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Stagg EUB megathread

Discussion in 'Electric Upright Basses (EUB's) [DB]' started by derrenleepoole, Jul 2, 2007.


  1. Ludwig

    Ludwig

    Aug 17, 2006
    Germany
    Concerning the Stagg ADBA 40 combo, that is supposed to go with EUB: very natural sound of a double bass, much more natural as with a standard electronic bass amplifier. Coupled with that is a reduced loundness for the 40W combo, a standard bass combo with 40W usually has much more boum. It sounds more like a PA then an instrument combo. Besides the instrument connection (only 47kOhm, you need a pre-amplifier for piezo), there is a microphone connection without shadow voltage. That can be used to amplify a double bass without any modification. Can be helpfull with filling a not to big room for a performance. Beside amplifying an EUB, probably would be very good for a singer/songwriter needing a microphone and guitar amplification.
     
  2. Richard Day

    Richard Day

    Aug 16, 2016
    Hi all, So I too bought a Stagg EDB with a broken headstock. I glued ot back together and restrung it to test it and it held fine for a couple of days until the repair started to slip and now I'm back to square one. As such, does anyone know where I can source a replacement neck? Thomann have stopped selling them and all my local Stagg retailers have drawn a blank. Any advice greatly appreciated!
     
  3. What about putting a sheet of ply or metal behind the headstock and glue and/or screw it to the reglued headstock parts? Did you use hide glue? If not remove the old glue (have a look at the DB setup and repair forum) and use hide glue to glue naked wood on naked wood.

    I guess this is the old narrow and thin old headstock, not the new one.
     
  4. M1234

    M1234

    Sep 1, 2016
    Hi All,
    An electronics question: since my Stagg EUB has a hissy headphone out and also eats batteries quite fast, I'm playing with the idea of making it passive, meaning disconnecting its own preamp and going out with a raw piezo signal. I know I'd need a good external preamp with this but I plan to have one anyway. Benefits would be I could forget about the battery and I could set everything on the preamp only, making life easier. Also, I could save some noise. I am good with the soldering iron, so no problems there. Can anybody give some advice? Is there some schematics available somewhere? I'd need some ideas about connecting the two wire pickups to the output jack. I'd try to find a way to somehow still have a volume pot on the EUB. So basically the idea is to make it exactly like a passive piezo bass.
    Any comments/ideas welcome. Thanks.
     
  5. A passive piezo should not have a volume pot, that lowers the impedance drastically an no preamp can change that.

    2nd: connecting two piezos in parallel compromises the sound too, so either use only one side pickup directly connected to the output jack or build a simple impedance buffer (mint-box or Quick'n'dirty) for each pickup and connect the outputs of both impedance buffers (behind the output resistors) together. If you want, you can wire a volume pot behind or the second stage of Francis Deck's HPFpre. Then you can use the second pot for the high pass filter (you may need to change the pot for a better resistance value.
     
  6. M1234

    M1234

    Sep 1, 2016
    Thank you! Wonderful idea. I think I'll go with your recommendation to build two separate buffers, one for each piezo, then connect their outputs and from that point build the 2nd (the filter) stage of HPF-Pre. Wonderful. I'll get back here once I made and tested it in case anybody else is interested in such a solution. Thanks again.
     
  7. murdomorrison

    murdomorrison

    Dec 5, 2016
    I have the same problem, bought on on eBay and it arrived damaged. Anyone got contact information for Stagg direct ?
     
  8. Ortsom

    Ortsom Banned

    Mar 23, 2016
    It may be difficult, but you can try EMD Music, Inc. (USA & Canada) at La Vergne, Tennessee, or their headquarters in Bruxelles on the Boulevard Général Wahis 16A (emdmusic.com). Of course these things came from China, and the stock of spare necks may have dried up.
     
