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Spector Club - Part 12

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I would agree that having both the newer TP and the USA 9v Circuit (Haz) side-by-side, that the original has a richer, warmer tone that I like better. But honestly not enough for me to want to replace the two TP-based guitars I have with the very costly USA 9v.

I'd also agree that the first generation TP lacked some refinements that the newer version does and it was sort of a mixed bag... that some of the older units came from the Czech factory sounding great... others not so much. Which was the main motivating factor for the update and change in 2008.

In all I think the TP is a great circuit and holds its own against many other JFET-based circuits on the market, namely the Aguilar OBP circuits... and they're great circuits... but I like the grit and growl you can get from the TP.

Still, I like the idea that you can get a Euro LX for around $1800 and upgrade it with the USA 9v preamp for around $350, and wind up with something that sounds as good as a USA bass for around half the price.
 
I would agree that having both the newer TP and the USA 9v Circuit (Haz) side-by-side, that the original has a richer, warmer tone that I like better. But honestly not enough for me to want to replace the two TP-based guitars I have with the very costly USA 9v.

I'd also agree that the first generation TP lacked some refinements that the newer version does and it was sort of a mixed bag... that some of the older units came from the Czech factory sounding great... others not so much. Which was the main motivating factor for the update and change in 2008.

In all I think the TP is a great circuit and holds its own against many other JFET-based circuits on the market, namely the Aguilar OBP circuits... and they're great circuits... but I like the grit and growl you can get from the TP.

My TonePump-based Euro 5LX sounds no doubt hands down better than my OBP-3-based Ibanez. Some of that difference my come from the Spector's quality of construction or EMG pickups, but the Ibanez is definitely the "backup" bass.
 
peledog said:
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Wow, almost want to get it just to 'mod' - maybe refinish it.

200 bones for a Rebop?

No kidding!!! :eek: If it wasn't for those stickers and some bad chips I'd consider it and flip it. You could more than triple your money back if it was in better condition. That'd put me closer to my next SPECTOR, made in USA!!!
 
streetknight said:
Is there a way to tell what model and if it is a US made Sector? I saw one in a shop a while back, but didn't really know what it was at the time, want to go check it out this week...I know it was used and they wanted 700 for it....TIA

It'll say on back of the headstock, "Made in USA".
 
Still, I like the idea that you can get a Euro LX for around $1800 and upgrade it with the USA 9v preamp for around $350, and wind up with something that sounds as good as a USA bass for around half the price.

It's not quite that simple... Yes, you can get a new Euro for around $1,800 and have the USA Circuit put in it for $350 and end up with something that's about 80% as nice as the USA Models for 1/2 the price.

You'd have the same neck (the rock maple necks for all neck-thru Euro models are sent to the Czech Republic from NY), even though the shape is slightly different and you'd have the same tone circuit (with the USA 9v Upgrade).

But...

The wood used on the USA models is home-grown AAAA and AAAAA maple. It's superior to the European woods used in the wings of the Euro models.

The fingerboards for USA are Pau Ferro or Birdseye Maple, which I've found to be much nicer than the local European Rosewood used in the Euro models. The main difference being the size of the wood grain and pores. The USA woods seal flawlessly.

The USA Hardware is solid premium brass with 14K gold electroplate. The Gotoh Tuners are nicer than Schallers, basically because they have a thicker shaft and better turning ratio, meaning more control when fine-tuning.

And lastly the finishes, which are all hand-applied on both USA and Euro models... the USA models are just usually that much more flawless...

It's little things... and the Euro Basses are awesome, hand-made European Basses. And to get 80% for 50% is a deal any way you slice it.

But to be fair, dress a Euro up in it's finest suit and you've got the executive for any number of locally-owned small banks in your area. Nothing to scoff at.

But the USA models are like to top executives from the biggest bank in the world. And no matter how you slice it, set them up side-by-side and you'll easily be able to tell who is the Chairman of the Board.

:-)
 
peledog said:
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Wow, almost want to get it just to 'mod' - maybe refinish it.

200 bones for a Rebop?

Sorry its mine now :)

Gold schallers are on the way. Brass machine screw inserts are in for the control cavity screws. Neck edges have been rolled. Adjustable. Brass nut is on the way . Not sure weather its getting a us spector bridge or a gold euro at the moment ....
 
It's not quite that simple... Yes, you can get a new Euro for around $1,800 and have the USA Circuit put in it for $350 and end up with something that's about 80% as nice as the USA Models for 1/2 the price.

You'd have the same neck (the rock maple necks for all neck-thru Euro models are sent to the Czech Republic from NY), even though the shape is slightly different and you'd have the same tone circuit (with the USA 9v Upgrade).

But...

The wood used on the USA models is home-grown AAAA and AAAAA maple. It's superior to the European woods used in the wings of the Euro models.

The fingerboards for USA are Pau Ferro or Birdseye Maple, which I've found to be much nicer than the local European Rosewood used in the Euro models. The main difference being the size of the wood grain and pores. The USA woods seal flawlessly.

The USA Hardware is solid premium brass with 14K gold electroplate. The Gotoh Tuners are nicer than Schallers, basically because they have a thicker shaft and better turning ratio, meaning more control when fine-tuning.

