Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread
- Thread starter derrenleepoole
- Start date
This place in the UK offers both versions:
http://www.guitarandampshop.co.uk/acatalog/Stagg_EDB_Electric_Double_Bass_Guitars.html
And here's a US retailer:
Invalid Link Removed
http://www.guitarandampshop.co.uk/acatalog/Stagg_EDB_Electric_Double_Bass_Guitars.html
And here's a US retailer:
Invalid Link Removed
Ok. Brought the staff to our gig last night. I played it on 5 songs. I have to say I've never had so many people come up and comment in a bass. Not even my 12 string bass. Maybe a double wick would do it. 5 people came up and asked about it and some people walked up and took pictures while I was playing.
Tons if fun. I'll bring it to most/all gigs.
Tons if fun. I'll bring it to most/all gigs.
So far 100% of those who responded have blue Stagg basses...
Update: One blue (me), two red and one honey so far, but only three voters. Some lucky so-and-so has two Stagg basses!
Just voted.
I'm new to upright basses so the longer scale length is taking a bit of getting used to. I have a strobe tuner app on my tablet that is fast enough to pick the notes up (at the speed I play) and indicate how my intonation is.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
It also stops me watching my fingers.
I'm new to upright basses so the longer scale length is taking a bit of getting used to. I have a strobe tuner app on my tablet that is fast enough to pick the notes up (at the speed I play) and indicate how my intonation is.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
It also stops me watching my fingers.
thanks for posting those links. I called Butler Music yesterday afternoon, got my asking price on a new, Deluxe Stagg (dark brown). Andy was very helpful. I then received a 'item has shipped email' about 30 minutes later. Nice, it's in transit.
Hope the bass arrives safely and in good, playable condition.
Hope the bass arrives safely and in good, playable condition.
I ordered the dark brown color and I think I can see some of that brown at times with some woodgrain showing thru. But I need to look at it under better lighting cause it really looks black to me right now.
The "new" 9 volt battery that came with it fizzled out in the time it took me to tune it. Glad it was just the battery, I thought the preamp had fried when I heard all that noise thru my headphones. No worries, installed a new battery and it was up and running loud as before.
I think I read here where some say the Deluxe model has no truss rod. Mine came with the truss rod key and sure seems to have a truss rod opening at the top of the neck. And from what I can tell this is def a rosewood board on my bass. Might this be another upgrade to the Deluxe; that is adding a truss rod?
Finally, coming from only ever playing EB's, even 6 stringers, I hope I can lower the action at the bridge or with the truss rod as my fingers were hurting after a few minutes of messing about with my new bass. Then again, I was just playing it like a EB as the proper left hand form I saw on some vids was very tough to maintain. The back of the neck has a sort of V shape that makes reaching around to the E string quite difficult for me while trying to keep my thumb in the proper place.
I'll take my time with it. For now I can live with the stock strings if I can get lower action soon. Though I have no buzzing anywhere on the neck and don't want to bring that on with too low strings either.
The bass sounds nice just at my first amp attempt on my TC-E BG250 (15") combo. I have other amps/preamps/cabs I'll try later. But after much more practice and proper technique attempts on my part.
The "new" 9 volt battery that came with it fizzled out in the time it took me to tune it. Glad it was just the battery, I thought the preamp had fried when I heard all that noise thru my headphones. No worries, installed a new battery and it was up and running loud as before.
I think I read here where some say the Deluxe model has no truss rod. Mine came with the truss rod key and sure seems to have a truss rod opening at the top of the neck. And from what I can tell this is def a rosewood board on my bass. Might this be another upgrade to the Deluxe; that is adding a truss rod?
Finally, coming from only ever playing EB's, even 6 stringers, I hope I can lower the action at the bridge or with the truss rod as my fingers were hurting after a few minutes of messing about with my new bass. Then again, I was just playing it like a EB as the proper left hand form I saw on some vids was very tough to maintain. The back of the neck has a sort of V shape that makes reaching around to the E string quite difficult for me while trying to keep my thumb in the proper place.
I'll take my time with it. For now I can live with the stock strings if I can get lower action soon. Though I have no buzzing anywhere on the neck and don't want to bring that on with too low strings either.
The bass sounds nice just at my first amp attempt on my TC-E BG250 (15") combo. I have other amps/preamps/cabs I'll try later. But after much more practice and proper technique attempts on my part.
If you use the truss rod, the fingerboard may separate from the neck. I assumed there is no truss rod (since it desn't make sense) on the RBL models.
Don't go too low with the action (minimum 5-9mm G to E), since if if itdoesn't buzz you cannot grab the strings well and the sound gets closer to a EBG sound then. You need to play the instrument several times a day for five to ten minutes to get the strength you need in your hands. After half a year you will laugh how hard it was at the beginning. Don't drop that schedule for too long or you will loose your power...
