SPECTOR® Club - Part 66

[bunkaroo]

The NS-4 is a more modern take on the NS-2. As is the Euro4LX. Stuart really tries to experiment with the Bolt-Ons and other models. He sincerely tries to keep the NS-2 as close to the original as possible. Realizing that it's a classic and people want them because of that classic 1980's tone.

You know, I was playing all the Spectors this weekend as I set them all up with Lo-Riders, and once again, I found myself liking the 18v sound with the DC's over the P/J with 9v. Not by much, but if I had to pick one, I would pick the 18v/DC combo. That's what happened to me last year this time when I compared the Forte w/9v I had to the 5XL with the 18v/DC.

I love my UV 5XL to death and I'm glad I got the config I did on it. It's a unique bass. But I don't see myself ever ordering another US bass with the 9v. If I ever order another 5XL, it will be 18v/DC's all the way, like the NS-4.

Regardless, I am not the least bit offended by either statement. I designed that bloody paint job and it's not something I'd play - thus after sitting in the corner for a year I sold it to Bunk because that bass SHOULD be played.

And played it has been!

It's been my main player up until the "Summer of Spector Insanity" as I like to call it. I'm still very torn about moving it. I'll be honest, I want to move away from representing the blood look in the band right now and would like my UV 5XL or 6XL to be my main players. But the bass is just so comfortable and easy to play, and it's just different enough in tone that I feel like I may always have a place for it. At the very least it can be my backup bass for gigs, especially where I don't want to risk bringing out two of the US basses.

It will probably take some major SAS in the future for me to move it I think. My fretless money has been set aside for a while so I'm pretty much "paid up" as far as my builds go this year, so I don't have to have the money right now. But you know how it goes...

 

[awilkie84]

change out a truss rod? naah , spector necks are some of the most stable out there. whats the set up issue? the neck pocket on the rebop is also ridiculously tight.

There's more relief in the neck than I'd like. I need to tighten the truss rod, but I can't unless I add washers to the truss nut.
I remember hearing that the necks were designed to allow the truss rod to come out and a new one to be inserted.

I think it may need a fret leveling in the 2nd octave, too.

 

[delucajohn2000]

There's more relief in the neck than I'd like. I need to tighten the truss rod, but I can't unless I add washers to the truss nut.
I remember hearing that the necks were designed to allow the truss rod to come out and a new one to be inserted.

I think it may need a fret leveling in the 2nd octave, too.

Must be a Rebop thing since I am having pretty much the exact same issue. This is definitely not a setup problem and keep in mind, my Rebop is from 2002.

 

[thisSNsucks]

There's more relief in the neck than I'd like. I need to tighten the truss rod, but I can't unless I add washers to the truss nut.
I remember hearing that the necks were designed to allow the truss rod to come out and a new one to be inserted.

I think it may need a fret leveling in the 2nd octave, too.

Ever clamp the neck back and then adjust the rod? Sometimes truss rods need a little help.

Here's basically what you do:

Loosen the strings and the truss rod all the way.
Then put two spacer blocks on the ends of the fingerboard and lay a long level or flat steel bar across them.
Using a C clamp, you clamp the bar to the neck and tighten the neck into a little bit of a backbow.
Then tighten the truss rod up snug.
You might want to let it sit like that for a bit, sometimes it helps, sometimes its not necessary.
Remove the clamp and string it back up.

Essentially you're hoping the neck stays in a backbow so you can then loosen it to perfect relief once you're all strung up.

I've done it a few times with good results. If you look up stewmac or dan erlewine truss rod, you'll probably get a detailed run through.

 

[awilkie84]

Ever clamp the neck back and then adjust the rod? Sometimes truss rods need a little help.

Here's basically what you do:

Loosen the strings and the truss rod all the way.
Then put two spacer blocks on the ends of the fingerboard and lay a long level or flat steel bar across them.
Using a C clamp, you clamp the bar to the neck and tighten the neck into a little bit of a backbow.
Then tighten the truss rod up snug.
You might want to let it sit like that for a bit, sometimes it helps, sometimes its not necessary.
Remove the clamp and string it back up.

Essentially you're hoping the neck stays in a backbow so you can then loosen it to perfect relief once you're all strung up.

I've done it a few times with good results. If you look up stewmac or dan erlewine truss rod, you'll probably get a detailed run through.

