I think there is a good reason why DB bridges have a small cut out in the middle and at the edges. That way the bridge can wiggle on the two parts connecting the upper part of the bridge to the lower part.
So you might want to start with a bridge with no cut outs and then proceed with either the inner or outer cut outs (probably coping the amount scaled to your bridge from a DB bridge) and then the other cut outs and listen what happens to the sound.
And maybe try to have the two connecting wood parts centered between two strings to avoid that kind of problems you have with your current bridge.
Personally I swapped necks some days ago (getting my old honey with a new rosewood neck after getting the tuners for it). For the older neck and the newer body (without electronics) I will take the Stagg bridge after making a new one for the honey, but that make take some months. So I' m interested in your experiences with your new bridge.
BTW, I was also thinking about leaning the bridge more to the tailpiece to half the string angle at the bridge by putting some angled wood in the holes for the bridge so that the angled bridge sits perpendicular on it when halfing the string angle. Just one more idea for your modifications, I did this with my Clevinger, since the bridge was falling towards the fingerboard after unscrewing it from the body.
Good luck with your next bridge!