SPECTOR® Club - Part 65

[Rebopmass]

You've got to be kidding........... That looks like a $600 paint job. That is phenomenal. I might try that with my legend. It has some battle beauty marks.

Nope not kidding Mark at skin your skunk did a great job.

 

[Zitch]

Thank You Zitch....Iris rocked last nights show, had some fun with that bass and it sounded great! We used a fill in drummer last night and maybe your little guy could have helped! lol

Lol, hes tight in the pocket, hard for me to keep up with him sometimes

 

[johnsonabq]

OK... Mixed emotions about last night's practice with the Tone Hammer 500 and the DB212 cabinet.

Started the night with a couple of songs that called for my four string played with a pick. Sounded great! My drummer immediately commented on how "punchy" it was. But then when I broke out the five string playing finger style. It was muddy and distorted.

I checked the bass when I got home through headphones and that wasn't it. I don't want to have to make major changes to the gain, drive, etc., every time I switch to the fiver. Hmmm... Just have to play around with it more. Maybe lower the pups on the five. Maybe back off on the output of the Fdeck 3. It's running at unity with the freq at 35hz. Maybe adjust the freq too. I'll have to experiment.

On a brighter note, I think the DB212 is a fantastic cabinet!

 

[husky123]

I'd slide the fdeck up to about 60-80 hz to help out some with that issue and tighten the B. If it's still an issue it's just a gain staging thing. I have to adjust gain staging even between NS 2's for output differences. Once you know how all your basses react it's second nature.

OK... Mixed emotions about last night's practice with the Tone Hammer 500 and the DB212 cabinet.

Started the night with a couple of songs that called for my four string played with a pick. Sounded great! My drummer immediately commented on how "punchy" it was. But then when I broke out the five string playing finger style. It was muddy and distorted.

I checked the bass when I got home through headphones and that wasn't it. I don't want to have to make major changes to the gain, drive, etc., every time I switch to the fiver. Hmmm... Just have to play around with it more. Maybe lower the pups on the five. Maybe back off on the output of the Fdeck 3. It's running at unity with the freq at 35hz. Maybe adjust the freq too. I'll have to experiment.

On a brighter note, I think the DB212 is a fantastic cabinet!

 

[bunkaroo]

WOW....BUNK, Todd can probably get the part that you need for this fix, you can call the store directly if your in a hurry (918) 835-6959

No hurry really - still works and I'm not planning to gig it right now. I've got an email into PJ about the part.

 

[JPSBassist]

I think the strings might be best suited for fingerstyle on a 4-string which makes sense if you think about how they came about.

I think you may have a good point here. PJ did develop them using his 4-string NS-2. And I'm not really sure about how much testing was done for the 5-string set.

PJ is for sure all fingerstyle. I've never seen him touch a pick. Not to say he can't or doesn't. I just know that the dozen or so times I've seen him play, it's always without a pick.

I'm going to string up the Coda and the other two US models tomorrow and do some comparisons. It may come down to liking them more on bass than the other.

Another thing that may make sense. Again, they were developed on a 34" platform. So perhaps that's where they will do best. I can't remember if your Coda is a 5 or 4. But either way, unless it's a Coda XL - if it is a 5'er, you'll have a 34" platform to test them on.

Compared to the standard Spector stainless strings I personally like the 603 strings better. BUT... I am ONLY playing on 34" scale 4-strings. So that may be a big variable.

I can't wait to see what you come up with.

I have a lot of respect for you as a bassist and as a smart bassist who knows his gear and knows what tones work for him. So I put a lot of stock in your opinion. Thanks for taking the time to test these strings.

 

[levis76]

Couple of questions related to modding and setup on my Rebop 5.

I'm really leaning towards having the plastic nut replaced with brass, and I'll also probably go ahead and have the frets leveled and dressed.

For those that have gone before, do you order a nut blank from Spector or just take the bass to a local shop and have them do it up with whatever they've got? Either way, I'm going to have it all done by a reputable shop, just not sure how to go about obtaining the nut itself.

Does anyone else with a 5er have issues with the B string bridge slot when using non-tapered strings? I didn't want to start removing material from the bridge, so I had to Dremel a bit of material from that area of the string to get it to fit properly. Didn't take much, probably less that what gets removed for half rounds, but I've never been a fan of tapered ends and the B string saddle is high enough, couldn't imagine how much higher it would have to be to get the action set right if the section of the string passing over it was thinner.

Any advice or guidance on either of these matters would be appreciated.

FYI, I have a BQC system I'd be willing to swap straight up for a trim equipped TonePump. It's barely used and currently wired up to a pair of EMG 40DC at 18V. I'd like to swap everything but the output jack and p'ups. Just looking for a set and forget type pre, I end up constantly fiddling with the mids on the EMG. SO many options and I can never decide, I'd rather just take it back to stock. Let me know if you're interested.

EDIT - Realized I had essentially posted a FT ad in the thread and realized my TB sub had expired, so I made it right and made my annual donation. I'll give club members first crack at the BQC, and if there are no takers I'll post a FS/FT ad in Accessories.

