• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Spector Club - Part 12

Status
Not open for further replies.
madbassplaya said:
Very cool man! I'm new to the Spector scene so I'm learning what all these numbers mean! :)
You really should if you haven't already visit www.spectorbass.com/history. You'll not only be drooling a lot, so have a cloth ready to wipe down your computer, you'll get an incredible Spector education. JPS did an incredible job putting it together!

madbassplaya said:
You could post some pics for starters! ;)
You gotta show pictures, Trace will want pictures before giving you the club membership number.

Thundar said:
You wanna see a beautiful Green Spector?
This was my old NS5CR.....sadly, now it belongs to XtraLongScale, after a short stint with Bobunit.

Oooooh....I do remember that beauty! Slobber slobber. Excellent quilted maple!
 
Hey everyone!

I ordered a new USA SPECTOR® bridge... I'm calling the ones with the saddle height adjustment screws in the front a version 2.0 Intonation Bridge. Nothing official... just what I'm calling them.

My USA NS-4™ Water Cured Redwood bass came with a Version 1.0... offset screws. And yes... you can wear the finish on a USA model if you rest your palm on it because you have a pick addiction such as I do.

Because my new "daily player" NS-2™ is coming with the old non intonation screw USA bridge and I've worn the finish on the Version 1.0 bridge. I decided to put a fresh Version 2.0 bridge on my NS-4™, wax it really well, remove the batteries and put it in long-term storage. The Redwood is soft and it dents/scratches easily and so far my bass is still pristine and I want to keep it that way. I'll install my more "worn" Version 1.0 bridge on my new NS-2™ when it arrives.

And I think I'm going to put that NS-2™ old-non-intonation version on my NS-2A. :bassist: Which also means swapping the Schaller Tuners out.

My "Daily Player" will be the bass I play and I enjoy without worrying that I'm damaging something very rare.

Also, this weekend The Black Pearl has been with me 3 weeks. So it was OK to wax and polish her for the first time. You Legend and Euro owners are OK to wax/polish your bass the moment you get it because it's almost always more than 3 weeks from the time it's finished until it gets into your hands.

But USA models are usually to you within a week of being finished. So you have to let the gloss clear coat harden before you wax/polish it.

So... I did a bridge swap and polish on both my "girls" this weekend. And I discovered something really cool under the bridge of both.

I have a security system on my house. And I live in a nice neighborhood... so I don't worry about someone ever breaking in and taking my basses (which would go first I'm sure). Get into my house and Lord forbid anyone is home. My wife, a former Federal Agent, is a shoot first ask questions later sort of gal, and I'm even less friendly to uninvited guests. It's a Southern thing I guess. :D

But if they ever did... regardless of the serial on the headstock... I can ALWAYS prove I own these basses. Stuart wrote my name under the bridge into the wood. And that's not special in itself... anyone order a custom USA SPECTOR® and he always writes the name of the person that orders it on the neck as the guitar is being finished. I've seen this a 1000 times... but I forgot about it and when I took the bridge off my guitars and saw my name I thought, "How cool is that?"

Anyway... detailed photos and dimensions for the USA Bridge including measurements for the routing/body insert are coming shortly.
Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed
 
Ease of use, I would say. With time, you learn how to adjust it and even out the saddle height. Inline just makes sense from the get-go, and is easier to level out the bridge. IMO offset saddle screws should never be a deal breaker, just something to consider.
 
Is there an advantage/disadvantage to having the saddle level (i.e. both screws at the same height) versus having it tilt to one side or the other?

Stability. Me personally, I want my saddles sitting level so that there's not a tendency for them to rock unevenly. Sure you lock the bridge down, but it just seems more stable to me if they're even. Also, the saddle is "Coupled" better to the bridge base, which probably helps a string be more resonant. Does it for sure? I have no idea...but it makes sense.
 
Is there an advantage/disadvantage to having the saddle level (i.e. both screws at the same height) versus having it tilt to one side or the other?

Personally, I don't like the saddles being even or level because the witness point is less defined. I angle mine back so that the witness point (where the strings contact the saddle) is sharp. It helps with intonation.

Once the saddles are locked down, they aren't going to move, so there's no need to worry about stability - unless you don't actually lock them down tight. Of course, you can over-tighten and strip the set screw hole, so you have to be careful.
 
You wanna see a beautiful Green Spector?
This was my old NS5CR.....sadly, now it belongs to XtraLongScale, after a short stint with Bobunit.
Spector_1182.jpg


Yes, it's a pretty one. It's in good hands with XLS. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.