That looks awesome! I don’t see why you feel you’d want to change it further. It looks done, and great!
Have you noticed a difference in tone or playability?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread
- Thread starter derrenleepoole
- Start date
Have you noticed a difference in tone or playability?
BTW, I finally started trying arco...
I know I definitely need a lot more practice and lessons, but how do more experienced players find the stock strings to bow? I ask because most of my strings sound good, except for the G string which gets incredibly nasally and scratchy, especially when I fret it, it
I know I definitely need a lot more practice and lessons, but how do more experienced players find the stock strings to bow? I ask because most of my strings sound good, except for the G string which gets incredibly nasally and scratchy, especially when I fret it, it
D
Thanks for the kind words. I'm hesitant to comment on tone and playability as it is not a finished product, but I will say that I don't really feel the need to dampen the afterlength anymore.. subject to change of course. If I keep it I will need to refinish to cover the cut line. It's only really visible from the bottom, but I know it's there.
I don't personally find the stock strings to be terrible for arco, but there are better options. I prefer spirocore, but it is subjective.
I don't personally find the stock strings to be terrible for arco, but there are better options. I prefer spirocore, but it is subjective.
Yeah, I figured it was mostly my technique LOL.
I certainly understand the “I know it’s there” conundrum, but it does look great from that picture. I have been contemplating something similar, and I think you just convinced me to do it eventually.
I would have kept the tailpiece a bit longer and would have removed the block where the strings were running through originally.
Maybe a thin piece of wood or metal to cover the screw holes and an angled piece (of metal) to protect the edge where the tailgut runs over.
The way you did it takes some pressure from the bridge and pickups. Might be a bit low. String can jump out of the bridge groove more easily.
Maybe a thin piece of wood or metal to cover the screw holes and an angled piece (of metal) to protect the edge where the tailgut runs over.
The way you did it takes some pressure from the bridge and pickups. Might be a bit low. String can jump out of the bridge groove more easily.
D
That is correct, but the replacement bridge will be approximately twice the height of the current one which will greatly alter that angle. I may still end up removing the stock tailpiece and fabricating a new block/saddle piece.. what you have described is basically what I have in my notes minus the metal and using all hardwood. However, my family is currently taking my priority, and so doing it this way allowed me to get it onto the bass without going through all of that production at this time. If I decide that it needs a new end block after the bridge goes on then I have the pieces ready to go, but this is serving it's purpose for now.
D
... it is not exactly clear from that photo, but the tailpiece is currently hanging from the original stock tailpiece and not actually from the endpin as was originally the plan, so that may alter things before it's all done as well. But I thought I should be more clear, that block is not just functioning as a saddle at this point, it's also the anchor.
If you enter the tailgut from below the tailpiece and fiddle it through the original string holder block where the strings did run through previously you get the original height. You can run the tailgut back through the inner holes (A & D) if you want have easier access to the knot.
A hardwood saddle would be nicer than metal, but a medium soft metal should be easier to prepare. Maybe for a first test…
No need to hurry up.
A hardwood saddle would be nicer than metal, but a medium soft metal should be easier to prepare. Maybe for a first test…
No need to hurry up.
D
DoubleMidi I feel like your thoughts and mine are running parallel on this project. I did in fact have the cord mounted as you suggested to maintain the original height initially and only moved it in preparation for the taller bridge. It is currently passing from the tailpiece down over the front of the original block, and then I threaded the two ends up through the A and D holes and tied the knot at the top of the original block. I do have a piece of hard maple and a spare ebony saddle if I decide to go that way, but I suspect that the new bridge may require a higher saddle than I originally anticipated, so I'm kind of liking the current arrangement. Of course the replacement bridge will tell me which way to go. I'm not entirely confident in the endpin to handle that pressure, but the stock tailpiece was designed for it, so that may influence the decision as well.
I'll post more as I get the time to work on it.
I'll post more as I get the time to work on it.
D
This seems to be a normal adjustable DB bridge. (Maybe for a fractional instrument.) That might be too high.
I think others have tried an Eminence bridge which might be lower and has plain feet, not angled ones.
If I ever try to make a replacement bridge for my Stagg (which is not my main EUB) I make it out of one solid piece of wood. Probably beech if maple is not easily available to me. At least for a prototype.
If you try to use such a high bridge you need to change your neck angle or add an overstand for the neck (or both).
In that case you are right that the tailgut needs to run higher, but due to the larger string angle over the bridge the pressure to the piezo might rise several times to the current one which might destroy the piezo (over time).
You can measure the string angle with the original and the replacement bridge, draw a parallelogram with equal length sides for both angles and measure the smaller inner height. That would be proportional to the pressure on the bridge.
It might be possible to calculate it mathematically, but I feel this is the easier and more understandable method to get the basic idea (parallelogram of forces; the tension force on both sides of the bridge is equal, so equal length sides).
I think others have tried an Eminence bridge which might be lower and has plain feet, not angled ones.
If I ever try to make a replacement bridge for my Stagg (which is not my main EUB) I make it out of one solid piece of wood. Probably beech if maple is not easily available to me. At least for a prototype.
If you try to use such a high bridge you need to change your neck angle or add an overstand for the neck (or both).
In that case you are right that the tailgut needs to run higher, but due to the larger string angle over the bridge the pressure to the piezo might rise several times to the current one which might destroy the piezo (over time).
You can measure the string angle with the original and the replacement bridge, draw a parallelogram with equal length sides for both angles and measure the smaller inner height. That would be proportional to the pressure on the bridge.