 

[johnsonabq]

I'd slide the fdeck up to about 60-80 hz to help out some with that issue and tighten the B. If it's still an issue it's just a gain staging thing. I have to adjust gain staging even between NS 2's for output differences. Once you know how all your basses react it's second nature.

Do you find you have to adjust both the gain and the drive or just the gain between basses?

 

[bunkaroo]

Another thing that may make sense. Again, they were developed on a 34" platform. So perhaps that's where they will do best. I can't remember if your Coda is a 5 or 4. But either way, unless it's a Coda XL - if it is a 5'er, you'll have a 34" platform to test them on.

Compared to the standard Spector stainless strings I personally like the 603 strings better. BUT... I am ONLY playing on 34" scale 4-strings. So that may be a big variable.

I can't wait to see what you come up with.

I have a lot of respect for you as a bassist and as a smart bassist who knows his gear and knows what tones work for him. So I put a lot of stock in your opinion. Thanks for taking the time to test these strings.

I appreciate the compliments.

My Coda is 35", but that should just help with the tension. Could be I just got a wonky B. I agree these are better than the standard Spector steels for sure.

Another variable is how they will read through my amp. All of this testing so far has been through my U5 and RBI direct into my PC. Definitely not giving up on them - just need to thoroughly put them through their paces.

 

[bunkaroo]

Couple of questions related to modding and setup on my Rebop 5.

I'm really leaning towards having the plastic nut replaced with brass, and I'll also probably go ahead and have the frets leveled and dressed.

Personally I love the brass nuts (Butthead laugh). I would get it direct from Spector if possible so you know it's the right size. If you don't see a Rebop nut on the store page (which I'm thinking is the same as a Euro LX nut), just email PJ and he'll help I'm sure.

Does anyone else with a 5er have issues with the B string bridge slot when using non-tapered strings? I didn't want to start removing material from the bridge, so I had to Dremel a bit of material from that area of the string to get it to fit properly. Didn't take much, probably less that what gets removed for half rounds, but I've never been a fan of tapered ends and the B string saddle is high enough, couldn't imagine how much higher it would have to be to get the action set right if the section of the string passing over it was thinner.

Any advice or guidance on either of these matters would be appreciated.

Yes that is a common problem with the Euro bridge. I could barely get the 130 DR Fat Beam or Lo-Rider winding through there. Forget about heavier gauges. That's a big reason I moved to Circle K strings and am also trying the Spector 603 strings. Both have tapered ends. I don't find it's a huge difference in saddle height. I've never run into a problem of running out of saddle height for them. I do like my strings fairly low, but if the neck relief is set well, you should be able to get the string height where you want it with no problems. I did so on 5 different Euro bridges.

 

[dukeisdog]

Iris is my Favorite bass in the club right now

That bass sounds killer and is a big reason im addicted to that Scale The Summit Album.

Great NS2A!

Oh yeah in...with my Drummer!

Am I missing something here? Is Basstovsky in Scale the Summit or was the bass just used on the album? I think I remember hearing they're heading out this way in a few months and I missed them last time around, if that's the case I'll be sure to grab tickets! I'm loving the album too!

 

[worshiprocker]

anyone ever just want to try new amps out? I had some of the best tone ever last night and yet I still want to mess with new gear.... AHHHH!

 

[dukeisdog]

anyone ever just want to try new amps out? I had some of the best tone ever last night and yet I still want to mess with new gear.... AHHHH!

Man, I've been in that boat for a long time now. I'd really love to try an Aguilar DB750 or either of those new Mesa All tubers... Or the Ampeg V4B Reissue. There's just too much gear out there to really have the opportunity to realistically try it all out. I've now pretty much settled on my Mesa 400 until I get tired of the weight, so I'm now just trying out new pedals which is quite the addiction also haha.

 

[johnsonabq]

anyone ever just want to try new amps out? I had some of the best tone ever last night and yet I still want to mess with new gear.... AHHHH!

I'm in the middle of new gear hell right now. LOL

 

[LimaGuy]

Some thoughts on 603 strings....

Finally got some time to string up one of the basses with the 603 strings. I did record clips with the CK's and the 603's doing the same lick. Hope to get that posted tomorrow.

First thing I noticed after I put them on was they aren't "zingy" like some steels, especially the B and E. Not necessarily a bad thing.

Another thing is, the low B doesn't see to have the same kind of sustain that I'm used to. Not that it just thuds, but it's a different tone when I let it ring than I'm used to. That probably has something to do with the lower tension. The low-mid grunt Sam talked about is there and it's very cool. Not getting a lot of higher mids from these though, at least not with the pick.

They are rougher than the steels I got used to (Fat Beams, ProSteels), but the feel is good and I get a lot of nice vibrato out of the strings.

I played along with a lot of tunes, from my own stuff to Divinity Compromised to a lot of Jammit stuff. Some tunes they worked really well. Others I felt they weren't cutting like I'm used to with the CK's.

I'm really torn on these. My gut is telling me they aren't for me, but my head wants to make them work. I think the big thing for against them is I'm not crazy about the B, and that's a very important string for me. I think the strings might be best suited for fingerstyle on a 4-string which makes sense if you think about how they came about.