The truss nut's not stuck. It just turns & turns & turns & doesn't do anything more than what I've got it at. I can get about a credit card & 2 business cards under the 7th fret.

If I do what you've suggested, I think it would just end up backing out to where it was before. The rod doesn't seem to be capable of applying the tension needed.

 

[JPSBassist]

Really? Nobody's changed the truss rod out on their Spector?

Also, it looks like the intonation screw Euro bridges were taken off the store.

Oh, does anyone have an NS-2A they'd trade for a Fender Classic 50s P-bass?

I've changed the truss rod out in one of my Spectors.

The nut on the single-action truss in my NS-2A broke.

I replaced it with a 25" double-action rod (Spectors use a 24" rod now, but the older Kramer models are 25" rods.

It was a fairly simple procedure. You only have to remove the nut. Then grab the truss with some pliers *with the truss completely disengages or at the null point if it is double action - and remove it.
Put the new rod in, check for fit. Put the nut back on and go.

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[grendle]

The truss nut's not stuck. It just turns & turns & turns & doesn't do anything more than what I've got it at. I can get about a credit card & 2 business cards under the 7th fret.

If I do what you've suggested, I think it would just end up backing out to where it was before. The rod doesn't seem to be capable of applying the tension needed.

oh ok , so the rod is broken. thats different all together.

 

[awilkie84]

oh ok , so the rod is broken. thats different all together.

The rod's broken? But, if that was the case, how can I get it to adjust to where it's at now?

Is that going to make the replacement harder? :S

I've changed the truss rod out in one of my Spectors.

The nut on the single-action truss in my NS-2A broke.

I replaced it with a 25" double-action rod (Spectors use a 24" rod now, but the older Kramer models are 25" rods.

It was a fairly simple procedure. You only have to remove the nut. Then grab the truss with some pliers *with the truss completely disengages or at the null point if it is double action - and remove it.
Put the new rod in, check for fit. Put the nut back on and go.

So, this is something I could easily do in my garage, then.
As for the truss rod size, I like the amount of truss nut that shows in your NS-2A. My truss nut's currently about level with the string nut. Is it possible to fit a 25" nut in the 24" basses (assuming my ReBop is a 24")?

 

[dukeisdog]

Looks like I should have my Euro 5 back in the next day or two, feels like it's been gone forever. I've been playing the Rex LOTS though and am still really happy with this bass! It's another heavy one like my Euro 5 and that's really the only downside. I do see myself maybe picking up a Natural Rebop 5 sometime just to have a nice light rehearsal bass. With my back problems the lighter the better, but I wouldn't trade my Spectors for anything!

 

[JPSBassist]

The rod's broken? But, if that was the case, how can I get it to adjust to where it's at now?

Not broken, but stripped. It could be that when you get the truss to that place, the threads are stripped so it spins. OR... depending on the type and design, yes, the head nut could be completely separated from the tension rod. In which case "broken" is an appropriate term.

Is that going to make the replacement harder?

Depends. If the truss is still engaged and there's relief on the neck. YES. You have to get the truss disengaged completely to get it out. If it's got relief or backbow you're not going to get it out of your basses neck without potentially damaging the neck.

So, this is something I could easily do in my garage, then.
As for the truss rod size, I like the amount of truss nut that shows in your NS-2A. My truss nut's currently about level with the string nut. Is it possible to fit a 25" nut in the 24" basses (assuming my ReBop is a 24")?

Once you can get your truss rod out of your bass, measure it.
The truss rod nut extends past the nut of the bass, or it should be there or flush Just as long as the block of the truss rod will fit inside the slot beneath the string nut, you should be OK. The string nut is sort of like a gate, when glued down it won't let the truss rod slide out of the bass.

 

[awilkie84]

Not broken, but stripped. It could be that when you get the truss to that place, the threads are stripped so it spins. OR... depending on the type and design, yes, the head nut could be completely separated from the tension rod. In which case "broken" is an appropriate term.

Ok. That's good to hear.

Depends. If the truss is still engaged and there's relief on the neck. YES. You have to get the truss disengaged completely to get it out. If it's got relief or backbow you're not going to get it out of your basses neck without potentially damaging the neck.

So, get it to the neutral position, take the nut off & pull it out. What year did they start using dual action rods on the ReBop? I don't recall being able to put a backbow on my neck the last time I had the nut off to add washers.

