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SPECTOR® Club - Part 40

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Okay. I promised Jamie last night that I wouldn't bring this up on the thread because I don't want a ruckus. But my curiosity is getting the better of me, so I'm gonna do it. Sorry Jamie. This is on me.

I had a long talk with my tech the other day about 9v vs 18v powering on board preamps on basses. This guy is a pro, owns his own shop, 25+ years of experience, certified by Gibson, Fender, EMG, you name it, he can do warranty work on it. I was debating the bqc in my faux forte and asked him if there was any real advantage to me going to 18v instead of 9. So we plugged it up, tried it out and I couldn't tell the difference except that I was more likely to get clipping (ie undesirable and potentially damaging distortion) in the preamp section of the head. He said that ideally, you want headroom to exist in the power section of your amplification, essentially the last stage before the signal hits a speaker. You don't want it at the input stage. Now this discussion was just about EMGs and other active pickups paired with any kind of preamp. He said that the concept of getting more headroom from running an 18v preamp on board your bass is actually a false perception because In the end, it's the power section of your rig where the headroom should come from, not the front end. Thusly, he doesn't encourage 18v operation with active pickups and not often with passive either unless the manufacturer of the preamp specifically calls for 18v in order to effectively process the signal that the preamp is shaping. Boosting on board headroom increases volume, but doesn't change the tone, unless the preamp was designed for 18v purposefully, and runs a higher risk of clipping the input stage of your amp which is unhealthy for it whether it's solid state or tube or hybrid. Having the preamp section overdrive itself to create overdrive is fine, but you don't want to clip your input, literally at the jack, under any circumstance.

So, in the interest of healthy, non insult throwing debate, I want to put it out there that 18v preamp mods aren't necessarily necessary. I went ahead and said just put a 9v in it because I couldn't tell a tonal difference because the circuit isn't designed to shape the tone based on being powered with 18 volts, so to add an extra battery is not redundant, but actually wasteful unless the pre was designed especially for two batteries.

So, what do you guys think? I told Jamie (brotherbassj) that I didn't want to put it out here for discussion for fear of incurring wrath or starting some sh!t, but we're family here, and we should be able to talk about this kind of stuff without making it personal. And so with that plead for sane, rational and intelligent debate, let's talk about this. I'll start it off with an example:

Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

So let's hear about it. I think Sam does the most wiring work out of everyone here, but a lot of us do stuff for friends on the side. Personally I subscribe to the sandwich theory of setups and installs: a sandwich that someone else makes for me always tastes better than the same sandwich I make for myself. Similarly, I like having my basses set up and upgraded by another tech because of the same psychological perception that it makes the sandwich better. I could do it myself, but I feel like its better when my tech does it.

And yes, I realize I just threw in a sub-topic for debate: the sandwich theory of setups and installs.

Ready. Set. Go. And remember we're family here so let's not make it mean or nasty, but actually talk about the facts and the personal perceptions, please.

Generally in the bass world there is little difference in 9v or 18v active systems, as it is all in design. I have owned 18 and 9 v Kubickis and tonally they were nearly identical.

I am not a Spector expert, but i would say that you can get a little more "ooompf" out of the 18v system, but for most players it is probably not significant.

Having said that, in Jaymi's hands you could probably hear all the differences.

That is my two cents.
 
Okay. I promised Jamie last night that I wouldn't bring this up on the thread because I don't want a ruckus. But my curiosity is getting the better of me, so I'm gonna do it. Sorry Jamie. This is on me.

