Squier Owners Club

[J Wilson]

There is No Way on God's Green Earth I'd pay the 4 or 5G's for a Custom Shop Pino, or most any Custom Shop version of regular Fender axes.

Handbuilt or not, for me the Cost vs. Value is WAY out of balance.

 

[jglunt]

There is No Way on God's Green Earth I'd pay the 4 or 5G's for a Custom Shop Pino, or most any Custom Shop version of regular Fender axes.

Handbuilt or not, for me the Cost vs. Value is WAY out of balance.

I 100% agree as long as I can get great tone and playability out of a lesser bass, and I've been able to do that. But if you have the money and want to do spend it on a boutique bass, have at it. I believe we should all have fun here.

 

[Jamarvic]

I guess I completely forgot to post that promised pic. Should one or both of these be relicced? Is "relliced" even a word? If so, how is it spelled? Anyway, here's the pic, taken right after the Paranormal 54 arrived on the scene.View attachment 5444186

To be honest, the finishes on those are not easy to relic, also I think they look great as is.

 

[J Wilson]

I 100% agree as long as I can get great tone and playability out of a lesser bass, and I've been able to do that. But if you have the money and want to do spend it on a boutique bass, have at it. I believe we should all have fun here.

I'd be the first to say play whatever you want, whatever let's you make your best music.

 

[friskinator]

There is No Way on God's Green Earth I'd pay the 4 or 5G's for a Custom Shop Pino, or most any Custom Shop version of regular Fender axes.

Handbuilt or not, for me the Cost vs. Value is WAY out of balance.

I’ve owned both and I agree, but there is clearly a market for both.

 

[EdO.]

To be honest, the finishes on those are not easy to relic, also I think they look great as is.

Personally I hate the phony look of new relic on a new-ish bass, yet to see one that actually looks "natural". Looks like someone is trying too hard for what reason? Just doesn't look natural. Honest relic looks bad ass. Phony relic just looks phony. I like my basses to look like I can afford decent instruments and if I put some wear on them that's fine. But to take a grinder or whatever to an otherwise nice instrument?

 

[Malak the Mad]

Thanks! I'm considering putting on a set of TI flats to complete the Pino vibe. I just sold my CS Pino, and despite it being a fantastic instrument, it is not 10 times better than this CV.

Love it. Is there a thread anywhere dedicated to this subject of value, sense, and sound?

This is the best video I've seen on the subject:

And this Sire vs Fodera blind test is great:

I 100% agree as long as I can get great tone and playability out of a lesser bass, and I've been able to do that. But if you have the money and want to do spend it on a boutique bass, have at it. I believe we should all have fun here.

All great notions! Play what makes you happy...just don't be a d!¢k about it, ja?

I had a similar experience. Shortly after the Fender American Professional II Jazzes came out with that scrumptious Dark Night finish, I stumbled across a great deal; an open box unit online for $1,200 or so. I had a little money, so I grabbed it...then eventually returned it.

The Pro II Jazz wasn't bad. In fact, it was great. But, when I compared it to my other Fender/Squier hybrid parts-basses or my stock Fender Aerodyne, I came to one, loud and clear determination...it may be great, but it's not "$1,200-great". So, after giving people here a chance to snag it for cost on the TB Classifieds with no takers, I sent it back near the end of the return period.

 

[friskinator]

All great notions! Play what makes you happy...just don't be a d!¢k about it, ja?

I had a similar experience. Shortly after the Fender American Professional II Jazzes came out with that scrumptious Dark Night finish, I stumbled across a great deal; an open box unit online for $1,200 or so. I had a little money, so I grabbed it...then eventually returned it.

The Pro II Jazz wasn't bad. In fact, it was great. But, when I compared it to my other Fender/Squier hybrid parts-basses or my stock Fender Aerodyne, I came to one, loud and clear determination...it may be great, but it's not "$1,200-great". So, after giving people here a chance to snag it for cost on the TB Classifieds with no takers, I sent it back near the end of the return period.

A few years ago, I put together a parts bass. The main components are a MIK plywood Squier body that I refinished, and an AllParts neck that was finished in an oil/wax treatment similar to US Laklands. It is by far the best P I’ve ever played, and I’ve got maybe $500 invested in the whole thing.

I don’t judge anyone for playing what makes them happy, whether it costs $50 or $5000. And I understand the desire to spend a lot of money. I’ve been there. But I am convinced that perception is reality for many of us.

 

[jglunt]

A few years ago, I put together a parts bass. The main components are a MIK plywood Squier body that I refinished, and an AllParts neck that was finished in an oil/wax treatment similar to US Laklands. It is by far the best P I’ve ever played, and I’ve got maybe $500 invested in the whole thing.

