Spector Club - Part 9

[crimson_basser]

I have a slightly different question for the panel..
One of the push pull pots that comes attached to the tone pump in my Euro 5LX crapped out and will not pull anymore.

Where can I get a replacement? What brand/model does Spector use?

 

[Tracebassplayer]

What a timely topic regarding straplocks - my Euro 4LX arrived today and I have no idea how to install these things! I guess I'll start with the assumption that gravity is my friend!

About the bass - I mucked around with it and my amp for about fifteen minutes, did a plug-and-play comparison with my Fender P/J, and I have found my new #1. I love this bass! Zero regrets in selling my Stingray to get the Euro - the Spector produces the tone I was searching for all along, a fatter, growlier, more detailed P/J tone than I was getting from my trusty Fender.

One question for the Spectorites - the action is set really low, and I'm getting some significant fret buzz on the E string from frets 1-4, a little bit on the A if I dig in really hard. Should I raise saddle heights or tweak the truss rod? This being my first neck-through, I figure I'll defer to those with experience.

Once I get this set up right, I'll post some pics.

If you like the action everywhere else...
and if you are comfortable doing your own setup...
I would loosen the truss rod 1/16 turn at a time to allow the neck a tad of relief , until you get no more fret buzz.
Then you might (mind you I said "might") have to re-adjust the saddle a hair to get back to the action it had before the truss rod adjustment...

 

[Tracebassplayer]

^^^ assuming there is no twist in the neck...and you don't end up with a lot of forward bow in the neck... or that you have a fret too high at the 4th..

 

[rockstarbassist]

Ugh......
Dunlop FTW? (For The Wastebasket).

Sorry, but those are the worst design.
Schallers (If used/mounted properly. The horseshoe clasp must be mounted pointing upwards ) rule. Even on my former non-Spector basses.

I can't tell you how many guys have complained (many on this board) about dropped or almost dropped instruments because they didn't realize the pin wasn't locked or had somehow become unlocked.

One guy even had the anchor dislodge and rip a chunk of wood from his bass because the increased length of Dunlop's pin creates more torque on the pin.

In a thread here at TB a guy created a thread complaining about the Schallers with a couple others that chimed in agreeing. It turned out they were all mounting the clasp upside down and sheepishly stopped complaining when informed of this. Some of them, however, just gave a good natured "DOH!".

Meh, I just don't like 'em. I've been using Dunlops since I got my Charvel back in what, like '97? It's not that I don't know how to use them, it's just what your comfy with. I also know dudes that have had Schallers for decades with no fails on their guitars and basses so it's not a bad design, just a preference thing. Plus my strap already has the tips installed so just loosen a few screws and the RXT is ready to go!

 

[PhatBasstard]

What a timely topic regarding straplocks - my Euro 4LX arrived today and I have no idea how to install these things! I guess I'll start with the assumption that gravity is my friend!

Yes, that's it exactly.
With Schallers properly installed with the horseshoes facing upwards, gravity is always your friend.

With the Dunlops gravity is never your friend. Especially on the upper horn pin on most basses. Because that pin will often times be in a somewhat upward pointing direction, if it somehow doesn't get locked or comes unlocked, gravity will not be your friend.
Your bass may Dunlop onto the floor.

Installation is easy. Horseshoe clasp (facing upwards or toward the strap length ) obviously on the bass side of the strap ends. Put the disc washer on the other side followed by screwing on the nut. Tighten. Use without worry.

 

[PhatBasstard]

Meh, I just don't like 'em. I've been using Dunlops since I got my Charvel back in what, like '97? It's not that I don't know how to use them, it's just what your comfy with. I also know dudes that have had Schallers for decades with no fails on their guitars and basses so it's not a bad design, just a preference thing. Plus my strap already has the tips installed so just loosen a few screws and the RXT is ready to go!

No problem.
Just take a nice picture of that RXT before your first gig.....
.....just in case.

 

[steamthief]

If you like the action everywhere else...
and if you are comfortable doing your own setup...
I would loosen the truss rod 1/16 turn at a time to allow the neck a tad of relief , until you get no more fret buzz.
Then you might (mind you I said "might") have to re-adjust the saddle a hair to get back to the action it had before the truss rod adjustment...

1/8 of a turn did the trick. The action is still wickedly low - me likey!

 

[Tracebassplayer]

1/8 of a turn did the trick. The action is still wickedly low - me likey!

Very nice.
Yeah, I said 1/16th so you would not have to detune to tighten it back if it was too much. I don't like to tighten the truss rod while the strings are under tension. It's hard on the threads.