It might be possible to calculate it mathematically, but I feel this is the easier and more understandable method to get the basic idea (parallelogram of forces; the tension force on both sides of the bridge is equal, so equal length sides).
D
This is in fact an Eminence bridge, it is a bit lower but the feet are angled and have to be fit. I think that I am the "others". There is a reference to the Eminence much earlier in this thread, post 380 on page 19, but it is only to ask why not use a 1/2 size bridge instead. That post refers to the Eminence as a "popular replacement" for the Stagg, but I don't believe there is any mention of anyone actually using one. The answer about the 1/2 size bridge vs the Eminence is that the arch is less than compatible on the 1/2 size. I can't explain in specific detail, but I had a long email conversation with the nice people at Gollihur who could. They even drew me pictures.. I'm sure I wore them out with my questions.
I had considered making a bridge from scratch, but my background is a kind of mashup of full orchestra/jazz band mixed with dirty smelly punk clubs. A sort of Mozart meets Mudhoney. As such, I am very much more acclimated to the whole diy modding of pawn shop gear. It's part of why I chose the Stagg to begin with.
I imagine that both the angle and the overstand will have to be altered considerably, and that is the next thing I plan to deal with when I get more time. I had not considered when I started all of this the potential of crushing those piezo cables as you have pointed out, but as you know I am also installing the magnetic pickup along with the bridge. I do also have some other options for a piezo that does not mount under the bridge feet, so I suppose I will just replace the stock piezo when/if the time comes. I don't feel like the stock pickup is garbage, and I don't really feel like it "needs" magnetic pickups either.. but as I mentioned before, it's all just sitting there anyway.. may as well put it to use.
I had considered making a bridge from scratch, but my background is a kind of mashup of full orchestra/jazz band mixed with dirty smelly punk clubs. A sort of Mozart meets Mudhoney. As such, I am very much more acclimated to the whole diy modding of pawn shop gear. It's part of why I chose the Stagg to begin with.
I imagine that both the angle and the overstand will have to be altered considerably, and that is the next thing I plan to deal with when I get more time. I had not considered when I started all of this the potential of crushing those piezo cables as you have pointed out, but as you know I am also installing the magnetic pickup along with the bridge. I do also have some other options for a piezo that does not mount under the bridge feet, so I suppose I will just replace the stock piezo when/if the time comes. I don't feel like the stock pickup is garbage, and I don't really feel like it "needs" magnetic pickups either.. but as I mentioned before, it's all just sitting there anyway.. may as well put it to use.
D
As long as I am digging up old posts in this thread, on page 30 post 588 is exactly what I would like to know more about. The picture is a bit more artistic than informative, but it clearly shows the tailpiece saddled and hanging from the endpin. It looks like the stock endpin with a custom tailpiece.
I know it's a longshot, but if Bassregulator still happens to be around I would love to know more about this mod, specifically if it is still holding up. I have some reservations about the durability of that endpin, but if it can handle the stress of the hanging tailpiece I would be very interested to know.
I know it's a longshot, but if Bassregulator still happens to be around I would love to know more about this mod, specifically if it is still holding up. I have some reservations about the durability of that endpin, but if it can handle the stress of the hanging tailpiece I would be very interested to know.
It looks like he hasn’t been online for nearly two years, but you may want to quote that post with your questions in case he does happen to log in
It might have been a former post of you. My mind doesn‘t keep things for long…
Forgot that the Eminence has a curved top.
Since you had the things in your mind, I‘m sure you find a good way to handle it.
Maybe you cut the legs shorter, maybe add a piece of wood below to distribute the pressure to the piezo wire. You might loose the adjusters that way.
I once tried to make a new bridge for my Clevinger, but didn‘t got beyond the basic shape yet. I have other things to change there that are more important but don‘t find the time to do it.
D
I'm right there with you, and then COVID left me slower and more forgetful.. I think that's when I started writing everything down.
I'm kicking around a few ideas regarding the bridge.. variable heights really. I'll post more when I have decided and can get more time.
Thanks again for all of the discussion, from everyone.
I'm kicking around a few ideas regarding the bridge.. variable heights really. I'll post more when I have decided and can get more time.
Thanks again for all of the discussion, from everyone.
D
I'm curious how this is holding up as I would also like to float the tailpiece from the endpin, but I have some reservations regarding it's strength and ability to handle the pressure.
This may have been covered elsewhere but…. I have a buzz on my D string at the G position. Trying to avoid a fingerboard job. Any suggestions on what might be going on? Thanks in advance!
Clean fingerboard and string. Might not help but worth a try.
You can rise the action a bit too.
Can also be a defective string.
But I think you need to get that part of the fingerboard dressed.
You can rise the action a bit too.
Can also be a defective string.
But I think you need to get that part of the fingerboard dressed.
I was a bit busy during the last week.
Now I found that I have bent my Stagg EDB body support of my home Stagg too, so here are a few pictures of it.
I did wanted to change the angle of the part pressing against my body so that both parts of the U press at the same amount when I angle the bass a bit backwards.
To avoid shortening the rod which would not be reversible I rather bent the upper part to make the distance between U and body mounting point shorter.
This was done with the old body support mounting with the rubber tube in the body, not the newer screw-on mounting.
Now I found that I have bent my Stagg EDB body support of my home Stagg too, so here are a few pictures of it.
I did wanted to change the angle of the part pressing against my body so that both parts of the U press at the same amount when I angle the bass a bit backwards.
To avoid shortening the rod which would not be reversible I rather bent the upper part to make the distance between U and body mounting point shorter.
This was done with the old body support mounting with the rubber tube in the body, not the newer screw-on mounting.
