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Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread

#861
Howdy yall. Im a newb, so sorry if this is redundent or in the wrong spot.

I recently purchased used stagg eub. Realized the fingerboard scoop was horrible. Back bow actually. Proceeded to tweak the truss rod faithfully (somewhat) adhering to the 1/4 turn and wait theory. It took me a while to come to the realization that its flippin backwards!

Turning the truss rod adjuster counter-clockwise was increasing the tension and the back bow.

Started turning clockwise and felt pressure relief quickly, thus allowing string tension to pull the neck back to pretty close to perfect.

Ive poured over the mega thread, and never found this small but critical info on the truss rod. And it seems many of these basses have need for neck adjustment.

Ive heard many say the truss is worthless, but perhaps they were bass guitarists (like me) cranking the thing the wrong way.

Oh and it was 6mm allen key btw.

Hope this is usefull for someone : )
 
#862
jarobins said:
Howdy yall. Im a newb, so sorry if this is redundent or in the wrong spot.

I recently purchased used stagg eub. Realized the fingerboard scoop was horrible. Back bow actually. Proceeded to tweak the truss rod faithfully (somewhat) adhering to the 1/4 turn and wait theory. It took me a while to come to the realization that its flippin backwards!

Turning the truss rod adjuster counter-clockwise was increasing the tension and the back bow.

Started turning clockwise and felt pressure relief quickly, thus allowing string tension to pull the neck back to pretty close to perfect.

Ive poured over the mega thread, and never found this small but critical info on the truss rod. And it seems many of these basses have need for neck adjustment.

Ive heard many say the truss is worthless, but perhaps they were bass guitarists (like me) cranking the thing the wrong way.

Oh and it was 6mm allen key btw.

Hope this is usefull for someone : )
Click to expand...
You must have different model to me because mine takes a 4mm hex key and is RH thread. Yours sounds like it could possibly be a double acting truss rod.
 
#864
jarobins said:
Hmmm... Could be. Im not real solid on what double action is. How do tell the difference?
Click to expand...
A double acting truss rod allows you to put back and forward bow into the neck, a single acting only back bow.

When I turn mine counter clockwise it goes slack (and rattles when I play) then if I keep turning it tightens up but feels different to when turning it clockwise. It doesn't appear to put any forward bow in the neck. At that point I stopped turning because having sheered one rod (in about 1967) I have no desire to repeat the mistake.

Guitar Truss Rods: Which One Is Best For Your Next Guitar?
 
#865
Well this maybe the case. Is this "reversed" action typical of double acting truss rod?

I just know its backwards from every bass guitar ive ever worked on. And it took me a while to figure it out. Luckily in the nick of time before it began more extreme measures.

I threw caution to the wind and starting turning to the right. It was a gamble cuz it was so tight that it took a few rotations before i could feel the tension let up.

Im surprised not too have read about this already.

Have you adjusted yours? Was it standard righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?

There is obviously some variances with this model, as evidenced by the different size hex nuts. But this "reversed action" on such a sensitive part of an instrument is a pretty major thing in my eyes.

Maybe mine was built by a dyslexic left-hander. Haha
 
#866
jarobins said:
Have you adjusted yours? Was it standard righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?
Click to expand...
Mine appears to be a standard single acting one. As I said above if I turn it lefty it tightens up but doesn't feel as though it is doing anything useful so I didn't take it more than a mild tweak before I stopped turning.

When I got mine the finger board was almost flat, it buzzed like crazy. I slackened it off (lefty), to the point where the rod is almost loose enough to rattle. That improved it slightly but there was still not enough camber (scoop, relief) to play without buzzing.

I thought about planing it myself, I have plenty of BG/guitar experience but zero on DB/EUB so decide against it. If I messed it up I would be without it and need it for rehearsals.

I then thought about having it planed professionally. Again I would be without it for a while and the phrase about lipstick and pigs sprang to mind so I put that money towards a better EUB.
 
#867
Stagg 1.jpg
Stagg 2.jpg
New body rest...needs metric bolt...
 
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#870
I bought a Stagg EDB used and the stamped steel tuners were bothering me. I replaced them with some cast units from AllParts. Now I have 4 original tuners for a Stagg EDB I don't need. If you need to replace a broken tuner, PM me and i will ship one to you. These are from the newer EDB model with thicker head plates, but not the deluxe model.

As an aside, replacing the tuners wasn't very difficult. I had to drill and fill the existing screw holes. The new tuners and bushings fit in the through-holes. A drill press kept everything aligned.

I also put on some Helicore hybrid strings. What a difference in ease of playing, especially with a bow. The Stagg strings felt like long flatwound bass strings. The helicores were much more flexible.

Disclaimer: I'm new to double basses, even double-bass-like-plank-shaped-objects.
 
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#872
kwdemo said:
Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a bridge for a Stagg EDB??
Click to expand...
Better make your own. The bridge needs lower action on the higher strings and might not look nice after you hav done that and the adjusters are rather heavy. Maybe you can borrow an original Stagg bridge for a day or two to find the best string height and then give it back and make your own.
 
