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Squier Classic Vibe Club (Part 3)

#3,581
Hi.


What strings to you use on your Classic Vibes? I know it all boils down to own preferences, but it seems to me that the Classic Vibe basses shines with different strings than my other basses. Might be because of the body wood of the CV's.


Over the last couple of months I've bought four CV's, and string wise, this is where I am at the moment.


MATT FREEMAN P-BASS

Tried an assortment of different flats that usually is a perfect match with P-basses (LaBella LTF, Pyramids, TI), but none of them felt right. Then tried a set of Fender 7250, which is the strings Freeman (the person, not the bass) uses himself, but to me they didn't feel right. After that I put on an old set (10-15 years) of Blue Steels, and at least for now, I really like the combo.


JAMES JOHNSTON J-BASS

The first thing I did when I received the bass was to put on a set of TI's. I've always loved the combo of jazz bass and TI's, but it didn't feel right on this bass. Currently it's strung with Fender 7250s, but they're not right either.


50s P-BASS (pine):

Got it right the first time. Strung with a custom set of Pyramids (balanced set), and they will stay on as long as I have the bass.


60s P-BASS:

Still in transit to me, but I have a set of GHS flats and different sets of LaBella's I'll try on as soon as it arrives.


So what strings do you have on your CVs?
 
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#3,582
20basspilots said:
I would like to share some mods i've done to my Squier CV 70s Pbass

  • Full refret to Jescar Stainless Steel Frets (kinda overkill and unnecessary given that the stock nickel frets absolutely have no issues.. but hey future proof!)
  • Aluminum Pickguard from Musiclily
  • Graphtech String Saver saddles (another mod i realized was unecessary )
  • Full electronics rewire - brass 250k pots, .047 Orange Drop capacitor
I have changed the bridge several times but ended up going back to the stock bridge and selling the other bridges as it didn't make a noticeable change in playability or tone.

I kept the stock pickup as it is pretty decent and reads out at 10.5k output but I might want it to sound a little less darker and have a lower output pickup..(still trying to decide on it since i don't want any unecessary mods like that stainless steel refret i've kind of regret spending money on )

V1FUMys.jpeg
Click to expand...
Very nice ! I would be more than happy to use this for my rock songs.
 
#3,583
Deleted member 271037 said:
I just want to point out that you don't need an aluminum pickguard for this, you can simply use copper foil on a plastic pickguard. Just make sure the shielding is grounded. Personally I wouldn't trust the mechanical connection between pots/jack/pickguard for grounding. If anything comes loose during a gig your could get crackling/dropouts. On the other hand, you don't want lots of ground connections all over the place that could, at least in theory, cause a ground loop, although this is rarely a problem with a passive P-bass unless you've got a cold solder joint somewhere.
Click to expand...

true. i just got an aluminum pickguard for the looks
 
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#3,585
P-punk said:
Hi.


What strings to you use on your Classic Vibes? I know it all boils down to own preferences, but it seems to me that the Classic Vibe basses shines with different strings than my other basses. Might be because of the body wood of the CV's.


Over the last couple of months I've bought four CV's, and string wise, this is where I am at the moment.


MATT FREEMAN P-BASS

Tried an assortment of different flats that usually is a perfect match with P-basses (LaBella LTF, Pyramids, TI), but none of them felt right. Then tried a set of Fender 7250, which is the strings Freeman (the person, not the bass) uses himself, but to me they didn't feel right. After that I put on an old set (10-15 years) of Blue Steels, and at least for now, I really like the combo.


JAMES JOHNSTON J-BASS

The first thing I did when I received the bass was to put on a set of TI's. I've always loved the combo of jazz bass and TI's, but it didn't feel right on this bass. Currently it's strung with Fender 7250s, but they're not right either.


50s P-BASS (pine):

Got it right the first time. Strung with a custom set of Pyramids (balanced set), and they will stay on as long as I have the bass.


60s P-BASS:

Still in transit to me, but I have a set of GHS flats and different sets of LaBella's I'll try on as soon as it arrives.


So what strings do you have on your CVs?
Click to expand...

On my previous CIC CV bass, CV60P has Ti flat loaded along with PV63 pup install.
Cv60J has Fender 9050L and CV50P has LTF4A.

My current mod PJ with Matt freeman neck use EB2814 ( with Dimarzio model PJ pup), the Vintera 50s has Ti flat. A set of EB Group flat on the way for the new Indo CV70P.
 
