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What model is it?
I believe this was the change up year and some basses had been made in Brooklyn even when Kramer was starting up. Best to find the serial number and email it to [email protected]
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
I was going to say that when you first posted. If the HSC says Kramer then I'll bet it's early Kramer.
Also what Carey said. Contact PJ.
Thank's for the info.
That number is close to the transition I believe, you might be surprised but it is a toss up (I thought the last Brooklyn was around 1153 but don't quote me...ask PJ). The company was still Kramer even if Stuart was building basses at the Brooklyn facility during 1986, he still built the basses for Kramer until they folded in the early 90's!
Also, there were some basses that were started in Brooklyn and completed in Neptune New Jersey. But, as the other guys said, PJ will have the exact answer
I asked a few of our Spector friends and Todd has said that the last Brooklyn in the record books is serial number 1187...hope this helps!
Great eye! Why yes that is!I'm a total Ellefson fan. I've only owned the Alex Webster 5-string before... but for some reason the neck on this one feels much thinner, smaller... and I can play it without getting freaked-out by the extra string.
Me too!
We're currently playing about 98% original material, but we still pull out "Symphony" and "Trust" occasionally.
So made in Brooklyn but under Kramer ownership. This bass is killer! Sounds nothing like the euros I've owned. Maybe because it's a fretless? I have round wounds on her now and it has tons of growl and mwah.
The fretboard has no signs of damage from rounds. The previous owner said he only had flats on her but put the rounds on to keep tension on as he was selling it due to financial difficulties.
I want to preserve the board as it is but the rounds sound so great!
The fretboard has no signs of damage from rounds. The previous owner said he only had flats on her but put the rounds on to keep tension on as he was selling it due to financial difficulties.
I want to preserve the board as it is but the rounds sound so great!
Yes, transition year bass but 1033 is a Brooklyn my friend!!! I put D'Addario Chromes on my fretless bass (ECB81), they are flat wound strings with a higher tension...I was concerned about changing from round wound strings but these are bright and sound great!
While I was asking Todd about the Brooklyn serial numbers he mentioned to me that the Guitar House is having a Spector sale through Christmas...All Spector basses on the Guitar House of Tulsa webb site are 10% off (I checked the site and he has just about everything, even some Legend basses for the guys thinking of doing a fretless modification!), if anyone is interested please tell him that your a member of the Talkbass Spector club. His number at the store is (918) 835-6959
Hmmm...you've sparked my interest brother. Now to find one to try before I buy as I know they're very costly. They sell for more than most Spector basses. Thank you Grendle!
You know it!Yes... an ebony fingerboard with no lines or dots. Pick up a gently used Legend and slap that on. I could handle that!
Like a sky filled with Angels playing basses!
Yes! That's it...it's a natural tone.
Come on Donny! Jump aboard the fretless train!
Looking forward to seeing the first NS-4MM! A 5r is awesome to have...especially a 35" scale.
A question about soldering... after changing my non-trim TP for a trim TP I feel like the bite of the tone has gone a bit. It has nothing to do with the volume of the trim pot, It's the same tone low or full volume. The Bass still has plenty of sparkle and treble, but the lower notes seem to have less bite. This could be a string issue, maybe it's because the new rebop with new proSteels has just a lot more bite? The Euro LX carries Daddario nickels atm, so there is a bit less bite and treble to be expected, but I have the impression it has to do with the new TP.
Is it possible that I have done an error with the soldering? It sounds all nice and defnitiely good, no "artifacts" or drop outs in bass signal. Is it possible that I did a soldering in a bad way, but not bad enough to be what we in GER call "cold solder", when a soldering basically does not work at all or very poorly? Maybe someone has experience with that.
Is it possible that I have done an error with the soldering? It sounds all nice and defnitiely good, no "artifacts" or drop outs in bass signal. Is it possible that I did a soldering in a bad way, but not bad enough to be what we in GER call "cold solder", when a soldering basically does not work at all or very poorly? Maybe someone has experience with that.
UGH! A bad chest cold set in this weekend and I have a benefit to play/sing at this afternoon @2:30. 
. Woke up this morning with energy drained...
. Woke up this morning with energy drained...
UGH! A bad chest cold set in this weekend and I have a benefit to play/sing at this afternoon @2:30.
OUCH....hope you get to feeling better! Might have to get your wife to sing for you today buddy.
A cold solder joint is always a possibility, especially if it's a through-hole joint. Definitely worth re-inspection. Make sure your soldering iron is getting hot enough, and use leaded wire, if possible. It has a much lower liquidus temp than lead-free.
UGH! A bad chest cold set in this weekend and I have a benefit to play/sing at this afternoon @2:30.
Airborne chewables, rest and plenty of water... stay hydrated.
Dude... take care of yourself.
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