Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread

[DoubleMIDI]

Thanks for taking away the 'fear' of neck-tilt mods Have been able to stay away from neck-shims on 'normal' electrics, but if the Schaller doesn't fit properly I'll sure consider angling the neck.

Interestingly/surprisingly, Schaller has stopped manufacturing pickups already quite a while ago (as I was told by Schaller directly), so all their related docs also gone. The Thomann-info for this pickup then the only available info.
A kind & friendly person @ Thomann did a few measurements though, and as it turns out this pickup seems to have 2 coils, which are however & unfortunately not arranged like say the Precision pickup does (so not taking the opportunity to realize a humbucking action).

Bye

I once had a Schaller (40 years ago …) and it is sensitive to electromagnetic noise. It was stolen with my old ply bass and at that time I already had a better instrument with a better pickup.
I only got it because the only quickly available pickup before the first gig didn’t work for me.

BTW, both of my Staggs have the mod for a larger neck tilt, but keep in mind that you also get more pressure onto the body which means more pressure onto the piezo pickups.
The older ones have a carved line in the bridge feet for the piezo wire, but newer ones simply compress with the whole flat area of the bridge feet.

 

[clintrubber]

That's interesting, you had this same kind of Schaller pickup? ([This invalid link has been removed])

With all this chrome, looks indeed like a design from quite some time ago.

Don't intend this to be the only pickup to use (the Stagg has the piezo's of course), but am sure interested to see what this added pickup could add when blended-in just a little bit - I understood this Schaller pulls the sound towards electric bass, which I'd like to stay away from).

 

[DoubleMIDI]

That's interesting, you had this same kind of Schaller pickup? ([This invalid link has been removed])

At that time they had a different volume knob, but otherwise it looks the same.

The sound was not like the acoustic sound of the instrument, but not too bad. But a bass guitar sounds different, probably because of the strings and scale length.
If you want to play in higher positions (down the fingerboard in thumb position) be warned that the strings get a lot closer to the coils and therefor louder. Since the string action is higher on a DB/EUB than on a BG, this effect is stronger on DB/EUB. And unlike a BG you don’t have a magnetic bridge pickup to switch to if you want to play that high.

 

[clintrubber]

Thanks for sharing these experiences. Those level differences, will check for/keep in mind/adjust playing.

I saw some DIY-mounting-device (), might be good to make something alike, to avoid drilling in the fingerboard.
We'll see how it'll all fit, the pickup hasn't arrived yet.

Bye

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Some other magnetic pickups for DB use the Velcro-method too. But it should be a bit longer than in the video.

Since the Stagg EUB doesn’t have a carved inside end of the fingerboard like DB, a flat Velcro contact works, but for a DB the edges are too narrow to hold the pickup well.

 

[clintrubber]

The DIY-adapter of the video could indeed use a bit more velcro.

The rear of the Stagg EUB fingerboard is flat, easier to make a DIY-adaptor for. And complete surface could have velcro, unless the velcro-joint wins from the fingerboard attachment to the body of the EUB

 

[DoubleMIDI]

I wouldn‘t put the sides around the fingerboard because that’s the place where your thumb resides when you pluck.
A wider strip of Velcro at the end of the fingerboard and a point in the middle a bit higher under the fingerboard for stabilization should be enough.

I know that the Stagg has a flat underside, I have some of them…

 

[oturk]

Hi,

Does anyone know the exact size of the truss rod adjustment tool required for Stagg 3/4 EUBs?

Thanks!

 

[336v]

Hello,

I've received my stagg yesterday, I've got one few years ago, but this one look better, finish is good, no buzz etc...
Quite happy with.

Maybe could you help, what's the use of the nut hole pic 3, and the use of the piece on pic 4 ?
This threaded hole and bilt in your hand are to prevent end pin from rsttling - it jams the pin against the wall of carved cavity for the pin.

