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SPECTOR® Club - Part 66

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If it does, you'll just be stuck playing that new-to-you Euro for a bit longer. :bawl:

Just kidding.... that bass rocks!!! :bassist:

Yeah, right? What the hell am I worried about? ;)

Thing is, I'm betting that the NS-2 and the Euro 4 will have two different sounds that I can use and therefore get to play both at gigs. :bassist:

I do like the sound of the p/j pups with a little bias to the "p". Then add the USA9v and whoa!
 
Is that the same Mike Lull that builds basses? Didn't realize he worked on Spectors, too. Is that how Eddie Jackson ended up playing Lull basses?

I'm sure that had something to do with it.:D

You walk in to has office/shop and see platinum/gold record on the wall. AIC, Queensryche, Heart, etc.....Mike is a really nice guy and does work on any guitar or bass. Once when I was in there (in the 90's I think) he showed me one of Lemmy's basses which he was working on. He makes his own basses and guitars as well. He treats me (a regular smuck/hack bassist) like anyone else who walks into his shop. If anyone's ever in the Seattle (Bellevue to be exact) area, stop by and see him. He's a good a person as they come. Not trying to pursued anyone to switch brands, he does excellent work on Spectors.....

http://mikelull.com/
 
Following up on a recent post regarding DR strings on the US bridges.

I was setting up my blue NS-5XL with SS Lo-Riders, and I had a .135 to use for the A. This is the bass I had gotten a new bridge for with the intonation screws from bassmanc. So I had the old bridge laying around and decided to see how the winding would fit. And it would NOT go through. So then I checked the new bridge and it did fit. So it seems the gap was widened for the new intonation screw 5-string US bridge.

I was also setting up the NS-6XL with Lo-Riders, and that gap was pretty tight for a .130. So there seems to be some variance between the bridges. The 6XL bridge also has intonation screws on it. Another odd thing I just noticed is the B string saddle has some kind of black "shim" glued to the side of it where it would touch the inside of the bridge frame. It actually seems to push the rest of the saddles a little to the side. I took the saddle off to see if I could remove it but it's on there pretty good. I don't know what the reason for this but I'm going to check with PJ and see what he says.

Christian, if you read this, perhaps you could check if your 6XL has this too? Very strange. I should have taken a pic of the saddle while it was off but I was too focused on getting it back on which was kind of a pain in the neck.

EDIT: As usual fast and awesome customer service from Spector. I emailed PJ and put me in touch with Jimmy. In a nutshell, the new bridges have adjustment screws on both sides to push the saddles from the side, but this bridge was a little older and still only has it on one side, so the shim was needed to keep the string from coming too close to the edge, which makes sense. I hadn't even put together that the new 5XL bridge has those screws on both sides but the 6XL didn't. So it seems there are minor adjustments made to the bridges with each batch they get.

I'll have to check mines! Interesting
 
I am asking the club for some advice here.
I have a guy local to me with a red 1998 NS4CRFM for sale on CL for $1150.
I think that's a bit high for a CR made instrument of that vintage.
What do you think?
And if any of you snipe me, I'll cry a little, but not for long.

That's more or less what it's worth, provided the finish is in very good shape.
However, there have been a ton of Euro 4-strings for sale lately, and they have been priced sub-$1000.
If you're flexible on the finish/color, you can probably pick one up for $850 - $900 on TB.
 
They will get one shipped out to Todd tomorrow. Should be there in several days. Then they will rewire and ship to me. So I'm guessing a week. Maybe a little more. As long as its done right, ill be happy as a lark.

Sum - will it be a TonePump rewired to have a balance knob instead of the two volumes?
If that's the case, I'd love to hear your thoughts once you get it up & running.
If I end up keeping my white Euro, I will definitely ditch my old non-trim TonePump for a vol/balance/trim TonePump. I'd really like to install a USA 9-volt circuit, but it doesn't look they will ever be available, and I'm tired of waiting...
 
Sum - will it be a TonePump rewired to have a balance knob instead of the two volumes?
If that's the case, I'd love to hear your thoughts once you get it up & running.
If I end up keeping my white Euro, I will definitely ditch my old non-trim TonePump for a vol/balance/trim TonePump. I'd really like to install a USA 9-volt circuit, but it doesn't look they will ever be available, and I'm tired of waiting...

I'd like to hear about that too. I've basically given up on the TP because I don't like a V/V config.
 
. The 6XL bridge also has intonation screws on it. Another odd thing I just noticed is the B string saddle has some kind of black "shim" glued to the side of it where it would touch the inside of the bridge frame. It actually seems to push the rest of the saddles a little to the side. I took the saddle off to see if I could remove it but it's on there pretty good. I don't know what the reason for this but I'm going to check with PJ and see what he says.