I don’t judge anyone for playing what makes them happy, whether it costs $50 or $5000. And I understand the desire to spend a lot of money. I’ve been there. But I am convinced that perception is reality for many of us.

The finest-sounding bass I own is a G&L Tribute LB-100, which is a P-bass built by Cort in Indonesia. I bought it directly as a B-stock from G&L. I didn't like the pickup on it--mediocre is how I'd describe it--so I put an active 2-band EQ with a concentric pot on it. Much better! Then I pulled the G&L MFD pickup out of my G&L SB-2 and dropped it into the Tribute LB-100. Absolutely amazing tone with that pickup and that EQ. That pickup is still in that bass. I simply bought a new one to replace it in the SB-2. I have slightly less than $500 in the best sounding bass I've ever owned. Plus it plays great, and it looks a lot like the 1970 Fender P-bass I played for so many years, so it trips the nostalgia button. The trifecta--sounds great, plays great, looks great. If it has those, it has everything it needs no matter what the price.

 

[OldBlue61]

Those of you w/ the Affinity series of Jazz basses...

I just picked up an Olympic White Affinity Jazz V from Marketplace for a great price, basically half of the new price. It's a '23 serial number and the gent I purchased it from told me he bought it 4 months ago. Looks like it. It's dusty, needs a good cleaning and a setup, but other than a small nick on the back of the body, is in great condition. Straight neck, no fret wear, a few hairline scratches on the pg, but that's it.

How do like the hardware/pups/durability of these basses? I was hesitant to buy one, being made in China, but I wanted a cheap 5 string that was in good shape, and this fit the bill without spending too many bills.

 

[C Stone]

Those of you w/ the Affinity series of Jazz basses...

I just picked up an Olympic White Affinity Jazz V from Marketplace for a great price, basically half of the new price. It's a '23 serial number and the gent I purchased it from told me he bought it 4 months ago. Looks like it. It's dusty, needs a good cleaning and a setup, but other than a small nick on the back of the body, is in great condition. Straight neck, no fret wear, a few hairline scratches on the pg, but that's it.

How do like the hardware/pups/durability of these basses? I was hesitant to buy one, being made in China, but I wanted a cheap 5 string that was in good shape, and this fit the bill without spending too many bills.

View attachment 5450021 View attachment 5450022 View attachment 5450023

The Affinty’s can be hit or miss, it does look like a good example of a well put together Affinity V from here…fretboard looks great and I don’t swap hardware
unless/until there is an issue, I am also partial to ceramic pickups so I’d rock it as is, great color! Congratulations enjoy.

 

[OldBlue61]

I'm thinking of putting a high-mass bridge on it, simply to try and balance it a bit. Seems to have more neck dive than any of my other basses.

 

[jglunt]

I'm thinking of putting a high-mass bridge on it, simply to try and balance it a bit. Seems to have more neck dive than any of my other basses.

I have used both the Gotoh 201-4B high mass bridge and the Fender High Mass bridge and find the Fender to be superior. It's also more "high mass." If neck dive is a problem after that, try a set of the tuning keys linked below. They are excellent ultralights and at $48 for a set of four, what's not to like? (I have no affiliation with any of the links below. Just trying to be helpful.)

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-HiMas...x=fender+high+mass+bass+bridge,aps,176&sr=8-1

Tuning Key - G&L USA Ultralite Bass Reversible

 

[jglunt]

I have used both the Gotoh 201-4B high mass bridge and the Fender High Mass bridge and find the Fender to be superior. It's also more "high mass." If neck dive is a problem after that, try a set of the tuning keys linked below. They are excellent ultralights and at $48 for a set of four, what's not to like? (I have no affiliation with any of the links below. Just trying to be helpful.)

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-HiMass-4-String-Assembly-Saddles/dp/B01M5JN7YC/ref=sr_1_1_pp?crid=1EJ24DP2T97BI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.B9zY58ON05d91xbmQsrJxR-WDXSMOgtV9q9IEik3L-RzmlVBhXgZtFq5_o5xw52FeacMAmr6QQVQVwgfQEiRZma59KKFHqNCC2BmJ0B5-AKLu6mFzuR0Z1k-fx3b9wiwNSiFJmFXJmZYPuZwZL0gwhf967xTKeA6zgo2b5Edc7Hr-sZ5VMqOBoQX_m9NhoczQ2kp8gQ1mt4VvudhJpc8HbEi0EUEu2zPrpuYXtlt6jM5G25wYQFKNYUrtBU1h9GEVvOedi-GHnew2dpq841ceGYe2QbCcivsZpYfhddLnxA.Puwwibf0aNXgpuhCKap_iOrSr5-8v-2Sp7Yl6-g1e6g&dib_tag=se&keywords=fender+high+mass+bass+bridge&qid=1715885165&sprefix=fender+high+mass+bass+bridge,aps,176&sr=8-1

