Yes, great job on the bridge, and taking the shine off the body too- excellent! Thanks for the tips, I may follow suit soon.
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Ok, I got the Fender vintage bridge in the mail today, installed it this evening.
I used the middle hole on the bridge and filled the other four. It aligned perfectly leaving 1/16" on either side of where the original bridge was placed.
Here's a few photos of the process
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zenrad/sets/72157625243197520/
It did finally get the feel and sound to what I wanted. I have a Fralin pup in the bass, CTS pots and a good 5% tolerance cap. The thing I noticed right away was that the bass didn't sound as bright and brittle as it did with the heavier bridge. I was looking for more of a classic 60's thumpy tone and while I was really close, this, IMO finally did it.
Another thing I did while I had the strings off was to take it apart and knock off some of the shine from the bass. I'm not a fan of reliced instruments, but it just didn't look right to me all shiny. I used grey scotcbright followed by 000 and then 0000 steel wool, and then I used fine rubbing compound by hand. This gives it a worn in look with a slight sheen, like one of my old guitars that's been wiped down and polished a thousand times over the decades. The pickguard got the same treatment followed by plastic polish to remove most of the scratches. Once I play it for a few hours all of my right hand marks will be right back where they belong
So I'm very happy with it. This was an easy change that made a noticable difference in the feel and sound of the bass.
Also, I added business card neck shim to mine and it really helped get the action where I want it.
I did the neck and headstock also, the shine on the neck looked out of place against the rest of the guitar. I removed the tuners and did the headstock too.
No shim in my neck, the action is quite nice.
I have it at
008" clearance between the 6th fret and a straight edge placed between frets 1 and 12 on the A string.
G string height at the 12th fret 4/64" gradually moving to
E string height at the 12th fet 5/64"
I keep my action just on the verge of buzzing when I dig in, but high enough to let me play without fret noise if I control my right hand.
No shim in my neck, the action is quite nice.
I have it at
008" clearance between the 6th fret and a straight edge placed between frets 1 and 12 on the A string.
G string height at the 12th fret 4/64" gradually moving to
E string height at the 12th fet 5/64"
I keep my action just on the verge of buzzing when I dig in, but high enough to let me play without fret noise if I control my right hand.

What about the squier logo? Did it fade with the buffing?
I did the neck and headstock also, the shine on the neck looked out of place against the rest of the guitar. I removed the tuners and did the headstock too.
No shim in my neck, the action is quite nice.
I have it at
008" clearance between the 6th fret and a straight edge placed between frets 1 and 12 on the A string.
G string height at the 12th fret 4/64" gradually moving to
E string height at the 12th fet 5/64"
I keep my action just on the verge of buzzing when I dig in, but high enough to let me play without fret noise if I control my right hand.
Ive now got a Fender Vintage bridge on my CVP as well. It feels nice and although i prefer the look of a high mass bridge it seems sturdy enough. I think ill put a Gotoh 201 on at some point.
Ive also got a Wizard Thumper pickup in. This has been quite a stressful upgrade.
The fisrt one took ages to get in as its slightly bigger than the stock Squier pup so i had ot do a lot fo filing. Once it was in it turned out to be faulty so i sent it back and have only just put the replacement in.
This works fine but i think i messed up the volume pot as it cuts out if you move the wire. Ive got some CTS pots and a .o47 Orange drop cap coming this week. Im sure the bass is fine, and its working perfectly at the moment but i dont wan to take any chances, as i like playing this so much its going to become my gigging bass.
I might need to get a new pickguard though. The pickup is tilting forward due to the tight fit and im fed up with filing.
Does anyone know if a 62 vintage P PG will fit?
Oh, and ive now got my CV Jazz neck on the P. Much nicer to play.
Anybody knows what happened to the sonic blue P ?
I can't find them anywhere :C
I really want one...
That's two people who had to modify the pickguard. Is this a known issue on the CVs -- that the stock pickup and/or pickup opening is non-standard? Or were these cases of the aftermarket pickup being non-standard?
You're so close with the pickguard you have, take a break and when you feel like giving it some time start your filing again, you'll get it. I had to reshape the pickup openings on my PG when I put the Fralins in my bass, it takes some time especially if you want it to look good. It'll be easier if you remove the electronics and can just hold the PG any way you'd like and keep trying the fit. Just be patient and think of it as a meditation![]()
Also take a look at the pups when the pickguard is removed and make sure they're not tilting because the foam under them is off to one side.
@Tusec. The Squier pup is about 1mm shorter than the norm. Ive taken measurements off the SD website, as well as other 3rd party Fender pups and its the Squier pups thats non spec. I guess if the PG has been cut for these then it makes sense that it would need filing. I did try and get the coils in to the Squier covers but they wouldn't fit. This is the only P ive not been able to just drop a pup in, other than a badly made PG i had for my Duck Dunn a few years ago.
That's two people who had to modify the pickguard. Is this a known issue on the CVs -- that the stock pickup and/or pickup opening is non-standard? Or were these cases of the aftermarket pickup being non-standard?
Haven't tried with Squier guard but suspect will be OK.
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