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Spector Club (Part 2)

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#701
jdbrewst said:
Dear Spector lovers,

I'm now the proud owner of a Spector Euro LX5 Ultra Amber. I'm looking to find a good hard case, however, as you'll know, given the curved body it can be tricky to find one deep enough.

Options seem limited here in the UK (official Spector cases don't seem to be available). I just bought a UK made Hiscox Standard Bass case with a 2.5 inch depth. All other dimensions are great except for the depth, which means that when I close it I can hear it pushing the strings down over the pickups.

My question to you veterans is a) do I risk damaging the bass sticking with this and b) if yes, then do you know of any cases which will be a better fit?

If you have any ideas please feel free to PM or reply here.


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Nice bass :D

I have the exact same one, same colour and everything.
 
#702
jdbrewst said:
Dear Spector lovers,

I'm now the proud owner of a Spector Euro LX5 Ultra Amber. I'm looking to find a good hard case, however, as you'll know, given the curved body it can be tricky to find one deep enough.

Options seem limited here in the UK (official Spector cases don't seem to be available). I just bought a UK made Hiscox Standard Bass case with a 2.5 inch depth. All other dimensions are great except for the depth, which means that when I close it I can hear it pushing the strings down over the pickups.

My question to you veterans is a) do I risk damaging the bass sticking with this and b) if yes, then do you know of any cases which will be a better fit?

If you have any ideas please feel free to PM or reply here.


Link Removed
Click to expand...
I have a Warwick case that fits my Euro5 perfectly...check around to see if you can find a used one.It's the one that has the hard plastic with the metal trimming.
 
#704
ok, so i have my 40p5 (showed up in the mail today) and i will have a 40tw sent to me next week. i obviously want to take advantage or the single/double coil... but dang those are some expensive pots. anyone either have a 25k p/p pot laying around you're not using or know where i can get one that is reasonably priced? best i could find with a quick look was stewmac for $13.00. i looked at mouser but i didn't have an luck. they went from 10k ot 50k and skipped right over the 25k p/p's.

any help or do i have to drop $15.00+ (once shipping is included) to be able to split the coils?
 
#706
stanger503 said:
well heres some action videos. i threw these up in the you on youtube thread too but i doubt everyone goes there too. the first one is called "silence and sorries" the second was recorded last night and is called "plan b" hope you like it :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk1bJHAU0Jc&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trU2ppWP7Fs&feature=channel_page

haha dont mind the few mistakes
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Hey, sounds and looks great! You can really hear the bass well in those clips.
 
#707
jdbrewst said:
Dear Spector lovers,

I'm now the proud owner of a Spector Euro LX5 Ultra Amber. I'm looking to find a good hard case, however, as you'll know, given the curved body it can be tricky to find one deep enough.

Options seem limited here in the UK (official Spector cases don't seem to be available). I just bought a UK made Hiscox Standard Bass case with a 2.5 inch depth. All other dimensions are great except for the depth, which means that when I close it I can hear it pushing the strings down over the pickups.

My question to you veterans is a) do I risk damaging the bass sticking with this and b) if yes, then do you know of any cases which will be a better fit?

If you have any ideas please feel free to PM or reply here.


Link Removed
Click to expand...

my euro5 lx ex came in a very nice tolex ibanez case. i think it's the kind that they sell with their higher end basses. it is a nice case and seems to fit fairly decently.
 
#710
Question for all you guys. I have the chance to buy a '95 SSD NS-4 US model bass in beat up condition (finish cracks, chips, tarnished tuners, beat up knobs) for $1,000.

Is it worth it? I already have a US NS2 and a NS4CRFM.

Also, regarding the finish cracks, has anyone ever seen the finish crack on the back of the neck from the edge of the fret all the way around the back to the other side? What could cause this? It happens on the 5-6th fret all the way up to the 12-13th??
 
#711
loend68 said:
Question for all you guys. I have the chance to buy a '95 SSD NS-4 US model bass in beat up condition (finish cracks, chips, tarnished tuners, beat up knobs) for $1,000.

Is it worth it? I already have a US NS2 and a NS4CRFM.

Also, regarding the finish cracks, has anyone ever seen the finish crack on the back of the neck from the edge of the fret all the way around the back to the other side? What could cause this? It happens on the 5-6th fret all the way up to the 12-13th??
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Don't do it. You can find another one or a Euro in much, much better condition for less.

As far as the crack on the back of the neck, sounds like a stress fracture but I'm not sure. You may want to post that question in the luthier forum.
 
#712
Well the cracks on the back of the neck are only in the finish. Same as the ones on the body. I've seen it before in older basses. The wood is fine, it's only in the finish.

