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Special Edition Build-off : Tripppler!

This is really a project focused on learning how not to do it wrong instead of how to do it right! I keep breaking things! Gotta move at a slow pace and do everything in the right order.... Shallow passes, chisel the outline so I can trim, end grain first then long grain.

So far both missing chunks are fixable, but if I'm not careful, something unfixable might pop up. Or rather, pop out violently, somewhere across the garage where I can't find it! :rolleyes:

IMG_20200408_212556.jpg IMG_20200409_164209.jpg IMG_20200410_110609.jpg
 
I've done that before. I just did it about a month ago on the pair of tenor guitars I posted in the what's on your workbench thread. Not only did I cut into the body, but I gouged the template, too, and had to make a new one. Frustrating to say the least. I try to remind myself that mistakes like these are learning experiences.

Do you have a piece of scrap purpleheart from a cutoff? It looks like the seam in the top is just "above" the damage in your photo. You could route or cut away all of the purpleheart below that seam, down between the pickups, stopping at that really narrow little "bridge" of wood between the pickups. Then, you should be able to glue in a small piece of fresh purpleheart in it's place, and re-route your pickup holes as needed. Since you've basically got a little square "island" of wood that's isolated between that seam and the two pickups, no one should ever know, and the repair won't leave any obvious evidence.

Or just slap on a pickguard!

It looks like you're plunge routing down into the top? For pickups, especially when you're just routing a thin top with an existing cavity in the body core, it makes sense to drill out a majority of the wood, then just use the router to get the shape correct. That way, you can make your first router pass with the bit comfortably low enough to make sure the bearing engages the template, without having to plunge into solid wood, which can be risky.
 
I've done that before. I just did it about a month ago on the pair of tenor guitars I posted in the what's on your workbench thread. Not only did I cut into the body, but I gouged the template, too, and had to make a new one. Frustrating to say the least. I try to remind myself that mistakes like these are learning experiences.

Do you have a piece of scrap purpleheart from a cutoff? It looks like the seam in the top is just "above" the damage in your photo. You could route or cut away all of the purpleheart below that seam, down between the pickups, stopping at that really narrow little "bridge" of wood between the pickups. Then, you should be able to glue in a small piece of fresh purpleheart in it's place, and re-route your pickup holes as needed. Since you've basically got a little square "island" of wood that's isolated between that seam and the two pickups, no one should ever know, and the repair won't leave any obvious evidence.

Or just slap on a pickguard!

It looks like you're plunge routing down into the top? For pickups, especially when you're just routing a thin top with an existing cavity in the body core, it makes sense to drill out a majority of the wood, then just use the router to get the shape correct. That way, you can make your first router pass with the bit comfortably low enough to make sure the bearing engages the template, without having to plunge into solid wood, which can be risky.

It's a fixed height router. Unfortunately my shortest trim bit is 10mm tall and the wood is 6mm thick, so to follow the edge I'm cutting with my chisel - and I'm going to stop chiseling at all now that I've cracked the top from hitting it - I have to take away the full depth.

Anyways, I think I'm stuck freehanding it with the router now. I just wanna be done with it now! My hands and toes freeze out in the garage and all I do is get frustrated with the constant setbacks.
 
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Or...........you make it a feature and rout out the purpleheart down the center and glue in a totally contrasting piece of "something else" and rout your pup holes in that. Give it sort of a "neck-thru" look in a contrasting wood.

I mean, your options are to try to hide it the best you can, or go the total opposite direction. If the purpleheart is just giving you way too many problems, I'd lean in the direction of going totally opposite. At least that might give you a wood that will rout easier.
 
I may or not may not be designing a singular large pickup ring for all three pickups. I also may or may not have started routing the purpleheart to match the oversized cherry cavities, not without tearing another large piece that's being glued into place right now :woot:

I still don't like pickup rings all that much and would have preferred not to have one. That said, it might still work aesthetically speaking, though it'll come out with more of a vintage vibe than what I was aiming for.
 
It might be tedious but sometimes checking a drawing with a print is important.
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Here's some fitting I was doing. I'm really not sure how I want to handle the control plate being so close to the rings. As is, it might work, or I could cut the edge of the ring to fit the plate further in from the edge of the body. Otherwise I can place it next to the edge and just reduce how much chamfer/roundover that area gets.

IMG_20200411_153409.jpg
 
I would focus on keeping the control plate as close to the edge of the body as possible. That will keep the controls further away from the strings and keep the plate from interfering with the pickup rings. On my Air Jazz WBO bass, the top knob is just under 3/4" closer to the strings than it is on an actual jazz bass, and that's really too close - it gets annoying sometimes because the knobs are right on the edge of where I want my fingers to be. It's hard to tell from your photo but it looks like your knobs are going to be too close with the positioning you have the control plate in.
 
Here's some fitting I was doing. I'm really not sure how I want to handle the control plate being so close to the rings. As is, it might work, or I could cut the edge of the ring to fit the plate further in from the edge of the body. Otherwise I can place it next to the edge and just reduce how much chamfer/roundover that area gets.

I would either make a one piece pickguard and control plate (if you want to make them out of the same material) or if you want a plastic pickguard and metal control plate then design the pickguard to integrate to the control plate like in a J-bass. That will make it look intentional.
 
A few things to address what you guys said...

@Reedt2000 Did I route for the control plate yet? No - I still have the option of thinning down the purpleheart from behind and making a rear cover. I might consider that as I do have an extra barrel jack laying around.

@dwizum Can I move the control plate to the edge? Yes. I can move it nearly all the way to the edge as I traced the side of the body to match the contour of the control plate. A start/stop bevel might look interesting around the plate. With the plate all the way over, I get 1.75" of clearance from the edge of a standard knob to the G string, same as my ESP B1005MS, so that's good.

@Jeff Siddall Single piece pickguard or integrating the control plate? A large single guard is out, at least for now as it makes working on the electronics a huge pain. I could make a cutout for the control plate as well, the big issue with that is that I don't have the control plate in hand! I can't measure, trace and scan, etc. and it seems that there's no "standard" control plate size. A quick google search shows 3 or 4 variations.

Realistically if I was going to do a full guard it would look a lot like the GR500 style guard.

A detail that I didn't include earlier is that I plan to have the pickup rings laser cut from aluminum, hence the use of CAD. I could always have a custom control plate cut as well... got a mild case of Option Paralysis here. Ideally I would order this stuff no later than say... Wednesday. Gives me time to do more design work and decide what exactly I want!
 
Okay, I know I said I didn't want a full guard for a couple reasons... couldn't help but mock one up though.

IMG_20200412_124238.jpg


I'm busy tracing out a scanned version in my CAD package. If I did a full guard, I have a couple options to explore as I can have one cut from wood, metal, or plastic.

Of course, I changed the strings on my Brubaker Brute last night so now I'm leaning towards using my figured maple veneer and mixing up some white wash. :D
 

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