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#3,586
Update on Cortek made CV70s P.

After swap the stock string with several months old LTF4A, the bass tone get better and tight. The P vibe are there, but still lacking something that i looking for 70s aggressive tone. I will try swap the stock 250k pot with 500K for experience first before EB Group flat arrive.

After inspection, all fret has no levelling issue. This is a good news to me and this is my first Cortek bass neck with great factory fretwork job. But both E and A nut slot cut too deep, when i press down both string on 3rd fret, they slightly touch the 1st fret. CA glue+baking soda treatment will apply soon.

Those nickel coat hardware on this Cortek CV70s P look less nickel-ist compare to Samik Cv70P/CV50P. The bend bridge plate also notable thicker and a bit heavy than Samik's.

I install the Samik tread saddle bridge while string swap. Because i only use vintage style bridge.

There are one tuning peg shaft in crook condition. All tuning machine work without single issue yet, but will replace those with CIC CV tuning machine because i love long tuning shaft look.

The poly coat on neck are less slick too. I favor clear coat neck, but this one feel sticky. Will give the neck some buff job soon.

Entire bass weight are 3.56kg, notable slightly neck dive with normal nylon strap, but fine with Neoprene Mega Strap.

The neck profile remind me the Vintage Modified PJ bass own previously. But the poly coated on VM PJ just soooo smooth.
 
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#3,587
Yahboy said:
Update on Cortek made CV70s P.

After swap the stock string with several months old LTF4A, the bass tone get better and tight. The P vibe are there, but still lacking something that i looking for 70s aggressive tone. I will try swap the stock 250k pot with 500K for experience first before EB Group flat arrive.

After inspection, all fret has no levelling issue. This is a good news to me and this is my first Cortek bass neck with great factory fretwork job. But both E and A nut slot cut too deep, when i press down both string on 3rd fret, they slightly touch the 1st fret. CA glue+baking soda treatment will apply soon.

Those nickel coat hardware on this Cortek CV70s P look less nickel-ist compare to Samik Cv70P/CV50P. The bend bridge plate also notable thicker and a bit heavy than Samik's.

I install the Samik tread saddle bridge while string swap. Because i only use vintage style bridge.

There are one tuning peg shaft in crook condition. All tuning machine work without single issue yet, but will replace those with CIC CV tuning machine because i love long tuning shaft look.

The poly coat on neck are less slick too. I favor clear coat neck, but this one feel sticky. Will give the neck some buff job soon.

Entire bass weight are 3.56kg, notable slightly neck dive with normal nylon strap, but fine with Neoprene Mega Strap.

The neck profile remind me the Vintage Modified PJ bass own previously. But the poly coated on VM PJ just soooo smooth.
Click to expand...

3.56kg is impressive... well, after all, their necks are very slim, compared to first 1st gen CV70 necks which were U profile, but not surprised about the poly coat on the neck, I hated the 2nd gen because it's not like 1st gen which is very slick. If you want 1st gen tuners (lighter than their Schaller counterpart) I can link you something.
 
#3,588
Yahboy said:
Update on Cortek made CV70s P.

But both E and A nut slot cut too deep, when i press down both string on 3rd fret, they slightly touch the 1st fret. CA glue+baking soda treatment will apply soon.
Click to expand...

for me personally i think this is a sweet spot. i cut the nut slots low enough to just leave a really really tiny gap between the string and 1st fret while pressing down on the 3rd fret. the ringing on the first fret brings out the growl. i always tell people not to be afraid of a little buzz. that's where the growl/rasp comes from. in the end i guess it's just my preference. the only time it really becomes an issue for me when it buzzes is when the note is dead at the same time.
 
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#3,589
I am silly as created a thread about the neck thickness of a Squire CV 70 Precision Bass, when I am following this forum :-(
I have sold mine a year ago but as the neck was really outstanding, I am hesitating to buy another SQ bass or build one using Fender parts. I have the measurements of a Fender neck with the big square inlays and the neck profile info but no thickness is quoted for the Squire CV 70 Precision Bass.
Can anyone of you please measure the neck thickness at the 1st and the 12th fret?