I had a long talk with my tech the other day about 9v vs 18v powering on board preamps on basses. This guy is a pro, owns his own shop, 25+ years of experience, certified by Gibson, Fender, EMG, you name it, he can do warranty work on it. I was debating the bqc in my faux forte and asked him if there was any real advantage to me going to 18v instead of 9. So we plugged it up, tried it out and I couldn't tell the difference except that I was more likely to get clipping (ie undesirable and potentially damaging distortion) in the preamp section of the head. He said that ideally, you want headroom to exist in the power section of your amplification, essentially the last stage before the signal hits a speaker. You don't want it at the input stage. Now this discussion was just about EMGs and other active pickups paired with any kind of preamp. He said that the concept of getting more headroom from running an 18v preamp on board your bass is actually a false perception because In the end, it's the power section of your rig where the headroom should come from, not the front end. Thusly, he doesn't encourage 18v operation with active pickups and not often with passive either unless the manufacturer of the preamp specifically calls for 18v in order to effectively process the signal that the preamp is shaping. Boosting on board headroom increases volume, but doesn't change the tone, unless the preamp was designed for 18v purposefully, and runs a higher risk of clipping the input stage of your amp which is unhealthy for it whether it's solid state or tube or hybrid. Having the preamp section overdrive itself to create overdrive is fine, but you don't want to clip your input, literally at the jack, under any circumstance.

So, in the interest of healthy, non insult throwing debate, I want to put it out there that 18v preamp mods aren't necessarily necessary. I went ahead and said just put a 9v in it because I couldn't tell a tonal difference because the circuit isn't designed to shape the tone based on being powered with 18 volts, so to add an extra battery is not redundant, but actually wasteful unless the pre was designed especially for two batteries.

So, what do you guys think? I told Jamie (brotherbassj) that I didn't want to put it out here for discussion for fear of incurring wrath or starting some sh!t, but we're family here, and we should be able to talk about this kind of stuff without making it personal. And so with that plead for sane, rational and intelligent debate, let's talk about this. I'll start it off with an example:

Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

So let's hear about it. I think Sam does the most wiring work out of everyone here, but a lot of us do stuff for friends on the side. Personally I subscribe to the sandwich theory of setups and installs: a sandwich that someone else makes for me always tastes better than the same sandwich I make for myself. Similarly, I like having my basses set up and upgraded by another tech because of the same psychological perception that it makes the sandwich better. I could do it myself, but I feel like its better when my tech does it.

And yes, I realize I just threw in a sub-topic for debate: the sandwich theory of setups and installs.

Ready. Set. Go. And remember we're family here so let's not make it mean or nasty, but actually talk about the facts and the personal perceptions, please.

My thoughts are this:
If the Spector company thought a $2 modification would make their basses better, I assume they would do it at the factory.

I've made my living in pro audio for 20 years. Every audio component has an operating "sweet spot". Headroom if your friend, distortion and noise is not (usually).

When comparing audio sources, the louder source always comes across as "better". Our brains are wired that way. I spend a huge chunk of my day-everyday day comparing and matching levels in order to make fair comparisons.

I HAVE NOT tried to run my tonepump at 18v. Not because I think it is technically wrong but because I like how it sounds now. When I pick it up, I'd rather play it than tinker with it. I'll try it someday with the above points in mind.
 
Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

LimaGuy posted some soundclips of the Tonepump 9v vs. 18v a few months ago. To me, running at 18v clearly sounds better. Since it was a $8 mod for 9v clips and a Duracell, that's how I run my 4LX now. I trust my ears.
 
I think most people would be hard pressed to tell the difference between a 9 and 18 volt system. I don't see a problem running an 18 volt as long as your amp can handle that kind of head room and doesn't clip.
 
Pardon the rant but I really dislike NBD being spoiled by an ebay seller who calls something "near mint" when there is rust on the bridge, tons of gouges/scratches, and a big chunk of the underside (where it was obviously dropped) that has been poorly camouflaged with a sharpie.

Oh man Eric! :scowl: So sorry for you man! What bass is it?
I can say that the 2 Spectors that I bought off eBay, NS95 & ReBop 5 DLX, we're in excellent condition when I received them. Except the strings on the NS-95 were getting rusted and corroded from being in storage room for so long. It was a old/new bass, never sold or played.