  9. Naplesllew

    Naplesllew Supporting Member

    Apr 11, 2015
    Naples FL
    Anyone debating buying a Stagg EUB should go after the "deluxe" model. I have seen it recently on sale as low as the regular model, and there's no comparison, in my opinion. The rosewood fingerboard on mine required no rework, and the deluxe model (mine is the violin sunburst) played well out of the box. Other than enjoying swapping strings around to see what sounds best to me (and would meet the requirements of the various style of music I play), I have had to do no modifications at all.
     
    madbanjoman likes this.
  10. Alib8

    Alib8

    Aug 16, 2014
    Turkey
    Hi everyone,
    Can anyone tell me how much the Stagg EUB weighs?
    I have the Palatino/Harley Benton EUB but it is a pain to walk with its weight (about the same as my 3/4 acoustic bass). I was wondering if the Stagg is lighter.
     
  11. rolandm

    rolandm In search of the lowest note.

    Aug 8, 2010
    Peoria, IL
    About 21 pounds shipping weight.
     
  12. Long post warning.
    TL;DR I cured the dreaded endpin rattle by shoving a piece of plastic tube into the endpin hole in the cavity.

    Long version.
    I got sick of the endpin rattling so a few days ago took the long back cover off to see if I could easily cure it.

    Looking in the cavity the hole that the endpin slides in is oval, about 20mm x 15, presumably where the drill had "wandered" as it was being machined. (Yours may be different of course.) The endpin can rattle around in this hole, the noise is caused when it hits the sides.

    I measured the endpin diameter at 10mm so went looking for some plastic tubing that was a nice sliding fit over it. I had nothing even vaguely suitable but a neighbour had a piece of hard plastic tube of the correct ID with an OD of about 15mm, about 750mm long (30"). You only need about 500mm long (20")

    The endpin is prevented from dropping out (in the UK) by a aluminium rivet (USA models may be made of a different material :laugh:). I placed a piece of cloth across the body and down into the cavity to catch the filings and carefully filed the protruding ends of the rivet off. (I could have drilled it out but that would have meant going out in the cold.)

    Once the rivet ends were filed flush the endpin was removed. Working in the cavity I then pushed the plastic tube into the hole as far as I could easily push it (bending it slightly because I was working in the cavity). I marked the tubing about an inch from the top of the cavity so it was in no danger of touching the coaxial cables that run from the pickups.

    I then cut the tubing at the mark (and cleaned up the cut end with a file) and pushed it into the hole again, this time as far as I could with reasonable hand force. Trying to pull it out it didn't seem to need any adhesive. My original intention was to bond it in, time may well tell if I made the correct decision!

    I could have cut the tube shorter and replaced the rivet but didn't see the need as there is now sufficient friction to prevent the endpin from dropping out when the clamp is undone.
    I gave it a quick play to see if I could make it rattle - no, so I screwed the cover back on and played it for the next hour in celebration.

    Sorry there are no photos, I wasn't expecting the level of success I achieved and had it all back together before I thought about photo documenting it.

    I'm sure there are many more ways to stop the dreaded rattle but this was easy (for me) and works on my Stagg. The longest job was looking for suitable tube (and talking to my neighbour), the mechanical bit took about 15 minutes tops.

    Disclaimer - Do this mod at your own risk, I will not be held responsible in any way for damage you or your instrument may incur.
     
  13. RoadRanger

    RoadRanger Supporting Member

    Feb 18, 2004
    NE CT
    I have one due in on Wednesday - kinda wish I had read this thread through first and paid the extra for the rosewood fingerboard :( but it'll be mostly for play bluegrass so should be OK. I joined a bluegrass group on my fretted bass uke but some venues are kinda uppidy about you having at least an EUB.
    Anyways, anyone else playing bluegrass with theirs and any pointers? I'll probably go back to 1-5 playing at first until I can get around on it better - the scale is over 2x the bass uke's :wideyed: and most of my electrics are shortscales (28.5-30.5").
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
  14. If yours came like mine did, you wont have any setup problems, and the strings are fine for bluegrass until you get more used to it. I have some carpel tunnel issues, so, if you are like me, make sure and warm up. Do ten minutes or so of some slow scales or some 1-5s all up and down the fingerboard. After you are used to it, it will surprise you how fast the instrument actually can be.

