Depends if you played on a DB before.
Your instrument may have a bad setup and cheap strings. (just suppositions)
I suggest you bring to a qualified luthier for inspection and setup. (one with experience with DBs)
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Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread
- Thread starter derrenleepoole
- Start date
Your instrument may have a bad setup and cheap strings. (just suppositions)
I suggest you bring to a qualified luthier for inspection and setup. (one with experience with DBs)
no experience of DB before, but been playing for a week and start getting use to the instrument so doing scale is alot easy now. Finger and hand start building the strength, just like when i start playing Electric bass lol. Intonation is not perfect but as I play more i start knowing which position sounds right.
Full setup is needed but at the moment is good enough to gig on sunday worship for now.
After xmas i will do a full setup and some decent strings as well.
But so far experience with this DB and DB experience had been great.
Full setup is needed but at the moment is good enough to gig on sunday worship for now.
After xmas i will do a full setup and some decent strings as well.
But so far experience with this DB and DB experience had been great.
I'm a ukulele player with a hankering to play bass, and was particularly struck by the Stagg EUB. I played guitar for 45+ years, and during that time played a little electric bass. I recently got a Kala U-bass (20" scale acoustic/ukulele bass) and while I didn't really like it, it did spark my interest in playing a proper bass. So I've been looking at some options.
Stagg is the top of my list, but also the only one I've actually held. I was looking at the Dean Pace, the Kona Walking Bass (a 3-string, open-tuned instrument) and a Palatino. Trying to keep within the $700+/- range.
I prefer to learn some upright techniques, and some of the basses like the Dean Pace seem to be more like regular electric basses on a tripod, without the body.
Do any bass players agree the Stagg is a good place to start and for learning? Mostly will be playing on my own or in small jams, not pro-level or for recording outside of my PC.
Or should I search elsewhere? What makes/models would you recommend?
Stagg is the top of my list, but also the only one I've actually held. I was looking at the Dean Pace, the Kona Walking Bass (a 3-string, open-tuned instrument) and a Palatino. Trying to keep within the $700+/- range.
I prefer to learn some upright techniques, and some of the basses like the Dean Pace seem to be more like regular electric basses on a tripod, without the body.
Do any bass players agree the Stagg is a good place to start and for learning? Mostly will be playing on my own or in small jams, not pro-level or for recording outside of my PC.
Or should I search elsewhere? What makes/models would you recommend?
I started with the Stagg, learning intonation and bowing techniques. After playing with my church's newly formed Ensemble on Christmas with my Stagg, I've decided to be more 'serious' by getting a Shen acoustic doublebass. This means I'll need to learn proper stance.
Hi everyone! I am a new Stagg owner and just followed mateybass's detailed hum alleviation procedure (thanks, mateybass!). While most people here report that it worked fine, the effect on my bass was simply that the lamp doesn't work any more - the sound didn't change at all.
Now I am asking myself: Which hum were people talking about? A hum when plugging an amp in to the big jack? I didn't have that. I have a noise (rather a white noise than a hum) when plugging headphones into the small jack and wanted to get rid of that one... Is this what you others were treating with mateybass's procedure?
Thank you!
(oh, and I used usual aluminium foil and glue, instead of aluminium tape or copper tape - shouldn't be a problem, right?)
Now I am asking myself: Which hum were people talking about? A hum when plugging an amp in to the big jack? I didn't have that. I have a noise (rather a white noise than a hum) when plugging headphones into the small jack and wanted to get rid of that one... Is this what you others were treating with mateybass's procedure?
Thank you!
(oh, and I used usual aluminium foil and glue, instead of aluminium tape or copper tape - shouldn't be a problem, right?)
The shielding procedure from Mateybass is to cure a low frequency hum when plugged into an amplifier just as you suspected. The white noise which you describe in the headphones is inherent in the audio amplifier used in the headphone circuit. (mine has it and I suspect they all do) Unfortunately, there are only 2 options to correct this: replacement of the amplifier, or filtering it out. Replacement is very difficult, and if you use headphones with a tone control to filter the white noise, you will lose the brightness and get a muddy sound. Since this circuit is only for practice, I choose to simply try to ignore the hiss.