Christian, if you read this, perhaps you could check if your 6XL has this too? Very strange. I should have taken a pic of the saddle while it was off but I was too focused on getting it back on which was kind of a pain in the neck.

EDIT: As usual fast and awesome customer service from Spector. I emailed PJ and put me in touch with Jimmy. In a nutshell, the new bridges have adjustment screws on both sides to push the saddles from the side, but this bridge was a little older and still only has it on one side, so the shim was needed to keep the string from coming too close to the edge, which makes sense. I hadn't even put together that the new 5XL bridge has those screws on both sides but the 6XL didn't. So it seems there are minor adjustments made to the bridges with each batch they get.

mines actually has no shim or gap. it has the intonation screws along with the side screws to lock the bridge
 
So did the preamp just add volume? I always wondered how much of that Spector sound sits in the preamp. I am just in the process to upgrade an Epi Thunderbird with EMG TBDC pickups and also thought about adding a tonepump. I'd love to hear your thoughts.


I would say the alot of the "Classic Spector Tone" does come from the EMG's themselves.
The Spector 9V Circuit (Haz) or Haz copy or Spector TonePump Pre will add Growl and grind to the tone.

If you haven't seen this video regarding the Tonepump check it out. It will explain how the Tonepump works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=b9x1TNtUKI0#t=107

Sum - will it be a TonePump rewired to have a balance knob instead of the two volumes?
If that's the case, I'd love to hear your thoughts once you get it up & running.
If I end up keeping my white Euro, I will definitely ditch my old non-trim TonePump for a vol/balance/trim TonePump. I'd really like to install a USA 9-volt circuit, but it doesn't look they will ever be available, and I'm tired of waiting...

Rich,

The Tonepump with the Trim will be a big change in the Tone of your Euro. Once the Trim is lowered down to 30-50% the bass and treble will sound much different then the non-trim version.

Regarding the USA 9-volt circuits, I was speaking to PJ about that today.

Remember they are hand made by HAZ Labs and the components in the circuit are getting harder to get in. They barely get enough in for new NS-2's so that is why there are no extras at this point.

P.S. while I was on the phone with him he had to go since he got a message from Todd for a new order.
I assume that was for your bass Brad.

Congrats.

I saw that Buckeye in person at he shop and as good as it looks in photos, imagine it 10 times better in person. You will be very happy.

O may be in the market for a Spector soon.

As we discussed this is one of my missions in life, to get you playing a Spector. You have been the most difficult "John" to please. :hiding: ;)
 
Rich,

The Tonepump with the Trim will be a big change in the Tone of your Euro. Once the Trim is lowered down to 30-50% the bass and treble will sound much different then the non-trim version.

Regarding the USA 9-volt circuits, I was speaking to PJ about that today.

Remember they are hand made by HAZ Labs and the components in the circuit are getting harder to get in. They barely get enough in for new NS-2's so that is why there are no extras at this point.

Thanks Sam.
Since I already have an NS-2 (and the associated killer tone), I think you are correct - I could be very happy with a trim TonePump installed in 'ol Whitey. :bassist:
 
Sounds like they are testing everything out!


Yes. They are doing a superb job.


Sum - will it be a TonePump rewired to have a balance knob instead of the two volumes?
If that's the case, I'd love to hear your thoughts once you get it up & running.
If I end up keeping my white Euro, I will definitely ditch my old non-trim TonePump for a vol/balance/trim TonePump. I'd really like to install a USA 9-volt circuit, but it doesn't look they will ever be available, and I'm tired of waiting...

I'd like to hear about that too. I've basically given up on the TP because I don't like a V/V config.

Well when I initially installed it, Cooper had a pic of the plum euro he bought from Jaymi. It had a blend knob in it. I installed one in mine, but I did a piss poor job of soldering. I thought it was a problem with my wiring but come to find out, my input jack was bad and the tonepump was bad. And my wiring job was bad. :hiding: I'll post some pics of it when I get it back.
 
So...I think I'm going to keep my ReBop. I haven't been playing it recently, and put it up for sale. Since then, I haven't really put it down.

I think I'm going to give it a couple "upgrades". I'm going to take the pre-amp back to 9v, instead of 18v, I'm going to add a Trimpump, and it's going to get a bridge with intonation screws.

That being said, I want to change the truss rod out. Currently, I've had to shim it to get any play from the rod and it feels like it needs another shim. Has anyone swapped out truss rods before? Is it easy to do?
 
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