Don't go too low with the action (minimum 5-9mm G to E), since if if itdoesn't buzz you cannot grab the strings well and the sound gets closer to a EBG sound then. You need to play the instrument several times a day for five to ten minutes to get the strength you need in your hands. After half a year you will laugh how hard it was at the beginning. Don't drop that schedule for too long or you will loose your power...
for that info here, I will consider all of this. I am doing alot of Utube searching for advice on form/technique. I may consider a teacher if I stick with it.
Yes, I now planned to just pick it up for a few mins each day to try to get used to its' feel little by little.
I found a Utube vid of "Girl from Ipanema" with bass removed and I was able to play that fairly well. The E string at this point is unreachable w/o losing all finger form, so I stayed on the A-D-G strings.
It sounds OK I just need to put in the time, gradually, to get more used to it. Thought I'd be able to use it for some tunes at a April gig with my TX-blues-rock band. At this point prolly not.
Thanks again for all this info. Now, onto practice.
Yes, I now planned to just pick it up for a few mins each day to try to get used to its' feel little by little.
I found a Utube vid of "Girl from Ipanema" with bass removed and I was able to play that fairly well. The E string at this point is unreachable w/o losing all finger form, so I stayed on the A-D-G strings.
It sounds OK I just need to put in the time, gradually, to get more used to it. Thought I'd be able to use it for some tunes at a April gig with my TX-blues-rock band. At this point prolly not.
Thanks again for all this info. Now, onto practice.
A lesson or two with a teacher now, just as you're getting started, would probably be better than lessons down the road, once you potentially have bad habits that you need to break. Plus, switching from electric to upright improperly can actually cause injury to your left hand (or so I've heard, from multiple sources). Granted, I've only been playing upright for 2 years, but I am very thankful that I got lessons right away.
Lessons from the beginning is a very good idea. You can hurt yourself if you don't do it in a proper way. flaquito is absolutely right.
I got a call today for a sit in gig with a blues rock band tonite. I don't have any scheduled gigs with my regular band til mid April so I took it.
I was kinda concerned about having pain at the gig tonite considering how sore my arm/wrist and fingers, all leftside, felt the last couple days. But I took the gig. I broke out my Am St P5 that I planned to use tonite. I usually use the P5 for all my call/sit in gigs as it plays so nice and bands like its' tone. But the thickness of this bass' back of the neck aggravated my left hand pains.
I almost called to cancel the gig but I then tried my recently acquired Brubaker Brute MJX-5. That flat, wide neck felt so nice in my hands. Played some practice tunes at the house. Then played it all nite tonite with no pain during or after the gig. Let's see how it feels later on Sunday.
But nothing yet.
I will call around/check online for a teacher for the Stagg. I'm guessing I want a DB instructor then???
I was kinda concerned about having pain at the gig tonite considering how sore my arm/wrist and fingers, all leftside, felt the last couple days. But I took the gig. I broke out my Am St P5 that I planned to use tonite. I usually use the P5 for all my call/sit in gigs as it plays so nice and bands like its' tone. But the thickness of this bass' back of the neck aggravated my left hand pains.
I almost called to cancel the gig but I then tried my recently acquired Brubaker Brute MJX-5. That flat, wide neck felt so nice in my hands. Played some practice tunes at the house. Then played it all nite tonite with no pain during or after the gig. Let's see how it feels later on Sunday.
But nothing yet.I will call around/check online for a teacher for the Stagg. I'm guessing I want a DB instructor then???
Hi there, I'm new, nice to meet you.
I wondered if any of you can give me an answer: It is possible to replace a Stagg fingerboard with a rosewood or ebony one?
Also I wanted to replace the bridge, to improve vibration transmission to the piezo strandwire. I have access to some ebony and rosewood blocks and a luthier friend
.
Also, have anyone of you thought of replacing the tailpiece with a classic ebony one? (with some mod work, obviously).
have a nice day
I wondered if any of you can give me an answer: It is possible to replace a Stagg fingerboard with a rosewood or ebony one?
Also I wanted to replace the bridge, to improve vibration transmission to the piezo strandwire. I have access to some ebony and rosewood blocks and a luthier friend
.Also, have anyone of you thought of replacing the tailpiece with a classic ebony one? (with some mod work, obviously).
have a nice day
Hi,
Sorry if this question has been asked many times, but the thread is huge.
So the main difference between the Standard and Deluxe models is the rosewood fingerboard on the Deluxe model?
I ask because I'm going to buy my first EUB (and my only ever UB) in April. I'm considering between the Thomann Harley Benton EUB (I've done lots of research on it and am satisfied with what I've read) or a step up to the Stagg, and would like to be clear on the differences between the 2 Stagg models.
Thanks!
