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Special Edition Build-off : Tripppler!

#81
I'm not a plane expert but that probably wasn't the ideal one for that job. Grain direction does play a part. If you were going the other direction on the part that tore out it might (might!) have been ok. It's kind of a feel thing when working with a plane. Try to start in a waste section and if it feels like it's grabbing and the blade is sharp try from a different direction. Also, skewing the plane instead of having it directly in line with the direction you're pushing it can help. Like any other tool, you have to practice and work with it.
 
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#82
Matt Liebenau said:
I'm not a plane expert but that probably wasn't the ideal one for that job. Grain direction does play a part. If you were going the other direction on the part that tore out it might (might!) have been ok. It's kind of a feel thing when working with a plane. Try to start in a waste section and if it feels like it's grabbing and the blade is sharp try from a different direction. Also, skewing the plane instead of having it directly in line with the direction you're pushing it can help. Like any other tool, you have to practice and work with it.
Click to expand...

Where it did work, going 45° off the direction of the grain worked. I'm just going to have to use it more often to figure it out I think, but I'll keep that stuff in mind :)
 
#83
Buying cards scrapers was a good idea. @Beej thank you for reminding me they exist!
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That was much more pleasant than sitting there with an orbital sander.

Here's what it looks like now, not all of the tearing got taken care of yet:
IMG_20200405_165302.jpg


I feel much better now. There's still hope that I'll have a nice surface at the end :D
 
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#86
Had some downtime for work while my boss wrangles some project details and I get my VPN set up. I've been using a piece of walnut for finer chisel work, like when I cut the edges of the pickup cavities in the body. It's nice, light, and used to be larger with another hole, but broke since I was smacking it against the butt of a chisel constantly! Fun fact, the same piece of walnut was part of the stock I cut the body of my first build from :)

IMG_20200406_163941.jpg


Anyways, I built a mallet out of white oak and some of my leftover purpleheart. Nothing fancy here, no mortise and tenon or anything like that, just three layers of stock glued up. Thinking this will grant me a little bit more control over the steel hammer I used before :D I got to use my plane to rounder over the edges and flatten the angled faces on the core before laminating so I'd have something consistent and flat to route against, so that's a bonus too.

IMG_20200406_171557.jpg
 
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#88
ctmullins said:
Hang on - there are special mallets for chisel work??
Click to expand...

Historically chisels had wooden handles and striking them with a metal hammer would damage or entirely break them. The appropriate hammer would be something like a joiner's mallet, which is the same shape as what I made, ish, or a carver's mallet, which looks like half a rolling pin. Both made of wood.

Doesn't really matter now that we have plastic handles, I just wanted something lighter. The mallet pictured above is 12oz / 340g which is about half of what my clawfoot measures in at.
 
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#89
Did some more routing for pickup wires and got the pickup screw pilots all drilled. I decided to add a ground wire route rather than try to drill at an angle once the top is on.

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At this point, I think I'm ready to glue the top on! Once it's on I'll be able to transfer the pickup pilots with my drill press and go from there tracing the pickups on the top, chisel the edges and then route to shape with a trim bit. I won't be using a template as I don't own one, and I haven't ever used the same pickup shape twice!

Now, depending on how things end up, I may end up recessing the bridge plate flush with the body too. We'll see. There's also the question of how to line the top up properly... hmm.
 
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#92
Glued the top on last night using every woodworking clamp I own and got a good result, even seam everywhere except a couple small spots :)

IMG_20200407_223408.jpg


Routed...
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... and as expected, and despite my best climb cutting efforts with the router... Always more tearout :meh:

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Guess I'll just have to add a nice forearm contour, could have been worse really! It's a little frustrating to climb cut a whole side down real close to the surface, then route the last little bit as usual only to have a chunk fly out. Eh, oh well.
 
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#93
BioWeapon said:
Glued the top on last night using every woodworking clamp I own and got a good result, even seam everywhere except a couple small spots :)

View attachment 3778219

Routed...
View attachment 3778220

... and as expected, and despite my best climb cutting efforts with the router... Always more tearout :meh:

View attachment 3778221

Guess I'll just have to add a nice forearm contour, could have been worse really! It's a little frustrating to climb cut a whole side down real close to the surface, then route the last little bit as usual only to have a chunk fly out. Eh, oh well.
Click to expand...

If it's going to happen, that's a good spot. Forearm contour....OR binding!!! :) I've really enjoyed following your project! Great work!!!
 
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#95
On my last handful of instruments I've done a typical roundover on the back, and a chamfer on the front. If you are going to do a forearm contour, or any other contour involving a larger flat cut along the edge, I think a flat chamfer blends in more nicely than an actual roundover.
 
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