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SPECTOR® Owners Club

#87,541
frankie5string said:
Yassss the new S-Locks. They're a major improvement over the old ones. The buttons are shaped differently, so they don't rattle, and the locking nut assembly pretty much fixes everything that ever went wrong with the original Schallers. The only issue remaining is that the buttons have a screw built in, so if you need longer screws you have to order the buttons with longer screws separately.
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It's the kind i always get, but I haven't tried these newer ones yet
 
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#87,542
AudioTaper said:
Those are my go-to straplocks. The new design (the ones you posted) have longer threaded portions for thick straps, have a larger nut and the nut has a set screw. The Dunlops are nice, but I feel like these are extra secure due to the U shaped section that goes around the strap button on the bass. The locking tab has a strong spring that pushes a steel locking tab into the top of the button.
The Dunlops rely on spring pressure to keep ball bearings pressed into grooves. They are really popular, but I like the Schaller design better.
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Yes. These are the kind i have always got, but not since they upgraded them... Not sure why I have waited so long to get them for this bass.
 
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#87,544
Mikewhittaker said:
What subject can I get started next.... Hmmm lol. I am looking at strap locks too and thinking about these onesView attachment 4440007
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I personally prefer the Dunlop's all day long. I prefer the anchor style over the shallers. I don't have 1 or 2 primary gig basses… and haven't gigged in too long so I very rarely wish I had locks and with that the pin side is 1000% for putting a strap on sans lock. That said, with out question if I got to a gig and didn't have the locks on I wouldn't stress about it all.
 
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#87,548
I myself personally, like the Diago Twistlocks, very low unobtrusive profile so they don't snag on anything &
have a
_DSC1929.JPG
large contact area to accommodate those worn sloppy slits in older straps. I managed to find a job
lot & have a number of them still available, for anyone interested, check out the classifieds.
 
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#87,551
Katoosie said:
Try adjusting the tighteness of that little screw on the side once you've set it all up, after doing that they don't move in any way for me.
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He has the old design, theres no set screw just a hex nut.
20211016_100420.jpg


I used to get them as tight as I could, then put wicking threadlocker on the nut to try to keep it in place. The new ones were a welcome change
 
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#87,553
AudioTaper said:
He has the old design, theres no set screw just a hex nut. View attachment 4440155

I used to get them as tight as I could, then put wicking threadlocker on the nut to try to keep it in place. The new ones were a welcome change
Click to expand...
I still use Lok-Tite Blue on the threads of mine. But all my Straps use them. No complaints.
 
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#87,557
I've got several sets of the old design and one of the new design. The new ones seem to work fine other than your basically jamming the set screw into the threads. I haven't had the need to mess with them but it seems like it could be an issue if you ever need to screw the nut off and on again to change straps or something. I always check the nuts on the old design pretty regularly for tightness. Wouldn't be a bad idea if you had several sets of the old design to double nut it. I know, there's a joke in there somewhere.
 
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#87,559
For those who have the tone pump preamp. What setting you usually use on the internal trim dial? I have line set around 30-40% and holy f is it still buzzy and not clean.

Is there a trick with how you also set the bass and treble knobs to keep the tone rather clean?

I'm used to me MEC pickups and pre on my warwicks for comparison.
 

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