The body and electronics seem to be identical, apart from the metal braces being attached via screw fittings rather than a push-fit. The peg-box has been re-designed to make it stronger and less prone to breakage, and I think the machine-head posts may be a different design. Apart from that, it's just the fingerboard material.
The peg box is stronger on all new Stagg models now (if not then this is an older one).
The main difference is the rosewood fingerboard, but I played both one after the other and the rosewood one was worth the money. The sound was definately better.
If you ever need to plan the fingerboard, you will be happy to have the rosewood one, because the normal one has no separate fingerboard (the neck/fingerboard is one piece of wood) and the surface is painted, so the paint will go off if reshaping is needed and the brighter wood shines through. The trussrod won't help if the surface becomes uneven...
I think the Harley Benton is the Palatino. Read the Palatino Megathread(s), there is a lot that needs to be enhanced. Not an instrument to use the next day ...
The main difference is the rosewood fingerboard, but I played both one after the other and the rosewood one was worth the money. The sound was definately better.
If you ever need to plan the fingerboard, you will be happy to have the rosewood one, because the normal one has no separate fingerboard (the neck/fingerboard is one piece of wood) and the surface is painted, so the paint will go off if reshaping is needed and the brighter wood shines through. The trussrod won't help if the surface becomes uneven...
I think the Harley Benton is the Palatino. Read the Palatino Megathread(s), there is a lot that needs to be enhanced. Not an instrument to use the next day ...
I read a lot about the Harley Benton/Palatino and the Stagg before making my decision, and that was four years ago. The impression I got was that while the HB was more like a traditional double bass in terms of its design and hardware, the Stagg actually had a better sound and was generally more ready to play without a lot of modification. The HB is an attractive instrument to look at, with its scrolled peg-box and traditional contours; people have said that my Stagg looks like it comes from outer space (probably doesn't help that it's blue)! But it's the sound that counts. And that's where the Stagg delivers.
+1
And with the rosewood fingerboard they have corrected a design flaw and made the instrument still better.
The only cheap alternative I would look at is the Warwick Triumph Lite, but didn't have the opportunity to check it out.
(And with my old Clevinger I already have a good solid body EUB, so no need to look for something else.)
Thanks to all for their input and info.
I have read through the Palatino megathread, thanks
From my understanding, it is the Palatino but it also seems that Thomann does some extra quality control, thus picking the best of the bunch, perhaps with some updated mods, for the Harley Benton model. Although I agree that it seems the HB needs mods, it also seems that the main mod that made the most difference was simply placing some old inner tube material under the bridge and pickup. I don't mean to derail this thread by posting too much about the HB.
I'm sure that the Stagg is, off the shelf, a better instrument in some respects. However, other than believing that the HB will suit my needs physically and aurally, I also much prefer how it looks over the Stagg. This may not seem like much but, I learned many moons ago, that looks do play a big part in liking your tool of choice, be it instrument or otherwise.
The first time I bought a set of golf clubs, the sales rep's first comment was, "Get something that you like the looks of, because if you don't like the way they look, you won't want to grab them and use them". I found that this was a sage bit of advice.
I'll think about it some, but I'm leaning towards the HB.
Thanks again!
I have read through the Palatino megathread, thanks
From my understanding, it is the Palatino but it also seems that Thomann does some extra quality control, thus picking the best of the bunch, perhaps with some updated mods, for the Harley Benton model. Although I agree that it seems the HB needs mods, it also seems that the main mod that made the most difference was simply placing some old inner tube material under the bridge and pickup. I don't mean to derail this thread by posting too much about the HB.
I'm sure that the Stagg is, off the shelf, a better instrument in some respects. However, other than believing that the HB will suit my needs physically and aurally, I also much prefer how it looks over the Stagg. This may not seem like much but, I learned many moons ago, that looks do play a big part in liking your tool of choice, be it instrument or otherwise.
The first time I bought a set of golf clubs, the sales rep's first comment was, "Get something that you like the looks of, because if you don't like the way they look, you won't want to grab them and use them". I found that this was a sage bit of advice.
I'll think about it some, but I'm leaning towards the HB.
Thanks again!
About the fretboard, again: to say "fretboard and neck are one piece of wood" it's a statement that contradicts the specs of stagg. Neck should be in maple (altought various pieces of maple) and fretboard shoul be in laquered plywood. Even if you can't separate neck from fretboard you should be able to "sand" the fretboard away with a beltsander - down to the trussrod lodging - and then to glue a fretboard of your choice to the neck.
The real question is: is it a smart solution? I would prefer to replace the neck with another one (adapting a DB neck?).
Let me know your thoughts, and forgive me for the terrible english.
The real question is: is it a smart solution? I would prefer to replace the neck with another one (adapting a DB neck?).
Let me know your thoughts, and forgive me for the terrible english.