It's a fretless 4 string Spectorcore. Seller never responded so I'm going to have to open a case with ebay/paypal. It's mostly just annoying. I tend to go the smadder route when selling a bass (i.e. lots of pictures of every little blem and scratch) specifically so that the buyer knows what he/she's getting. It's a major pet peeve of mine when people try to pass off something as a lot better than it really is. I'm not stupid (most of the time) and I can tell when a bass or guitar has been dropped. :scowl:
 
Very nIce snag Jeff!!! :D. Where did that one come from? That is my favorite color and maple quilting! If you EVER decide to sell it, PLEASE give me first dibs on it!!!! :D

Todd sold it to me for $1200......j/k.....I think Sam is first in line from 2 months ago. You are 8th in line if I'm correct. But I think I would sell my orange Kramer and even the Black one that isn't built yet before this one. I had 3 offers this morning alone. I guess people love swimming. :D
 
Okay. I promised Jamie last night that I wouldn't bring this up on the thread because I don't want a ruckus. But my curiosity is getting the better of me, so I'm gonna do it. Sorry Jamie. This is on me.

I had a long talk with my tech the other day about 9v vs 18v powering on board preamps on basses. This guy is a pro, owns his own shop, 25+ years of experience, certified by Gibson, Fender, EMG, you name it, he can do warranty work on it. I was debating the bqc in my faux forte and asked him if there was any real advantage to me going to 18v instead of 9. So we plugged it up, tried it out and I couldn't tell the difference except that I was more likely to get clipping (ie undesirable and potentially damaging distortion) in the preamp section of the head. He said that ideally, you want headroom to exist in the power section of your amplification, essentially the last stage before the signal hits a speaker. You don't want it at the input stage. Now this discussion was just about EMGs and other active pickups paired with any kind of preamp. He said that the concept of getting more headroom from running an 18v preamp on board your bass is actually a false perception because In the end, it's the power section of your rig where the headroom should come from, not the front end. Thusly, he doesn't encourage 18v operation with active pickups and not often with passive either unless the manufacturer of the preamp specifically calls for 18v in order to effectively process the signal that the preamp is shaping. Boosting on board headroom increases volume, but doesn't change the tone, unless the preamp was designed for 18v purposefully, and runs a higher risk of clipping the input stage of your amp which is unhealthy for it whether it's solid state or tube or hybrid. Having the preamp section overdrive itself to create overdrive is fine, but you don't want to clip your input, literally at the jack, under any circumstance.

So, in the interest of healthy, non insult throwing debate, I want to put it out there that 18v preamp mods aren't necessarily necessary. I went ahead and said just put a 9v in it because I couldn't tell a tonal difference because the circuit isn't designed to shape the tone based on being powered with 18 volts, so to add an extra battery is not redundant, but actually wasteful unless the pre was designed especially for two batteries.

So, what do you guys think? I told Jamie (brotherbassj) that I didn't want to put it out here for discussion for fear of incurring wrath or starting some sh!t, but we're family here, and we should be able to talk about this kind of stuff without making it personal. And so with that plead for sane, rational and intelligent debate, let's talk about this. I'll start it off with an example:

Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

So let's hear about it. I think Sam does the most wiring work out of everyone here, but a lot of us do stuff for friends on the side. Personally I subscribe to the sandwich theory of setups and installs: a sandwich that someone else makes for me always tastes better than the same sandwich I make for myself. Similarly, I like having my basses set up and upgraded by another tech because of the same psychological perception that it makes the sandwich better. I could do it myself, but I feel like its better when my tech does it.

And yes, I realize I just threw in a sub-topic for debate: the sandwich theory of setups and installs.

Ready. Set. Go. And remember we're family here so let's not make it mean or nasty, but actually talk about the facts and the personal perceptions, please.

brotherbassj not I....LOL....just in case any of you were looking at the spelling...
 
Okay. I promised Jamie last night that I wouldn't bring this up on the thread because I don't want a ruckus. But my curiosity is getting the better of me, so I'm gonna do it. Sorry Jamie. This is on me.