 

[336v]

Hello,

I've received my stagg yesterday, I've got one few years ago, but this one look better, finish is good, no buzz etc...
Quite happy with.

Maybe could you help, what's the use of the nut hole pic 3, and the use of the piece on pic 4 ?

This threaded hole and bilt in your hand are to prevent end pin from rsttling - it jams the pin against the wall of carved cavity for the pin.

 

[rumblinbass]

I am going to check one out tomorrow.
Anything in particular I should look out for?

 

[DaBassman]

I had to have mine converted to a lefty... and initially played it while sitting on a tall stool, which worked ok. because I play the Stagg, as well as my Fender P-bass in my blues band, I ended up buying a stand for the Stagg, so I can easily switch back-and-forth.... https://www.amazon.com/Stagg-E-Double-Bass-E-Cello-Stand/dp/B00BIP5N6W/ref=asc_df_B00BIP5N6W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312165945081&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4004940179701974174&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015582&hvtargid=pla-588245650024&psc=1

BUT, if you're interested in one of these, I'd suggest shopping around; eBay etc., as the shipping on this one seems quite high...

Hi. I’m a lefty just thinking of getting one and flipping it. Have you been happy with yours? Any tips or suggestions? Happy New Year!

 

[BlacksHole]

Hi. I’m a lefty just thinking of getting one and flipping it. Have you been happy with yours? Any tips or suggestions? Happy New Year!

You might have to work on the bridge or flip it as well

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Flipping the bridge should do as the bridge is badly made for DB. Equal height for all strings doesn‘t work well for an (E)DB.
But you need to make a new nut as it is badly made as well, different slot widths and breaks easily.

But if you ever want to play an acoustic DB in the future, better get used to play the normal right handed instrument NOW. They cannot be converted that easily. It would be VERY expensive to let a luthier do that. You cannot do that yourself.

 

[DaBassman]

I have a friend who is a luthier and he’s going to redo nut and any bridge work needed. Didn’t want to start out with a true lefty double bass as I’m 66 and always played bass guitar. Figured if I didn’t like it it would be very difficult to sell. Plus it wouldn’t fit in my car for gigs! Lol. Happy New Year

 

[mgbass69]

Thank you all for sharing so much info. After receiving this from a co-worker of my wife, I’ve spent the last week reading all 53 pages of this thread and have done several mods.
37+ years on EB, now time to tackle this monster!

 

[sixway]

Hi. I’m a lefty just thinking of getting one and flipping it. Have you been happy with yours? Any tips or suggestions? Happy New Year!

Hi. I’m a lefty just thinking of getting one and flipping it. Have you been happy with yours? Any tips or suggestions? Happy New Year!

I've enjoyed playing my Stagg over the years, but I've had an interesting history with mine... When I bought it, I took it to a local luthier, to have it switched over to a lefty. He put on a new nut (bone if I recall), reversed the bridge (that's an easy thing to do), and he also took the time to drill-and-install dots on the side of the fingerboard, to mark where the 3-5-7-9-12 fret spots would be... he did a great job, and cost me somewhere around $150 or less...

All was good for the next year or so, then I had a lull in my need for it, so I put it in the corner (it was in it's original soft case). About nine months later, my Blues band started to rehearse again, so I put it in the car, and headed for practice. Imagine my absolute surprise when I unzipped the softcase, and the headstock fell out of the case, with the strings still attached! I was understandably upset, and tried to think just how I could have manhandled it to cause the headstock to break off. As I looked at the break between neck/headstock, it was apparent that the wood it was made with was almost as soft as balsa wood, and not something like Maple, or Mahogany etc... a wood that could withstand the tension created by the length of the neck, and string pressure.

I did research on the internet, and found multiple stories of the same "issue" occurring with other Stagg owners, who had bought their Stagg around the same time as I did. It turns out that that specific run of Stagg EUB's were all made with a defective batch of wood, and why their headstocks were snapping off... Someone had posted a contact number/email address for a Stagg Rep, so I wrote him, including pictures, and links to other owners who had had the same catastrophic failure as I did. He was very professional, know exactly what had happened, and didn't hesitate to inform me that a new neck, made with sturdier wood, would be in the mail quickly, and absolutely NO charge to me!