I'm going to string up the Coda and the other two US models tomorrow and do some comparisons. It may come down to liking them more on bass than the other. But if my experience is similar, I may have a few of the 5-string sets to unload.

I, for one, really appreciate the honest review... I'm too stuck on the d'addario balanced tension strings to even try anything else, lol

Good info. They're stringing my new NS-4 with Formula 603s in NY, so that I don't have to restring it right when I get it. I'm really curious about them, especially cuz I play fast. They'll either be a good alternative to my LaBellas or not/

Regarding the Formula 603's.
Bunk, Defiantly provide your feedback to PJ.

I am a finger style 4 string player and I prefer lower tension strings. So as Bunk said these do work very well for me.

Those who know me from the beginning of coming on to Talkbass, I have spent over $600 on trying every brand of Steel strings out there.
At one point I was Donny's personal string supplier.

I despise the original version of exposed core Spector Steel Strings.
I can't play nickel but when I played regular Spector Nickels on other Spectors I felt the tension was too tight for me.

These Formula 603 strings I would say are not the string to use if you are tuning down.

Bunk, just curious the previous strings you have used,
Are the B and E string Tapered? If so, are they less or more tapered?

I personally dislike the feel of tapered strings and any tapered string I have used the string rattles "yes I adjusted the saddles up"
It just seems my attack doesn't match with a tapered string.

Remember the 4 string set is with a non tapered E string.
The 5 string set has a tapered E and B string. Reason: PJ wanted to make sure they fit in any of the tighter Euro & Korean 5 & 6 string bridges.

Worldeeeter,
Do you use LaBella Steels? If so, the Formula 603's will be much lower tension then those.

 

[husky123]

Do you find you have to adjust both the gain and the drive or just the gain between basses?

Mostly the drive. The drive and midrange have a symbiotic relationship. My gain for the Spector's usually stays around 9 o'clock but I'll have to back the drive way down for some hotter basses like my Forte....if I don't, I get what you had. The gain and drive on the TH350/500 are not like your typical amps.

 

[bunkaroo]

Bunk, just curious the previous strings you have used,
Are the B and E string Tapered? If so, are they less or more tapered?

I personally dislike the feel of tapered strings and any tapered string I have used the string rattles "yes I adjusted the saddles up"
It just seems my attack doesn't match with a tapered string.

Remember the 4 string set is with a non tapered E string.
The 5 string set has a tapered E and B string. Reason: PJ wanted to make sure they fit in any of the tighter Euro & Korean 5 & 6 string bridges.
.

Yeah the CK's are tapered. Pretty close in thickness on the wind. I didn't have to move the saddle height - my measurements came out the same at the 12th fret. Not sure if I was lucky or what, but I didn't even have to touch intonation when I changed to these on the 5XL.

But you could be on to something. The B and E seems to be a little different in feel than the ADG, and those aren't tapered.

 

[levis76]

Personally I love the brass nuts (Butthead laugh). I would get it direct from Spector if possible so you know it's the right size. If you don't see a Rebop nut on the store page (which I'm thinking is the same as a Euro LX nut), just email PJ and he'll help I'm sure.



Yes that is a common problem with the Euro bridge. I could barely get the 130 DR Fat Beam or Lo-Rider winding through there. Forget about heavier gauges. That's a big reason I moved to Circle K strings and am also trying the Spector 603 strings. Both have tapered ends. I don't find it's a huge difference in saddle height. I've never run into a problem of running out of saddle height for them. I do like my strings fairly low, but if the neck relief is set well, you should be able to get the string height where you want it with no problems. I did so on 5 different Euro bridges.

Thanks for the info, I'll look into ordering a nut. Maybe the neck relief does need to be adjusted, but I'll let a tech tangle with it first before I start cranking it. I am capable of doing my own setups, I learned a long time ago how to make all of the adjustments. It's saved me a lot of money over the years, but the saddle heights on this Rebop seem quite high to attain the medium action I like to play with.

Thanks again for the info on the brass nuts, huh huh huh.

 

[worshiprocker]

At one point I was Donny's personal string supplier.

hah... good times for sure. Nothing like getting strings precut for a spector with about 10 minutes of play time

 

[LimaGuy]

Thanks for the info, I'll look into ordering a nut. Maybe the neck relief does need to be adjusted, but I'll let a tech tangle with it first before I start cranking it. I am capable of doing my own setups, I learned a long time ago how to make all of the adjustments. It's saved me a lot of money over the years, but the saddle heights on this Rebop seem quite high to attain the medium action I like to play with.

Thanks again for the info on the brass nuts, huh huh huh.

The design of the ReBop neck is high off the body of the bass.
The saddles will always be higher then you think they should be.

Quick test on the neck. You will need a 2nd person to do this.

Press down the 2nd fret and the 24th fret of the lowest string.

At the 9th and the 12th fret slide in a standard business card under the string.

If a standard business card just barely fits in you should be ok.
If a standard business card fits it with lots of extra room try a credit card.
If the credit card fits in but tight, the neck may have a bit too much relief.
If the credit card fits in with alot of extra space the neck has much too much relief.