 

[steamthief]

Installation is easy. Horseshoe clasp (facing upwards or toward the strap length ) obviously on the bass side of the strap ends. Put the disc washer on the other side followed by screwing on the nut. Tighten. Use without worry.

Thank you, it's my first go around with strap locks!

 

[iceboxbass]

1/8 of a turn did the trick. The action is still wickedly low - me likey!

That's one of things that I love about Spectors...low neck action! My fender Jazz was aweful, very high!

Very nice.
Yeah, I said 1/16th so you would not have to detune to tighten it back if it was too much. I don't like to tighten the truss rod while the strings are under tension. It's hard on the threads.

Not to mention it's harder to get to the truss rod adjustment bolt without loosening the strings...atleast on my NS-95.

 

[PhatBasstard]

FWIW, you should never, for any amount, tighten a truss rod with strings at tension.

 

[Tracebassplayer]

Not to mention it's harder to get to the truss rod adjustment bolt without loosening the strings...atleast on my NS-95.

I have a longer tool for that....
Do you need a longer tool?

 

[JPSBassist]

This just in...

Lita Ford and PJ Farley have teamed up and are giving away one (1) Europe Series NS-2JA-R in natural maple gloss finish to a single winner at the M3 Rock Festival in Columbia, MD. on Saturday, May 14th.

The retail value of this bass is $2,099.99

All you have to do is go to the Lita Ford Merch booth and sign up.

That's all the details I have. The official press release is here:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

This giveaway is being handled by Lita Ford and PJ Farley. SPECTOR® is supplying the guitar.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[FunkySpoo]

So I'm just about to pull the trigger on a Euro 5lx but I have one last question. I've been playing 34 inch scale bolt on 5 stringers for the last ten or twelve years. The one thing they seem to have in common is the dead spot on the G string around the fifth fret. Luckily both my SR5's didn't suffer this affliction. Do the neck through 35 inch Spectors have this issue? If not is there anything I should be on the look out for.

Thanks

 

[Tracebassplayer]

oooooo.... Lita Ford was HOT in the 80's .... anyone who has seen the video for - If I close my eyes forever.... knows what I am talking about... whooooa, I'll be right back.....

 

[JPSBassist]

So I'm just about to pull the trigger on a Euro 5lx but I have one last question. I've been playing 34 inch scale bolt on 5 stringers for the last ten or twelve years. The one thing they seem to have in common is the dead spot on the G string around the fifth fret. Luckily both my SR5's didn't suffer this affliction. Do the neck through 35 inch Spectors have this issue? If not is there anything I should be on the look out for.

Thanks

This is not an issue with the 35" scale Neck-thru SPECTOR models. That "dead spot" on the G string is common with some 34" bolt-ons for some reason.

Stuart seems to think it's an issue with the amount of rigidity in the neck. Something he addressed with the way he designed the Coda's neck... the Coda doesn't have the classic G-dead-spots that other J bolt-ons do.

I've never heard anyone complain about any dead spots on a Neck-thru SPECTOR.

 

[Christian Waiau]

Anyone have tips for changing from the long barrel output jack... to a "normal" jack?

 

[Tracebassplayer]

What ya got in mind?

 

[PhatBasstard]

Anyone have tips for changing from the long barrel output jack... to a "normal" jack?

I've done this to most of my earlier Spectors over the years because they kept going bad. The only way is to route a big enough hole for the normal jack and then cover it with one of those small, Les Paul style jack plates (you may have to reshape it a little due to the Spector's curvature).

However, my 4 most recent Spectors still have the barrel jack working fine. Why? Because I discovered, years ago, that using a right angled plug puts far less stress on them. Back when I used to use straight plugs (and changing out many barrel jacks) I had them (barrel jacks) fail in as little as a few weeks. The ones I have now have lasted for years with the right angle plugs.

 

[Tracebassplayer]

I've done this to most of my earlier Spectors over the years because they kept going bad. The only way is to route a big enough hole for the normal jack and then cover it one of those small, Les Paul style jack plates (you may have to reshape it a little due to the Spector's curvature).

However, my 4 most recent Spectors still have the barrel jack working fine. Why? Because I discovered, years ago, that using a right angled plug puts far less stress on them. Back when I used to use straight plugs (and changing out many barrel jacks) I had them (barrel jacks) fail in as little as a few weeks. The ones I have now have lasted for years with the right angle plugs.

+10 on the 90 degree angle plugs!!!!!!