The new neck arrived, and I set about to install it on my Stagg body. Now, I wasn't about to take it to my luthier, and spend another $100-150 to have it installed, and being a finish carpenter, I decided to do it myself. What I had to do was, I had to take the tuners off, and drill new holes to screw the tuners to the new neck/headstock (the string post holes were already drilled, but the small screw holes to hold the tuners on had to be drilled by me). After that, I had to put the neck in the neck pocket, took a drill just slightly smaller than the neck holes, gently drill just enough to start the holes on the neck, separate them, and drill in to a depth that would include the finish depth, taking into account the body, and length of the screw. I took my time, and got it all together. The only thing missing was those cool dot markers that had been installed in the original neck. So... I got creative, bought a bottle of iridescent silver finger nail polish, grabbed my tuner, started plucking the E-string, and painting little dots on the side of the neck, at all of the appropriate spots... It all worked out great!

Now, the only problem I've had lately is (and, if you read through most of this thread you'll see this common problem), I've begun to have issues with the electronics, where it starts cutting out, or sounding like there is static in the system, so I have to deal with that. Otherwise, I really enjoy playing it, and the audience and band members like the sound, and how it stands out on stage. And, having it setup on the stand that I posted, allows me to go back and forth between it, and my 78 Fender P-bass whenever the song the band is playing needs one, or the other...

So, if you have carpentry skills, follow my story above, and go for it... just take your time. Otherwise, find a reputable guitar tech, and have it done. The only issue you'll face is the left hand nut... but that's not really a big deal... Go for it!

 

[Deleted member 396076]

Hello, I am preparing to do some mods to my stagg and was hoping to clarify a few things before I get started. I am planning to fit a new bridge and tailpiece, and install a krivo pickup to the end of the neck.
My first question is about the neck angle enlargement. I have heard that it is relatively easy to do on this instrument, but it looks like the krivo will require a substantial tilt of the neck to fit. How much can I change the abgle of the neck before I need to make a custom shim and/or re-drill the screw holes in the neck?
My second question is about the tailpiece, or more specifically the endpin. I would like to hang a tailpiece to reduce the afterlength. Is the endpin suitable/durable enough to accommodate this, or would I need to replace it? I have seen at least one example earlier in this thread, but I would like to hear some opinions.
Thanks to all,
SMH

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Neck angle:
Put down the strings, unscrew the neck, put some cardboard or thin shim at the inner side of the pocket only and screw the neck back. The screws might be a bit more tense because of the changed angle but not much. Maximum shim thickness 1 mm.
The bridge needs to get higher and therefor the pressure on the piezo is raised. It might damage the piezo quicker over time. Still works after several years on mine.

For the underlength:
I simply put a sponge (with a chemical isolating piece of cardboard underneath) at the bottom half of the underlengths. That damps the sound of the underlength well. Choose a color that looks good on your instrument.

 

[Deleted member 396076]

Thanks for the reply, if I may ask for some further details..

How much are you able to change the angle with a 1mm shim? I am afraid that in my rough tests to find out how tall that shim needed to be that I am going to require something closer to a 4 or 6 mm wedge. I am not concerned with the piezo.. it will ultimately be replaced anyway, but I do need to get a few inches between the body and the back of the fingerboard.

Regarding the tailpiece, I have been muting those strings with a piece of clear rubber tube arched across them, but now I want to move the whole thing altogether. I have an old tailpiece that I plan to shorten and hang from the endpin, and I was just curious if anyone had any insight as to whether it would be sturdy enough for the job. There is one example earlier in this thread of a hanging tailpiece, but it is hard to tell from the picture of the endpin was replaced.

Thanks again,
SMH