Enjoy the Stagg!
Enjoy the Stagg!
I think I will enjoy my journey with Stagg. One question: do we know if those would fit Stagg? :
DADDARIO HELICORE HP610 M 3/4 or similar DADDARIO HELICORE HH610 M 3/4
I can not find the physical lengths of those (yet).
DADDARIO HELICORE HP610 M 3/4 or similar DADDARIO HELICORE HH610 M 3/4
I can not find the physical lengths of those (yet).
I am excited to say that I received a Stagg EUB today. I purchased this through Music Direct for a mere 500,and it's everything I wanted in my first EUB. Nice, warm tone, fairly well constructed for the price, lightweight, and the 3/4 scale makes switching from electric to upright fairly painless.
Not a bad deal if you are a beginner and in the market for an EUB.
Not a bad deal if you are a beginner and in the market for an EUB.
I received my Stagg without the wire braces for steadying it. I made one from copper plated steel wire which I coated with heat-shrink tubing to match the bass finish. It seems ok, but I just didn't like it.
Instead I have made a foot which clamps onto the endpin, allows the bass to tilt in any direction, but keeps it from rotating. I haven't used it much, but I think I am going to like it better.
Here are a some pictures:
Instead I have made a foot which clamps onto the endpin, allows the bass to tilt in any direction, but keeps it from rotating. I haven't used it much, but I think I am going to like it better.
Here are a some pictures:
Just about to get a Stagg myself. For those of you who think the neck is actually solid maple (or some such), there's a guy on one of the other forums who sanded down the entire bass and found some interesting things under all of those finishes:
http://www.euroguitars.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1726
It's pretty shocking to see that glue-composite job on something like this... All that glue and jointing looks like a lot of extra labour to me...
http://www.euroguitars.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1726
It's pretty shocking to see that glue-composite job on something like this... All that glue and jointing looks like a lot of extra labour to me...
Since a few weeks I have a Stagg 3/4 EDB. I've no previous DB experience (will start to take lessons) so can not make any comparisons. But so far I'm quite happy. I can't judge the adjustment myself but from what I read the action seems on the high side compared to what it should be. So, I plan to take it to a luthier for professional adjustment but I'd like to see how far I can get myself.
I have been able to lower the bridge a tiny bit before getting fingerboard buzz. Now I'm looking at adjusting the neck. I've not touched it but it liookes like I can adjust in similar way as that of a bass guitar. As it came the neck is slightly convex. The top part is almost flat. Towards the bridge it falls down a bit (1-2 mm) towards the body. This doesn't seem right to my unexperienced eyes. Right?
Are there some guidelines I could take into account when adjusting the neck?
Joost
I have been able to lower the bridge a tiny bit before getting fingerboard buzz. Now I'm looking at adjusting the neck. I've not touched it but it liookes like I can adjust in similar way as that of a bass guitar. As it came the neck is slightly convex. The top part is almost flat. Towards the bridge it falls down a bit (1-2 mm) towards the body. This doesn't seem right to my unexperienced eyes. Right?
Are there some guidelines I could take into account when adjusting the neck?
Joost
I did not get far with adjusting the neck so I brought it to a luthier. His assesment: very nice instrument but not well playable as is. Strings are way too high at the nut. But more important, as mentioned earlier, the fingerboard is flat (in the direction of the strings) while it should be concave. He's now shaving it in the proper shape. As the epoxy coating will be gone by then, he will oil the fingerboard instead. I'll keep you posted.
Joost
Joost
I just picked one of these awesome instruments with a hard case and a stand.
Honestly, I believe we are mostly spoiled when we complain about such an affordable yet well made instrument. Perfect? No. A great double bass like instrument that can fit in the ski compartment of my sedan so I can actually make money with it? Priceless!
It looks and sounds good. No hum, and headphone/mp3 inputs. I wish I had something like this years ago. 3 1/2 stars. If it had a better neck and lower action it would be perfect.