I had a long talk with my tech the other day about 9v vs 18v powering on board preamps on basses. This guy is a pro, owns his own shop, 25+ years of experience, certified by Gibson, Fender, EMG, you name it, he can do warranty work on it. I was debating the bqc in my faux forte and asked him if there was any real advantage to me going to 18v instead of 9. So we plugged it up, tried it out and I couldn't tell the difference except that I was more likely to get clipping (ie undesirable and potentially damaging distortion) in the preamp section of the head. He said that ideally, you want headroom to exist in the power section of your amplification, essentially the last stage before the signal hits a speaker. You don't want it at the input stage. Now this discussion was just about EMGs and other active pickups paired with any kind of preamp. He said that the concept of getting more headroom from running an 18v preamp on board your bass is actually a false perception because In the end, it's the power section of your rig where the headroom should come from, not the front end. Thusly, he doesn't encourage 18v operation with active pickups and not often with passive either unless the manufacturer of the preamp specifically calls for 18v in order to effectively process the signal that the preamp is shaping. Boosting on board headroom increases volume, but doesn't change the tone, unless the preamp was designed for 18v purposefully, and runs a higher risk of clipping the input stage of your amp which is unhealthy for it whether it's solid state or tube or hybrid. Having the preamp section overdrive itself to create overdrive is fine, but you don't want to clip your input, literally at the jack, under any circumstance.

So, in the interest of healthy, non insult throwing debate, I want to put it out there that 18v preamp mods aren't necessarily necessary. I went ahead and said just put a 9v in it because I couldn't tell a tonal difference because the circuit isn't designed to shape the tone based on being powered with 18 volts, so to add an extra battery is not redundant, but actually wasteful unless the pre was designed especially for two batteries.

So, what do you guys think? I told Jamie (brotherbassj) that I didn't want to put it out here for discussion for fear of incurring wrath or starting some sh!t, but we're family here, and we should be able to talk about this kind of stuff without making it personal. And so with that plead for sane, rational and intelligent debate, let's talk about this. I'll start it off with an example:

Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

So let's hear about it. I think Sam does the most wiring work out of everyone here, but a lot of us do stuff for friends on the side. Personally I subscribe to the sandwich theory of setups and installs: a sandwich that someone else makes for me always tastes better than the same sandwich I make for myself. Similarly, I like having my basses set up and upgraded by another tech because of the same psychological perception that it makes the sandwich better. I could do it myself, but I feel like its better when my tech does it.

And yes, I realize I just threw in a sub-topic for debate: the sandwich theory of setups and installs.

Ready. Set. Go. And remember we're family here so let's not make it mean or nasty, but actually talk about the facts and the personal perceptions, please.
First, the amp is not in the equation...at all. An 18 volt mod, for pickups and preamps that can handle it and claim, by the manufacturer (like EMG) to run with more headroom as such should not be any louder than running at 9 volts. It simply raises the ceiling before clipping occures within the pickup's own internal pre (such as EMG's) from the amount of magnetic signal taken from the vibrating strings. In other words, given everything but the voltage being equal, a given (hard) note that clips the pickup's internal pre at 9 volts may not clip it at 18 volts due to the higher ceiling available. It is not making them run hotter/louder.
After the pickups, if there is an equalization pre amp (Tone Pump, etc.), your tech is correct about one thing: it probably doesn't need the 18 volts. But unless you want to run a separate battery/power system for the pre (one battery for the pre, two for the pups), it's kind of along for the ride.

In a passive pickups scenario, unless the added equalization pre's manufacturer recommends it, an 18 volt mod is unneeded. This all has to do with the internals of the bass and has nothing to do with the amount of signal hitting the input stage of the amp. This is where your tech is way off base.

I've been doing 18 volt mods to almost all my EMG equiped basses (mostly Spectors ;)) for well over 25 years. I've never had one get louder from it....as they shouldn't.

Most of us here seem to think the 18 volt mod is about our equalizations pres (EMG, Tone Pumps, whatever). It is not.
It's about EMG recommending 18 volts for the pres inside it's active pickups. Most can even be run at 27 volts. :eek:

However, some manufacturers (Aguilar, etc.) actually recommend 18 volts for some of their equalization pre's.
 
Okay. I promised Jamie last night that I wouldn't bring this up on the thread because I don't want a ruckus. But my curiosity is getting the better of me, so I'm gonna do it. Sorry Jamie. This is on me.

