it in, and was greeted by the most ungodly distorted crap.

That was a little disappointing. I used to think I was good at electronics. This bass seems to be indicating otherwise.

Anyways - I checked it over and there were no obvious physical mistakes. So I just sat down at the laptop to go over the schematic and compare it to what I built, and I see that R2, which is supposed to be 25.8k, is 25.8 ohms. I ordered the wrong value by a factor of a thousand. :banghead: Sure enough, vref is a fraction of a volt instead of the roughly 4.5v it's supposed to be, hence the distortion.

I think I can scrounge something to make the right resistor value and get this to work...
 
Two 51k resistors in parallel to make a fake 25.5k replacement for R2 and it's alive! And it sounds glorious! And the controls all do what they're supposed to do!

Having series/parallel/single coil modes for the pickups is great. There are definitely a few "I'll never use that" combinations in there. But there are also a lot of nice ones that I wouldn't have been able to get otherwise. Like, series neck and parallel bridge - very punchy music man sort of tone but a little more filled out. And the Bartolini Jazz sounds I know and love are all there.

I've got new knobs coming, they're supposed to be here today. After they're on, I'll do my official writeup. And then when I start working on the MM preamp I'm going to go do a different thread for that. And I already have a few changes in mind for this bart preamp, to shift the filters a bit and give it a bit more gain.
 
This is my submission for the Special Edition Build off
Special Edition Build Off: The Thumfinizenvette

This bass is a mashup - While the design is largely my own, it is heavily inspired by design elements from various Warwick basses - the bridge, the curved body blank, and the general shape at least, which began as an outline of a Corvette on a top set I had bought.

My goal for this bass was to make myself a versatile and easy to play 4 string. Something that felt like my own voice and fit in my favorite styles of music.

Specifications

Body
: Bubinga body with some gentle butterfly wing figure with figured Madrone top. I chose the Madrone because I wanted something with a little more color and character than figured maple. I like the straight, tight grain lines in the Madrone, it has a character very similar to most topwoods used in acoustic instruments - yet it also has a gorgeous flame figure and a really rich tan/brown/pink coloration. It's subtle but beautiful. And who doesn't like figured bubinga? Such a great color and depth!

Neck
: Laminate of Ovangkol and ziricote with thin maple veneers to help the stripes pop. Neck is J bass width but a fairly deep and round profile - I like a narrow neck that fills my hand, I feel that many narrow necks on mass market instruments feel too small.

Finger Board: Spiderweb ziricote. My first time using this. I have a bunch more of it. It's gorgeous, hard to show in pictures but the dark vein lines give it a lot of character. In terms of workability, the ziricote looks/feels exactly like ebony, except maybe a little easier to deal with.

Finger board radius: 20". My first 20" radius, nearly everything I build is 12". I like this flatter shape and I plan on using it more in the future.

Scale Length: 34"

Tuners: Generic Gotoh knockoffs

Bridge
: Older-style Warwick 4 string I had bought used.

Bridge Spacing: I don't remember! I'll have to measure and fill in here later.

Pickup: I had originally put Nordstrand fat stacks in it. Great pickups, but not quite the character I was looking for. I swapped them for Bartolini BC42J pickups, since I'm a sucker for Bartolini's tone.

Electronics: I started with a DIY preamp that had been designed by member @Ripthorn. That was a great project and taught me a lot about preamp design - I've done lots of other hobby electronics work, but never a bass preamp. I ended up branching out and building a few other preamps based on other schematics I'd found. The "final" design that's in the bass right now is basically a DIY copy of the Bartolini NTMB with a few parts values changed to get the results I was looking for. I'm very happy with this design but I plan on continuing to tweak a few different preamp designs, and trying them in other instruments I own.

The preamp is three band, and I also have volume and a miniswitch for a pickup selector. All 4 pots are push/pull - so I can coil split either pickup and I can also switch between series and parallel for each pickup. This gives a ton of possible combinations (I'm not even sure I've actually tried them all yet) and I can find a bunch of different voices.

Finish: Wiped on satin oil based poly with wax on top.

Strings
: I have a mix of a set of D'addario nickel wound and Fender nickel wound strings on there right now. I had started out with the D'addarios but the E string was too long to avoid getting wraps at the tuner post so I put an old Fender string on for the E. I have a new set of Fender 7250's that's going on soon.

Weight
: 10 pounds and 0.4 ounces. That's what I get for choosing dense woods!

Some photos:

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Upside down (aka left handed) pickups!

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And just for all those of you who were following along the whole process, the still-to-be-addressed unintentional lower bout strap hole:

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And for those of you who followed the "I'm obsessed with picking/matching straps with new instruments" sub-plot, here's what I ended up with. A diamond stitched quilted leather strap from D&A. This is my first "beefy leather" thick padded strap, I normally gravitate towards less substantial woven straps. At first this felt a little massive and uncomfortable, but I've gotten used to it and I love it.

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And that's it!

I enjoyed this build, it involved some new techniques for me (router jig to carve the curved body, DIY preamp). It's easy to play - the body shape and parts layout gives good playability in terms of having anchor points and good reach around the strings - my hand nestles down next to the neck pickup really well for slapping, and the strap buttons are well located to help this balance and hang right. The neck fills my hand nicely but has the small width I like, and the flat fingerboard feels great and is easy to play. Overall a very successful build that I'm really happy with!
 

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Looks great, and that neck I'd just beautiful. I really like how nicely those woods play together. :thumbsup:

I can't help but notice the control knobs are in close proximity to one another compared to some designs, what's that about? (Not critical, just wondering) :D
 
I thought I'd post an update here. This bass has been probably 90% of my playing time since I completed it. Needless to say I have been very happy with how it turned out.

And a big change recently. I've been winding guitar pickups for a while, but recently decided to make some bass pickups from scratch. The gory details are documented over in the Magnets & Copper Wire: A Pickup Building Thread thread if anyone is interested.

These are split coil humbuckers, basically a P format pickup squished into a soapbar shape. They have steel blades and a bar magnet underneath. I was trying for a "hi-fi" output, meaning - to preserve the natural tone of the bass as much as possible and send a "complete" wide spectrum signal, instead of a signal that's shaped to mimic a specific tone. I like this approach, personally, because I feel like it gives you a full palette of tonal options, and you can add/subtract as needed with EQ. I'm really happy with how they turned out - they are bright and well balanced and you get a very recognizable bridge/neck tone without being flavored otherwise. And I think they look really good too! I put them in shells made from curly maple and bubinga to match the maple stripes and bubinga body on the bass:

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I really love the organic look of the wood covers. It has me eyeing those control knobs as a next thing to change...

In other hews, although I'm sure many people have seen it already, I made a right handed twin to this bass, with a different bridge, slightly different pickup placement, different wood choices, and a few other tweaks:

build thread - 4 string right handed Thumfinizenvette clone
 

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