• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Spector Club - Part 9

Status
Not open for further replies.
Did he just say that's his Spector American made bass? Lolwut
Unless he had a USA Spector made to look just like a Legend 5... ??

Yeah that's been brought up before regarding this (rather old) interview.

More than likely he meant that SPECTOR is an American Company.

It's sort of hard for me to believe he thought that his specific bass was made in the USA considering the "Made in Korea" headstock stamp.
 
JPS...Were you referring to SS rounds being brighter? Because I know SS FW are not bright at all and that's why I prefer them for the deep thunderous tone. And SS FW's are super easy on my fingers and frets. It's like playing on smoooth silk. :D

I was referring to the difference between SPECTOR Nickel and SPECTOR Stainless... the Stainless being slightly brighter.

Rounds are always brighter than flats I find. If you want fat, deep/low sound then flats are the way to go.

Add that I only have them on my fretless and it's a really different sounding bass than any of my others. Which I like.
 
GHS Precision SS FW M-3050-5, for 5 string. M-3050 for 4 strings. Bought them from TRURewindMusic.com $26.50 + $7.95 shipping.
In the past I've bought them from MF but just a little more $$$.
I've had six stringers and bassist that use rounds and they can't believe how smooth the strings feel, almost orgasmic, but also the deep full clear tones. AWESOME!!! :O

Definitely my favorite "old school" flats, once broken in they sound phenomenal.
I use D'addario Chromes when I want flats that sound a bit more 'modern' as they seem to have a little more high end and hig mids. In my experience.
 
JPSBassist said:
I was referring to the difference between SPECTOR Nickel and SPECTOR Stainless... the Stainless being slightly brighter.

Rounds are always brighter than flats I find. If you want fat, deep/low sound then flats are the way to go.

Add that I only have them on my fretless and it's a really different sounding bass than any of my others. Which I like.

Oh okay. I'll give ya that. ;D
Some day I'm going to make the move to fretless...thought my next one was going to be but...I'm a sucker for a great deal! :D

Basstovsky said:
Definitely my favorite "old school" flats, once broken in they sound phenomenal.
I use D'addario Chromes when I want flats that sound a bit more 'modern' as they seem to have a little more high end and hig mids. In my experience.

I'll agree with you fully on that.
I'm currently in a project turning my NS-2A to a BEAD tuning. And I've chosen D'Addario Chrome Flats, I like the sizes .132, .100, .080, .065. Where as GHS SS FW B string is a .126. Plus the chromes are a bit more softer, less tension.
 
JPS...
If I have to add a 1/2" laminate in the center of the 2J body... would that constitute a frankenbass?

7fcefdb9.gif
 
JPS...
If I have to add a 1/2" laminate in the center of the 2J body... would that constitute a frankenbass?

Sweet. My fav is this one:

Link Removed

It was my FaceBook profile photo for a while with this quote:
"As a Bassist, I have to say that without question... Spector is my axe of choice. Oh... and they also help keep Shelly Duvall from stalking me any more."
 
JPS.. I saw that one, too. But Shelly is not one of my fav actresses... LOL...

So, about my question....

I'm not really sure what constitutes a "Franken" anything... I guess if you gutted it, changed electronics, slapped on a bridge that was never meant to fit on it... etc... you could reach a legit Franken-Bass status.

I'd be more inclinded to call it a custom-mod bass.
 
ok, Cause I think I might need a 1/4 to 3/8 or 1/2" strip of something to close the gap in the seam of the body halves that was created to close a gap in the neck pocket....
I was thinking a strip of ebony of ash/poplar ???

Wut u tink ? lol

What would you use or suggest? It's supposed to be "black stain" but it sure looks brown to me...
8865ca46.jpg
 
JPSBassist said:
As long as your bass has a 35" scale the tension should be good on any strings you use. The B string can get a little "Flabby" on some of the older 34" scale models.

My NS-95 handles the B string nice and tight. :D

JPSBassist said:
Sweet. My fav is this one:

It was my FaceBook profile photo for a while with this quote:
"As a Bassist, I have to say that without question... Spector is my axe of choice. Oh... and they also help keep Shelly Duvall from stalking me any more."

Awesome!

JPSBassist said:
And I loved this one but I could never "OFFICIALLY" use it... copyright stuff you know...

That's my NS-4 and some Photoshop magic of a life-size movie prop from the 2nd film. Took me about 2 hours to create it.

Oh coolness!!! My all time fav series!!! :D
 
FINALLY bringing the RXT to band rehearsal tonight! :bassist: ^23523.23

I haven't had time to take it to my tech and have it properly setup with my Circle K's and all that but I adjusted it pretty friggin' close to perfect with the stock strings so for tonight it'll do.

I forgot too Spector uses Schaller straplocks so will hafta move those... Dunlop FTW!
 
I forgot too Spector uses Schaller straplocks so will hafta move those... Dunlop FTW!
Ugh......
Dunlop FTW? (For The Wastebasket).

Sorry, but those are the worst design.
Schallers (If used/mounted properly. The horseshoe clasp must be mounted pointing upwards :rolleyes:) rule. Even on my former non-Spector basses.

I can't tell you how many guys have complained (many on this board) about dropped or almost dropped instruments because they didn't realize the pin wasn't locked or had somehow become unlocked.

One guy even had the anchor dislodge and rip a chunk of wood from his bass because the increased length of Dunlop's pin creates more torque on the pin.

In a thread here at TB a guy created a thread complaining about the Schallers with a couple others that chimed in agreeing. It turned out they were all :rolleyes: mounting the clasp upside down and sheepishly stopped complaining when informed of this. Some of them, however, just gave a good natured "DOH!". :D
 
What a timely topic regarding straplocks - my Euro 4LX arrived today and I have no idea how to install these things! I guess I'll start with the assumption that gravity is my friend! :D

About the bass - I mucked around with it and my amp for about fifteen minutes, did a plug-and-play comparison with my Fender P/J, and I have found my new #1. I love this bass! Zero regrets in selling my Stingray to get the Euro - the Spector produces the tone I was searching for all along, a fatter, growlier, more detailed P/J tone than I was getting from my trusty Fender.

One question for the Spectorites - the action is set really low, and I'm getting some significant fret buzz on the E string from frets 1-4, a little bit on the A if I dig in really hard. Should I raise saddle heights or tweak the truss rod? This being my first neck-through, I figure I'll defer to those with experience.

Once I get this set up right, I'll post some pics.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.