Once you can get your truss rod out of your bass, measure it.
The truss rod nut extends past the nut of the bass, or it should be there or flush Just as long as the block of the truss rod will fit inside the slot beneath the string nut, you should be OK. The string nut is sort of like a gate, when glued down it won't let the truss rod slide out of the bass.

So, I need to take my nut off, too? If I'm doing that, I might as well order a brass Euro nut, too.

 

[JPSBassist]

So, get it to the neutral position, take the nut off & pull it out. What year did they start using dual action rods on the ReBop? I don't recall being able to put a backbow on my neck the last time I had the nut off to add washers.

I'm not sure what year they started with those. Honestly it's only been in the last few years. The Euros I've owned have always had single-action rods. And only the most recent Euro I've gotten, which was last month, Serial# NB11,982 - has had a double-action rod.

So, I need to take my nut off, too? If I'm doing that, I might as well order a brass Euro nut, too.

Yes. Nut off. I take a q-tip and put a little acetone (fingernail polish remover) and go over the outside edge of the nut, making sure to wipe the excess acetone off the finish immediately. Let it sit about 5 minutes and the nut should pop right off. Nuts are usually held in place with a couple of drops of super-glue. And low-and-behold, acetone is a great super-glue remover.

You might as well order the brass nut if you want.

The great thing about your bass is that being a ReBop, it's a bolt-on. And if for some reason your bass's neck was totally messed up, you can replace it.

It's the neck-thru and set-neck models that you have to really be careful with. Ruin a neck-thru Spector's neck and you own a very expensive piece of decoration.

 

[awilkie84]

I'm not sure what year they started with those. Honestly it's only been in the last few years. The Euros I've owned have always had single-action rods. And only the most recent Euro I've gotten, which was last month, Serial# NB11,982 - has had a double-action rod.



Yes. Nut off. I take a q-tip and put a little acetone (fingernail polish remover) and go over the outside edge of the nut, making sure to wipe the excess acetone off the finish immediately. Let it sit about 5 minutes and the nut should pop right off. Nuts are usually held in place with a couple of drops of super-glue. And low-and-behold, acetone is a great super-glue remover.

You might as well order the brass nut if you want.

The great thing about your bass is that being a ReBop, it's a bolt-on. And if for some reason your bass's neck was totally messed up, you can replace it.

It's the neck-thru and set-neck models that you have to really be careful with. Ruin a neck-thru Spector's neck and you own a very expensive piece of decoration.

That's the other thing I've been humming & hawing over. IF my P-bass sells, I might just swap the neck for a maple board with black blocks. Nobody seems to be able to give me an answer on what colour (if any) the neck would be where it attaches to the body.

 

[johnsonabq]

Yes. Nut off. I take a q-tip and put a little acetone (fingernail polish remover) and go over the outside edge of the nut, making sure to wipe the excess acetone off the finish immediately. Let it sit about 5 minutes and the nut should pop right off. Nuts are usually held in place with a couple of drops of super-glue. And low-and-behold, acetone is a great super-glue remover.

Does Spector sell brass nuts for a Euro4 to be set up BEAD?

 

[bunkaroo]

Does Spector sell brass nuts for a Euro4 to be set up BEAD?

I think they just file them at the shop if you request a setup that way.

 

[jnumme]

I just picked these up today to compliment my Spectors !!

 

[johnsonabq]

I think they just file them at the shop if you request a setup that way.

I was thinking in terms of modding a bass I already have. I don't want to file the original nut in case I want to go back. Don't even know if I'd like a BEAD set up but there's only one way to find out.

 

[johnsonabq]

I just picked these up today to compliment my Spectors !!

Excellent Jody!

 

[catcauphonic]

I've been missing lots of these Spector Threads this summer, as I'm spending way less time on the Net while it's so nice outside.

I've seen several posts regarding neck size recently. Specifically the concerns about the USA necks being quite thick for comfort. I'm playing a Forte-X dated 10/11/10, & although I haven't had the pleasure of playing more than a half a dozen different Spectors in the past, I can tell you that the neck at the nut on mine is way closer to a J than a P. It's really comfy and fast. Here's a few pics taken a few weeks ago when we were house/dog/cats/plants sitting at the 'bass' of Mount Si ... 30min east of Seattle.

PS- Ice, I hope you're getting better by the minute

 

[stephen3547]

Do legends count? I put real EMGs in mine and I LOVE it. Thinking about getting some of those fake abalone inlays from creative cuts, what do you guys think of those?