#875
ErikvanD said:
Hi Paolo,

You've got me puzzled here.. what do you mean with "keys"??

I only use the top pocket for the body support. The LH side support is somewhere in a box as I do not use it. I usually put the cable loose in the bag under the neck. Or between the FB and the bass body. When I take my amp with me too the cable goes in the amps gigbag. And of course a spare battery somewhere (and a spare set of strings when needed).
Click to expand...
Do you still have the side support ? If so, Would you sell it ?
 
#876
dbassdbt said:
I like that, how long is the bolt, and wood specs pls.
Click to expand...
The bolt is metric, the largest and longest I could find at my local Ace hardware. The bolt is about 6 inches long, don't know if it is fine or coarse thread. I took the real Stagg side rest with me to know what thread to buy. M5 sounds like the size but I really don't remember. I also bought the nut and a nylon washer that I epoxied to the bolt so I wouldn't scratch the bass. I bought a wood stake (for making a sign or as a marker) at Walmart, looks like poplar, and cut it to about 8". I epoxied the bolt flush into the wood and then sprayed urethane over it. I subsequently used heat shrink tubing to cover the bolt shaft and nut per the pick below. I wanted to center the bolt but it actually made it easier the way you see it to dig out the notches for the bolt head to sit flush. I'm not a wood worker and don't have a lot of tools. You want to get a piece of wood to have a width that you can sink the bolt head flush. This is way more comfortable to me then the stock rest and the bass does not twist using this.
stagg a.jpg stagg b.jpg
 
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#877
dbassdbt said:
Do you still have the side support ? If so, Would you sell it ?
Click to expand...

Maybe, what kind of scratch ($) were you thinking?

I also have an extra Stagg gig bag I am considering posting for sale too, but the zipper on one end doesn't work well. Stagg was good enough to give me a new gig bag free when I complained to them on Facebook messenger about it.

I got the Honey Stagg EUB bass in June for a total of $375 on ebay from a music store that was selling it as a B stock, since the body on the G string side had a substantial crack. I easily epoxied the crack and the body is very solid now. I first paid $475 (made an offer) when they were asking $600, but they didn't disclose the extent of the crack very well. They mentioned the crack in their disclosure but implied it was stable, but I could actually move the wood, and the gig bag it came with had the zipper issue. So when I complained they refunded me $100...the final cost was $375.

I also put heat shrink tubing (two layers) at the top of the end pin and that seems to have cured the post buzz.

As I mentioned previously, I really do not like the stock piezo pickups...next is to replace that...

And what is with the strap button on the heel of back of the neck, does that serve any real purposes?
 
#878
John Le Guyader said:
Maybe, what kind of scratch ($) were you thinking?

I also have an extra Stagg gig bag I am considering posting for sale too, but the zipper on one end doesn't work well. Stagg was good enough to give me a new gig bag free when I complained to them on Facebook messenger about it.

I got the Honey Stagg EUB bass in June for a total of $375 on ebay from a music store that was selling it as a B stock, since the body on the G string side had a substantial crack. I easily epoxied the crack and the body is very solid now. I first paid $475 (made an offer) when they were asking $600, but they didn't disclose the extent of the crack very well. They mentioned the crack in their disclosure but implied it was stable, but I could actually move the wood, and the gig bag it came with had the zipper issue. So when I complained they refunded me $100...the final cost was $375.

I also put heat shrink tubing (two layers) at the top of the end pin and that seems to have cured the post buzz.

As I mentioned previously, I really do not like the stock piezo pickups...next is to replace that...

And what is with the strap button on the heel of back of the neck, does that serve any real purposes?
Click to expand...
Got any pics?
 
#879
SubliminalKid said:
Got any pics?
Click to expand...
This is a description of what I did to epoxy and fix the body crack...sorry no pics of what I did:

I bought some hobby syringes (on Amazon) and filled one with plain old epoxy with a needle I could fit in the crack. I spread the crack open a bit with a small screw driver, but was careful not to worsen the crack. I put in as much as I could and used a clamp to hold it closed. I had to take the neck off to do it since the crack was in the back corner of the right side and the crack went clear through to the back. You can see the crack in the finish on the back of the body, but the crack is totally stable. Use acetone to thin the epoxy if it is too thick. I was able to get enough in to get the job done without thinning the epoxy, but it was a little tough and you don't have much time to act before the epoxy starts to thicken beyond the point it won't flow through the needle. In my situation I could move the crack with my hand but I still needed to hold it open with a screw driver to the needle in. I have no pics of the process.

I suppose I could have used wood glue or some other kind of glue like Gorilla glue, but I thought given the nature of the crack that epoxy would be strongest to keep it closed forever.
 
#880
Hey all, I just discovered that the Stagg battery life problem is a known issue. Mine has this problem, but I'm not near enough to any Stagg dealer that can get replacement electronics through. Anyone have any recommendations of a dealer I can go through to get a replacement module shipped directly to me? I can do the actual replacement myself, but it seems that Stagg only works through dealers.

Barring that, I might just pull the guts out entirely and make my own buffering pre-amp with gain control. Has anyone else replaced the electronics with something non-Stagg?
 

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