I had a long talk with my tech the other day about 9v vs 18v powering on board preamps on basses. This guy is a pro, owns his own shop, 25+ years of experience, certified by Gibson, Fender, EMG, you name it, he can do warranty work on it. I was debating the bqc in my faux forte and asked him if there was any real advantage to me going to 18v instead of 9. So we plugged it up, tried it out and I couldn't tell the difference except that I was more likely to get clipping (ie undesirable and potentially damaging distortion) in the preamp section of the head. He said that ideally, you want headroom to exist in the power section of your amplification, essentially the last stage before the signal hits a speaker. You don't want it at the input stage. Now this discussion was just about EMGs and other active pickups paired with any kind of preamp. He said that the concept of getting more headroom from running an 18v preamp on board your bass is actually a false perception because In the end, it's the power section of your rig where the headroom should come from, not the front end. Thusly, he doesn't encourage 18v operation with active pickups and not often with passive either unless the manufacturer of the preamp specifically calls for 18v in order to effectively process the signal that the preamp is shaping. Boosting on board headroom increases volume, but doesn't change the tone, unless the preamp was designed for 18v purposefully, and runs a higher risk of clipping the input stage of your amp which is unhealthy for it whether it's solid state or tube or hybrid. Having the preamp section overdrive itself to create overdrive is fine, but you don't want to clip your input, literally at the jack, under any circumstance.

So, in the interest of healthy, non insult throwing debate, I want to put it out there that 18v preamp mods aren't necessarily necessary. I went ahead and said just put a 9v in it because I couldn't tell a tonal difference because the circuit isn't designed to shape the tone based on being powered with 18 volts, so to add an extra battery is not redundant, but actually wasteful unless the pre was designed especially for two batteries.

So, what do you guys think? I told Jamie (brotherbassj) that I didn't want to put it out here for discussion for fear of incurring wrath or starting some sh!t, but we're family here, and we should be able to talk about this kind of stuff without making it personal. And so with that plead for sane, rational and intelligent debate, let's talk about this. I'll start it off with an example:

Why modify the trim pot Tone Pump to 18v? Have you a/B'd it in the same bass to compare? Did you really get a difference in tone or did you just make your signal hotter and give the illusion of a change in tone simply because the signal was louder, but hadn't actually changed the nature of how the preamp processes and shapes the signal, because adding a battery doesn't change how the preamp shapes the signal. It doesn't change the preamp's structural electronic design. It's just getting more power thrown at it. Louder doesn't mean tone change. That is unless you consider a greater volume push at the start of your signal chain to fall under the definition of a change in tone.

So let's hear about it. I think Sam does the most wiring work out of everyone here, but a lot of us do stuff for friends on the side. Personally I subscribe to the sandwich theory of setups and installs: a sandwich that someone else makes for me always tastes better than the same sandwich I make for myself. Similarly, I like having my basses set up and upgraded by another tech because of the same psychological perception that it makes the sandwich better. I could do it myself, but I feel like its better when my tech does it.

And yes, I realize I just threw in a sub-topic for debate: the sandwich theory of setups and installs.

Ready. Set. Go. And remember we're family here so let's not make it mean or nasty, but actually talk about the facts and the personal perceptions, please.

Cool info....I have no problem or dislike with 9 volt. For me 18 volt was never an option.
 
Most electronic components cannot handle more than a just a small percent increase in voltage outside of it's design perimeter.
I suspect that these EMG components are utilizing a regulator to control the voltage which would allow extra headroom by having extra voltage available during high instances of current demand, but I suspect this is hardly perceivable and not worthwhile except that doubling the voltage just about halves the current consumption (more or less) therefore doubles the battery life, but that is not really an issue with our usage.
 
sumgruuvz said:
make sure you try and meet them after the show. alex is the coolest dude. he'll probably talk to you for hours about spectors. lol

I would have loved to meet him, but after 7 hours on my feet watching bands, I was absolutely exhausted. I'll catch them the next time they roll with a smaller group and try my luck.
 
Here's some more Spector-endorsed love from last night - BTBAM!
 

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