Tuning Key - G&L USA Ultralite Bass Reversible

BTW, the G&L tuners are not direct drop-ins, so a little work is required. If you don't feel like you have the tools or the expertise, have someone who has experience install them. Some of the original holes might be usable, but not all. After removing the old tuners, I recommend coating some round toothpicks with Elmer's glue and jamming them into the holes. (Thick Super Glue is a decent substitute.) Let them sit overnight and clip them off with a small set of diagonal cutters or a small saw blade. Gently tap the tips down with a punch or even a Phillips screwdriver to level it and proceed with the new tuner installation. Make sure to drill new holes as maple is a very hard wood.

 

[OldBlue61]

I have used both the Gotoh 201-4B high mass bridge and the Fender High Mass bridge and find the Fender to be superior. It's also more "high mass." If neck dive is a problem after that, try a set of the tuning keys linked below. They are excellent ultralights and at $48 for a set of four, what's not to like? (I have no affiliation with any of the links below. Just trying to be helpful.)

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-HiMass-4-String-Assembly-Saddles/dp/B01M5JN7YC/ref=sr_1_1_pp?crid=1EJ24DP2T97BI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.B9zY58ON05d91xbmQsrJxR-WDXSMOgtV9q9IEik3L-RzmlVBhXgZtFq5_o5xw52FeacMAmr6QQVQVwgfQEiRZma59KKFHqNCC2BmJ0B5-AKLu6mFzuR0Z1k-fx3b9wiwNSiFJmFXJmZYPuZwZL0gwhf967xTKeA6zgo2b5Edc7Hr-sZ5VMqOBoQX_m9NhoczQ2kp8gQ1mt4VvudhJpc8HbEi0EUEu2zPrpuYXtlt6jM5G25wYQFKNYUrtBU1h9GEVvOedi-GHnew2dpq841ceGYe2QbCcivsZpYfhddLnxA.Puwwibf0aNXgpuhCKap_iOrSr5-8v-2Sp7Yl6-g1e6g&dib_tag=se&keywords=fender+high+mass+bass+bridge&qid=1715885165&sprefix=fender+high+mass+bass+bridge,aps,176&sr=8-1

Tuning Key - G&L USA Ultralite Bass Reversible

I appreciate your input. Good to know about the differences in the bridges too. Thanks.

 

[OldBlue61]

It seems the high mass Fender bridges for 4 stringers have 5 mounting holes, while the bridges for 5 stringers have 4 mounting holes? I really don’t want to redrill for a different bridge.

https://a.co/d/8UJ6sLN

 

[jglunt]

It does appear that way. I'm mostly a 4-string player, so forgive my ignorance. You might check directly on the Fender website to see if they offer more than one mounting style.

 

[joeLowB]

BTW, the G&L tuners are not direct drop-ins, so a little work is required. If you don't feel like you have the tools or the expertise, have someone who has experience install them. Some of the original holes might be usable, but not all. After removing the old tuners, I recommend coating some round toothpicks with Elmer's glue and jamming them into the holes. (Thick Super Glue is a decent substitute.) Let them sit overnight and clip them off with a small set of diagonal cutters or a small saw blade. Gently tap the tips down with a punch or even a Phillips screwdriver to level it and proceed with the new tuner installation. Make sure to drill new holes as maple is a very hard wood.

Ditto that "toothpick plus Elmer's Glue" hack....I've used it many times and it's amazing how effective it is. Make sure you let it sit overnight... but then, it's like "new wood" in most instances. Effective on door frames and antique furniture as well...

.

 

[OldBlue61]

Elmer's glue. Who would've thunk. I'd have thought regular old wood glue would be best, but I guess not. Thanks for the tip!

 

[jglunt]

Elmer's glue. Who would've thunk. I'd have thought regular old wood glue would be best, but I guess not. Thanks for the tip!

Actually, Elmer's glue is a regular old wood glue. We used it all the time in cabinet shops I worked in. In this application, it works great because it fills the gaps between the toothpicks and the pattern the threads cut in the original holes. Thick super glue works great, too. Thin super glue will not fill those gaps effectively. Whichever choice you make, sufficient drying time is important, which is a pain because WE WANNA PLAY!