What causes these cracks anyway? Is it extreme temperature changes?

You're probably right. I may just stick with the two I have. I layed the bass away without seeing it so no one else would grab it. Needless to say I was a little bummed.....
 
#713
I need some help guys.
I have a performer DLX. I like it a lot, but when i got it shipped from US I noticed the action was kind of high for me. The problem is that the string height won't change at all if i move the saddles :hmm:
I think the neck is a bit backbowed too.

I'll post some pics as soon as I get my camera back.
 
#714
Iv@N said:
I need some help guys.
I have a performer DLX. I like it a lot, but when i got it shipped from US I noticed the action was kind of high for me. The problem is that the string height won't change at all if i move the saddles :hmm:
I think the neck is a bit backbowed too.

I'll post some pics as soon as I get my camera back.
Click to expand...

If the Performer bridge is like the Euro bridge then you have to use the hex wrench to loosen the bridges locking mechanism thingy. there should be a small opening on the side of the bridge facing the controls that you can fit the the hex into.

Rotate it in the opposite direction of the neck and it should loosen the saddles. Once that done you can use the wrench to actually change the action. As you lower the action make sure that the gap between the saddles stays as as small as possible. I made the mistake of not paying attention the first time I messed with my bridge and it exploded, lol! the saddles went flying everywhere, luckily no damage was done and everything was in fine working order.

Also, as you lower each saddle apply a little downward pressure to make sure that the screws stabilizing the saddle itself are actually making contact with the "floor" of the bridge. Floating saddles are not a good thing to have.

Hope I helped out a little. :)
 
#715
loend68 said:
Well the cracks on the back of the neck are only in the finish. Same as the ones on the body. I've seen it before in older basses. The wood is fine, it's only in the finish.

What causes these cracks anyway? Is it extreme temperature changes?

You're probably right. I may just stick with the two I have. I layed the bass away without seeing it so no one else would grab it. Needless to say I was a little bummed.....
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That's a bummer, man. Sounds like it's broke in though so you don't have to worry about scratching it. :smug:
 
#716
do i have strap lock strap buttons? the thread about strap locks got me thinking. i have a new (used) rebop and i just thought spector had a funky strap button design. but now i'm wondering if they are strap lock strap buttons. this is what mine looks like.

p26687.jpg


if they are strap lock buttons, is there any place to just get the strap locks that go with them?
 
#717
dean owens said:
do i have strap lock strap buttons? the thread about strap locks got me thinking. i have a new (used) rebop and i just thought spector had a funky strap button design. but now i'm wondering if they are strap lock strap buttons. this is what mine looks like.
if they are strap lock buttons, is there any place to just get the strap locks that go with them?
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Looks like a Dunlop button to me, but I doubt you will be able to purchase the locks only unless you find them used. You could always contact Dunlop customer service.
 
#718
dean owens said:
do i have strap lock strap buttons? the thread about strap locks got me thinking. i have a new (used) rebop and i just thought spector had a funky strap button design. but now i'm wondering if they are strap lock strap buttons. this is what mine looks like.

p26687.jpg


if they are strap lock buttons, is there any place to just get the strap locks that go with them?
Click to expand...
The buttons are nearly free and usually the locks and buttons come together. Just get the Schaller's. I got mine for I think $14 new.
 
#719
Kwesi said:
If the Performer bridge is like the Euro bridge then you have to use the hex wrench to loosen the bridges locking mechanism thingy. there should be a small opening on the side of the bridge facing the controls that you can fit the the hex into.

Rotate it in the opposite direction of the neck and it should loosen the saddles. Once that done you can use the wrench to actually change the action. As you lower the action make sure that the gap between the saddles stays as as small as possible. I made the mistake of not paying attention the first time I messed with my bridge and it exploded, lol! the saddles went flying everywhere, luckily no damage was done and everything was in fine working order.

Also, as you lower each saddle apply a little downward pressure to make sure that the screws stabilizing the saddle itself are actually making contact with the "floor" of the bridge. Floating saddles are not a good thing to have.

Hope I helped out a little. :)
Click to expand...

thanks a lot!
I'll try that and post with my results :)
 
#720
thanks for the strap lock question. i'll be on the look out for the actual lock... no luck with dunlop. they only sell the whole deal. if they sell just the lock it's in a bag of 50 count. a little more than i want.

but i have something to ask you guys. i've got some new pups to put in my rebop and want to get your thoughts. i put a poll thread in the pup/elec page. if you get a chance, read it and give me your thoughts.

thanks
dean
 
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