Honestly, I believe we are mostly spoiled when we complain about such an affordable yet well made instrument. Perfect? No. A great double bass like instrument that can fit in the ski compartment of my sedan so I can actually make money with it? Priceless!
It looks and sounds good. No hum, and headphone/mp3 inputs. I wish I had something like this years ago. 3 1/2 stars. If it had a better neck and lower action it would be perfect.
How's the nut-height on yours? The biggest playability issue I've seen is that the nut is WAY too high... Nearly everyone I know who bought one has had to shave the nut down and get those slots right down to the fingerboard...
Please take care to leave the space of one or two business cards between the string and fingerboard at the nut.
If you get the groove flush to the fingerboard, you may get buzzes.
Just my $0.02.
Whoops... sorry...usually on any of the Staggs I've played putting the nut nearly flush to the fingerboard gives you about a business-card in space just ahead of it on the fingerboard... Usually on most Staggs I've seen you can throw about 5 or 10 cards in there... ;-)
Truthfully the action could be lower, but since I play arco at times I need the nut to be just a little on the high side anyway.
After playing with it this morning I have adjusted my technique which made a wold of a difference in both playability and sound. Like I said, we are a spoiled lot. I remind myself that a buttery action, all carved acoustic contrabass is still $12000-$35000...and that I can compensate for a lot of things with the electronic part of the equation. Plus I don't have the kind of anxiety I have with my carved precious wood instruments. What a relief. It's easy to care and feed, and the Stagg EUB stand is awesome...sometimes I forget I'm playing a stick. It really does feel like the "real thing".
In my opinion, it's a great bass. I don't care where it was made. That's just silly.
I find it extremely difficult to bow on 'D' string properly - without accidental double-stopping. I'll either hit 'G' or 'A' string while bowing on 'D' string.
Is there a problem with Stagg EDB's bridge curvature? I dont have this problem on a acoustic double bass.
Is there a problem with Stagg EDB's bridge curvature? I dont have this problem on a acoustic double bass.
It's not a "problem" per se, just a different beast. I find that there is no one bridge that does it all, so I have my luthier cut mine from a blank. It's worth the time for a good luthier to adjust your instrument to your particular playing style.
Nut setup, a new bridge and fret dressing for the Stagg and you have a world class bass at less than half the cost of a student acoustic contrabass.
Did I mention that it sounds great? It really does. A lot of that has to do with the approach of the player as well ,I would imagine.
Ok...the Stagg is properly setup now and has very low action, with just enough string tension to still be properly bowed (arco) and no string buzz whatsoever. I bought a nice pair of headphones that live on the hanger on the back of the stand (originally intended for a bow? I prefer a quiver).
A few notes to consider:
1. Practicing via headphones is a glorious revelation.
2. Playing with the stand* and body attachments gives this stick wonderful dimensions to lean on and wrap my arms around...what a wonderful, familiar feeling that is. Now I can close my eyes, relax, and play.
3. The bad part is that the whole setup is really too light for tit's own good, and I have to be careful not to lift it up when I play certain passages that require me to lean over and dig in the upper register.
4. The neck would be better off if it didn't have that plastic coating. Maybe I'm just used to polished wood. I'll give it a chance since I mostly forget about it when playing and I'm not going to nitpick.
All in all...best bass I've had in a long time. Who knew?
*I highly recommend the Stagg brand EUB bipod stand. It's awesome.
A few notes to consider:
1. Practicing via headphones is a glorious revelation.
2. Playing with the stand* and body attachments gives this stick wonderful dimensions to lean on and wrap my arms around...what a wonderful, familiar feeling that is. Now I can close my eyes, relax, and play.
3. The bad part is that the whole setup is really too light for tit's own good, and I have to be careful not to lift it up when I play certain passages that require me to lean over and dig in the upper register.
4. The neck would be better off if it didn't have that plastic coating. Maybe I'm just used to polished wood. I'll give it a chance since I mostly forget about it when playing and I'm not going to nitpick.
All in all...best bass I've had in a long time. Who knew?
*I highly recommend the Stagg brand EUB bipod stand. It's awesome.