    You look new to upright basses from your profile, so one thing to consider is your right hand. You will have to get used to pulling the string with the side of your finger to get that meaty thud. You will have to pull harder than you might think you would. That was the only learning curve that I had. If you move the string more with your fingertips it will sound less like an upright if you dont make sure to use a lot of force.

    For me, the upright feels much more natural.

    Just keep in mind, it is a different instrument than an electric bass guitar. Many of the same skills will translate, however, and from your profile, I guarantee you are probably a better player than me.

    I also seem to remember a lot of threads from a Google search that were along the lines of 'going from electric bass to upright bass' or several variations along those lines. Look into those threads.

    If you have any specific questions, message me and I will get back with you tomorrow.
     
  15. +1

    When I got my EUB I had been playing slab for almost 50 years and naturally started playing using that technique, my fingers very soon told me it was wrong.

    I looked on Youtube and found the videos by Chris Fitzgerald on left and right hand techniques for DB. If I find my technique slipping I go back and watch them again (especially for the LH which I seem to have most trouble with).
     
  16. RoadRanger

    RoadRanger Supporting Member

    Feb 18, 2004
    NE CT
    Yes, I've been messing about with 124 fretting to "get ready" as well as plucking with the side of the fingers. As I play short scales I'm used to 1234 fretting all the way up to the nut. I shouldn't need to go past the fifth "fret"so shouldn't need to learn how to play over the body - at least for now. A slight complication is that I play in "D" standard against everyone else in standard tuning but the decreased tension shouldn't be a problem on an EUB...

    Anyways I'll check out those videos, thanks!
     
  17. I just tried it on mine. The slacker strings make it easier to play and it is slightly more prone to buzzing but as long as you don't dig in too much you should be fine (mine is pretty bad at that if you dig in).
     
    RoadRanger likes this.
  18. The problem with string action is that the bridge is made for equal string height which is wrong. Putting the adjusters at different height doesn't work well, so if you don't cut he string grooves in the bridge deeper for he higher strings,either your high strings are too high for the left hand or the lower strings rattle.
    Be careful making the bridge grooves deeper, the bridge is made of wood with a thin layer of black epoxy which can easily chip off.

    The nut usually needs to be filed down a lot. The grooves should be no deeper than a third of the string diameter. The string height at the nut should be one or two business cards high.
    The nut is made of bad plastic and breaks easily. So have a piece of hard wood (I used a wood/synthetic composite) that can replace the plastic nut at hand in case it breaks when filing down.

    For bluegrass up to the fifth on each string the Stagg should work, if not, send it back (before modifying anything).

    The fingerboards are often without a camber and the trussrod does not do anything on this thick neck. Press the string down at both ends of the fingerboard. If there is no space between heel (fifth) and octave, your strings might rattle a lot and this can only be changed by a fingerboard dressing which doesn't look nice on the cheap necks without the rosewood fingerboard (epoxy layer on wood as on the bridge).
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2017
  19. +1

    The camber (finger board relief for slab players) on mine is almost zero, and the truss rod makes it very slightly worse unless slackened off to the point where it almost rattles.

    I thought about dressing the fingerboard myself but wasn't confident about making a good job of it and didn't want to spend money on it that would be better put towards a higher quality instrument.
     
  20. RoadRanger

    RoadRanger Supporting Member

    Feb 18, 2004
    NE CT
    Wow, just received mine - these things are freakin' HUGE and heavy. Guess that explains why they cost as much as they do. Gonna be hard to hide this from the wife LOL.

    The nut on mine isn't too bad but the bridge needs to come down and certainly isn't the right curvature to match the neck - the middle two strings are quite a bit higher that the outer ones. Mine was drop-shipped from Stagg and has what looks like a date code of 10/2/15 . I'm surprised they'd be that old in Stagg's US warehouse?
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2017