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Spector Club - Part 7

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I want to replace the nut on my Spector Legend Classic 4 with a brass nut.

Here are some Spector nut examples.

I forgot that I have a custom made brass nut on my fretless NS-2A. As is custom of the NS-2A models, mine
had the graphite/plastic-like black nut on it.

I took the third brass block I had (I bought three, used two making the nut for my Q4-Pro and had one blank left over) to my luthier and he fashioned it using the original NS-2A nut as a template.

Anyway... here are some nut examples. And note that my new Euro4LX-TW-35 in BEAD has a graphite nut. And the slots are "normal" sized because the strings are tapered at the ends... clever. I never noticed that until I took these photos about an hour ago.

That's one way of not having to customize the nuts of the BEAD models. But it limits my string options. The cool thing is that if I want to tune it EADG I can. Nice to know.

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EURO4LX-TW-35 in BEAD
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EURO4LX-CLASSIC
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1988 NS-2A with custom brass nut (lined fretless)
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USA NS-4
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NS-230 30th Anniversary NS-Bass
 
And the slots are "normal" sized because the strings are tapered at the ends... clever. I never noticed that until I took these photos about an hour ago.

That's one way of not having to customize the nuts of the BEAD models. But it limits my string options. The cool thing is that if I want to tune it EADG I can. Nice to know.

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EURO4LX-TW-35 in BEAD
That's not intentional, or at least it shouldn't be.
Someone didn't put the extended range (35"+) strings on that bass and the 2nd winding happened to end up in the nut slot.

Consider it lucky you don't have your open strings grounding out on your first fret with that like that. If the outer winding of a properly lengthed B and E don't still fit in those slots, someone at Spector didn't give you the proper nut for 4 string B tuning.

You are going to find that all string brands are a little inconsistant in length from batch to batch in how far their windings go on the core before termination (within about a half inch or so). You're not always going to get that nice, tidy second winding at the nut with those obviously regular long scale strings (Spector's or otherwise).

I would put a set of properly lengthed (extended scale) strings on there and then do a proper set up, widening the two nut slots if necessary.

EDIT: After looking at the pic again I'm sure the E string slot is already big enough. Probably the B also. Someone at Spector put the wrong strings on there (assuming it came to you like this).
 
That's what the B and E of a set of Spector strings look like at the nut. My guess is that's exactly the way Stuart wants them.
My guess is Stuart is a little short sighted here (He has missed a few obvious things in the past. That's why there was so much wrong and missing info on the old site).

I've never used Spector strings.
Are you trying to tell me that Spector doesn't make a 5 (or 6) string set that is the proper wound length for their 35" 5 and 6 string basses?!?

There are reasons most string manufacturers make proper wound lengths for extended scale basses.
I refuse to believe Spector is this short sighted. :eyebrow:

EDIT:
Well, there are no specific details on the string page. I assumed that Spector automatically would wind their 5 and 6 string sets to a 35" scale since they no longer make (non-special order) 34" 5 (or 6) string basses. You would think they would offer both 34" and 35" in all sets as...
1. Many other manufacturers 5+ stringed instruments are still 34".
2. Many older Spector 5 strings are 34" scale. A 35" set is bad (on a 34" scale) as you will end up with the thick outer winding around the tuning post of your B and possibly E string, causing tuning instability.
3. Spector isn't the only manufacturer to offer 35" scale 4 string basses.

I'd really like to find out the real story here. JPS's string/nut issue is an inadequate oversight, not an advantage.
If all Spector strings are truely only wound for 34" basses, and the 35" 4, 5 and 6 stringers are just suposed to make do, I will never try Spector strings. This would be incredibly short sighted.
 
C'mon Spector people, lets see some of those beautiful basses!

Don't get me wrong, I don't mind seeing JPS's nuts...... :hiding:

But we need some more axes to drool over :bassist:

Wouldn't mind a better look at Captain Arrrg's US B.O. from the first page....
 
Hello again,

I went to download the tonepump schematics for 2 volume controls from the official site, but the pdf includes the volume-balance schematics. ( [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] on the bottom-right it says 2 volume, but it's not that one)

Besides notifying JPSBassist in case he's not aware of this, does anyone have the proper pdf file?

Thanx :)
 
Hello again,

I went to download the tonepump schematics for 2 volume controls from the official site, but the pdf includes the volume-balance schematics. ( [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] on the bottom-right it says 2 volume, but it's not that one)

Besides notifying JPSBassist in case he's not aware of this, does anyone have the proper pdf file?

Thanx :)

There is also Rickett's drawing off of the "tonedump" thread:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428317&highlight=tonedump&page=4

Scroll down to post #77, about 3/4 of the way down the page.
 
There is also Rickett's drawing off of the "tonedump" thread:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428317&highlight=tonedump&page=4

Scroll down to post #77, about 3/4 of the way down the page.

Hugh,
It was actually on page 2, but here's the diagram. I'm trying to remember if it's 100%.....

Tonepumpdiagram.jpg






*edit* it does not show the "Ring", which is the black (or neg) on the battery clip.... Also, the treble and 2 volumes, where the ground wires go over the lug, it gets soldered there as well.


To wire a "blend", wire the pickups to the "blend" then to the volume....using a single volume, minus the other volume to the tonepump. IIRC, the blend will need to be 25k-50k.
 
Of course, the "tonedump" thread, I should have checked that before posting.

I wanted it cos i'm swapping the HZs with a DC and a TW.

Thanx a lot Hugh Jass and Rickett Customs :)

No problem, and thanks to Hugh, I've all but forgotten about that thread ;)

That diagram was before they were posted on Spector's site, so I was about 90% sure it was right...;)



For some reason, i though the TP jr. was a blend and not 2 vol....
 
OK...
Here we go. I call this one, "The Most Righteous of SPECTORS"
Solid figured/burled walnut wings. 30th Aniversary Model. Owned by PJ Rubal. Don't drool on your keyboards. :-)

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I just received an absolutely mint (new to me) Euro LX4. I also have an NS4CRFM w/ the up-to-date Tone Pump.

Three questions...
1. The neck of the LX is thicker than that of the NS4. It just feels like the neck of my USA P. Did Spector change the neck dimension for the LX?
2. The LX is 200-300% louder than the NS4. Is it supposed to be like this? I've never played a bass this loud.
3. The pickup balance knob is continuous, with no center position. Is it supposed to be like this?
 
very beautiful pics :)
why fishs? do you know?

for the euro bass it's the same, it has a big difference between the weight of the LX and the Rebop arround 2lbs I know. That's why I like my Rebop and I have upgrade it like a LX. I use my CS for concert, studio, home and for other it's always my Rebop :smug:
 
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