Cheers,

Tamas
 
#3,590
Agriamodeling said:
I am silly as created a thread about the neck thickness of a Squire CV 70 Precision Bass, when I am following this forum :-(
I have sold mine a year ago but as the neck was really outstanding, I am hesitating to buy another SQ bass or build one using Fender parts. I have the measurements of a Fender neck with the big square inlays and the neck profile info but no thickness is quoted for the Squire CV 70 Precision Bass.
Can anyone of you please measure the neck thickness at the 1st and the 12th fret?

Cheers,

Tamas
Click to expand...

I have two 1st gen SquiER CV70 Precision Bass necks and boths of them are bigger than the CV60 Precision Bass necks... don't have the tools to measure but they're fatter than the typical "Modern C" neck profile, which I prefer (the bigger profile)!
 
#3,593
P-punk said:
Hi.


What strings to you use on your Classic Vibes? I know it all boils down to own preferences, but it seems to me that the Classic Vibe basses shines with different strings than my other basses. Might be because of the body wood of the CV's.


Over the last couple of months I've bought four CV's, and string wise, this is where I am at the moment.


MATT FREEMAN P-BASS

Tried an assortment of different flats that usually is a perfect match with P-basses (LaBella LTF, Pyramids, TI), but none of them felt right. Then tried a set of Fender 7250, which is the strings Freeman (the person, not the bass) uses himself, but to me they didn't feel right. After that I put on an old set (10-15 years) of Blue Steels, and at least for now, I really like the combo.


JAMES JOHNSTON J-BASS

The first thing I did when I received the bass was to put on a set of TI's. I've always loved the combo of jazz bass and TI's, but it didn't feel right on this bass. Currently it's strung with Fender 7250s, but they're not right either.


50s P-BASS (pine):

Got it right the first time. Strung with a custom set of Pyramids (balanced set), and they will stay on as long as I have the bass.


60s P-BASS:

Still in transit to me, but I have a set of GHS flats and different sets of LaBella's I'll try on as soon as it arrives.


So what strings do you have on your CVs?
Click to expand...
Currently have GHS precision flats on one of my CV 60's P's, Fender flats on another. One of my CIC 60's J basses wears Fender 7250's (rounds) another CIC wears EB Hybrid Slinky's, daphne blue 60's J currently wears Roto's and late 60's CV J wears Fender Flats 9050.
You scored some super cool basses…:thumbsup:
 
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#3,595
J Posega said:
It's a pretty standard feeling, nothing special, modern shaped neck. I was expecting it to be wider and thicker than it is, but it isn't bad by any means.
Click to expand...
Ah bummer. I got excited there for a minute :D

C Stone said:
The 60's and 70's Classic Vibes P's wear C-shape necks, J basses wear a slim "C".
Click to expand...
Thanks. Are they slimmer than the '50s P? Or is it always the same
 
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#3,598
C Stone said:
The 60's and 70's Classic Vibes P's wear C-shape necks, J basses wear a slim "C".
Click to expand...

I don't think it's all true though: I have 7 Crafted in China Classic Vibe (Squier) and Modern Player (Fender) necks: one CV 60 (rosewood) and 2x70 (maple) Precision Bass neck, a Matt Freeman neck (maple) as well as CV60 J (rosewood) and Modern Player Jazz Bass (one fingerboard and one maple) necks, and not all of these have the same "slim C" profile. That's what Fender writes everywhere but it's plain not true, at least for what I have :

- all my 4 maple fingerboard necks have a big/fatter neck profile (D to U)
- all my 3 rosewood fingerboard neck have a slimmer "C" neck profile

20230621_150738-01.jpeg 20230621_145551-01.jpeg 20230621_145729-01.jpeg 20230621_150053-01.jpeg 20230621_150247-01.jpeg 20230621_150414-01.jpeg 20231022_135943.jpg

I personally love my maple CV/MP necks BECAUSE of that bigger profile that have. And I'm not talking of nut width, because my MP Jazz Bass maple necks is 38mm at the nut and it still has a huge D/U profile that the rosewood counterparts doesn't have! :woot:
 
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#3,600
jpaulo said:
Has anyone changed the stock 250k volume pot to 500k or 1M on their CV60P?
I believe I can use the extra brightness but am afraid of losing low end, would that happen?
Tks
Click to expand...

Not on a CV, but I did it on a Sonic P. Before installation, I measured how much I have to turn the pot CCV to get to approx 250 K (about 1/4 turn in my case). To be honest, I don't hear that much of a difference. Turning the tone pot 1/4 turn down gives me just a bit rounder tone, perhaps.
 
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