And lastly the finishes, which are all hand-applied on both USA and Euro models... the USA models are just usually that much more flawless...

It's little things... and the Euro Basses are awesome, hand-made European Basses. And to get 80% for 50% is a deal any way you slice it.

But to be fair, dress a Euro up in it's finest suit and you've got the executive for any number of locally-owned small banks in your area. Nothing to scoff at.

But the USA models are like to top executives from the biggest bank in the world. And no matter how you slice it, set them up side-by-side and you'll easily be able to tell who is the Chairman of the Board.

:-)

I think that makes total sense Patrick. After hearing some of the sound clips posted with the USA 9V circuit, I really am considering picking up a Euro XL and adding this circuit to it but I personally didn't expect it to be the equivalent of an NS-2.

I am a huge fan of Mike Starr and Eddie Jackson's tones from back in the day so if this option can get me close to that, I am all for it :) But even still, I loved the clips that were posted so having that tone along with the Tone Pump Euro I have now would just be nice. If anything, it will just make me want more Spector basses :bassist: This of course doesn't even include the Alex Webster signature model I want as well so if I keep it up, I am going to start getting into Limaguy territory :D
 
It's not quite that simple... Yes, you can get a new Euro for around $1,800 and have the USA Circuit put in it for $350 and end up with something that's about 80% as nice as the USA Models for 1/2 the price.

You'd have the same neck (the rock maple necks for all neck-thru Euro models are sent to the Czech Republic from NY), even though the shape is slightly different and you'd have the same tone circuit (with the USA 9v Upgrade).

But...

The wood used on the USA models is home-grown AAAA and AAAAA maple. It's superior to the European woods used in the wings of the Euro models.

The fingerboards for USA are Pau Ferro or Birdseye Maple, which I've found to be much nicer than the local European Rosewood used in the Euro models. The main difference being the size of the wood grain and pores. The USA woods seal flawlessly.

The USA Hardware is solid premium brass with 14K gold electroplate. The Gotoh Tuners are nicer than Schallers, basically because they have a thicker shaft and better turning ratio, meaning more control when fine-tuning.

And lastly the finishes, which are all hand-applied on both USA and Euro models... the USA models are just usually that much more flawless...

It's little things... and the Euro Basses are awesome, hand-made European Basses. And to get 80% for 50% is a deal any way you slice it.

But to be fair, dress a Euro up in it's finest suit and you've got the executive for any number of locally-owned small banks in your area. Nothing to scoff at.

But the USA models are like to top executives from the biggest bank in the world. And no matter how you slice it, set them up side-by-side and you'll easily be able to tell who is the Chairman of the Board.

:-)

While I don't expect my Euro Doug Wimbish Signature to be on par with a USA NS-2 by putting the Hazlab into it, I am saving for an American made, my thought is that I love this bass, I want to make it as awesome as possible, and someday when I get my American NS-2, I will have a great backup. I love the looks and feel of my Dougie (What I call my bass) and don't think I can get rid of it, but who knows, maybe once I play an NS-2 it will blow me away so much Dougie won't get much play, then I figure it will be easier to sell to someone in the know.

I am also playing with the idea of getting an American Bridge put on it, I like the idea of intonation screws, but I don't know if I want someone routing Dougie for it to fit...
 
I have one Rebop with 40DC's in it...
and I may have another with Hz's that will need to be replaced. I want this one to be sonically a 'bit' different than the first rather than a sonic duplicate.

Anyone put EMG 40 TW's in theirs for a Dual Coil / Single Coil option?

And I wonder what the difference is between 40 TW's and 40 TWX's? Looks like the TWX's are more vintage sounding or mellower?

Was also contemplating putting Barts in the second. :: gasp ::


Thoughts?
 
I have one Rebop with 40DC's in it...
and I may have another with Hz's that will need to be replaced. I want this one to be sonically a 'bit' different than the first rather than a sonic duplicate.

Anyone put EMG 40 TW's in theirs for a Dual Coil / Single Coil option?

And I wonder what the difference is between 40 TW's and 40 TWX's? Looks like the TWX's are more vintage sounding or mellower?

Was also contemplating putting Barts in the second. :: gasp ::


Thoughts?

I put a 40P5 in the neck with a 40DC in the bridge of my Rex5 and IMO its much different sonically while still sounding like a Rex5... if that makes sense?
 
Hi TB,
Looking for Spector (Kramer era) NS-2 USA. Any color.
Any leads would be appreciated.
Thanks

Just so happens, this was just listed on ebay.

1986 Spector NS-2 Bass Natural | eBay

Since there are some not usual specs on this one.
It should be bringing alot of conversation tonight along with alot of GAS. ;)
 
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JPS,
Are you located near this guy?

Can you go tell him he is out of his mind with these prices and sales pitch, and not even actual photos. LOL :rollno: :spit:

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Sorry I just had to vent, after not even getting one bite on my ReBop except for someone trying to offer me $425 on ebay. :mad: And I had tons of photos.

But I have decided to keep it. I have a BT Control on the way from diechris. I already removed the non-trim Tonepump and I have it as a "passive" Vol-Vol-Tone at the moment. I was joking, its like an old Jazz bass on steroids.

I will record a clip later.
 
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