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Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread

#581
In order to answer my question about how much wood can be taken off the neck at the nut, it looks like I am going to either have to buy the bass and bring it to a bass luthier or find a bass luthier who is familiar with the bass.

The Stagg website states that the deluxe rosewood model has a: “One piece, Maple neck and headstock.”

I emailed the distributor for Stagg asking to confirm that it is one piece. I also asked him if it was a hard/rock maple or a soft maple and about the species of maple.
 
#582
I received the following message from the Stagg distributor:

"Our standard model has a massive maple neck and fingerboard in one . It is indeed a coated fingerboard . The wood is not the real hardwood . Unsure of origin but it's a semi hard degree of hardwood . The real hardwood would make the bass double the price . It's hard to imagine how much the luthier will need to remove from the neck but he will have to coat the fingerboard again. For the stability of the neck I don't think there will be a problem.

For the EDB DL, the rosewood fingerboard has a thickness of 7 mm on the side so if the luthier has to change the shape there is a limit to to the change . Under the fingerboard we use the same semi hard maple wood."


I forwarded the information to a bass luthier. I will wait to see what he has to say before making a final decision, but I am still uneasy about the prospect of purchasing the bass with the intention of modifying it to approximate my acoustic upright. The fingerboard on an acoustic upright is typically made of ebony and is more than twice as thick.

The string tension on an acoustic upright is much greater though, so I might still be okay ... unless I decide to do further modifications to increase string tension.

This originally looked like a great platform to make an EUB that would feel and play more like an AUB but it may be that I would be better off either accepting it as it is or looking elsewhere.

I have considered the Ergo but I want a bass with an endpin and body support. Modifying the Ergo is not likely to be so straight forward either.
 
#583
fooloso4 said:
I received the following message from the Stagg distributor:

"Our standard model has a massive maple neck and fingerboard in one . It is indeed a coated fingerboard . The wood is not the real hardwood . Unsure of origin but it's a semi hard degree of hardwood . The real hardwood would make the bass double the price . It's hard to imagine how much the luthier will need to remove from the neck but he will have to coat the fingerboard again. For the stability of the neck I don't think there will be a problem.

For the EDB DL, the rosewood fingerboard has a thickness of 7 mm on the side so if the luthier has to change the shape there is a limit to to the change . Under the fingerboard we use the same semi hard maple wood."


I forwarded the information to a bass luthier. I will wait to see what he has to say before making a final decision, but I am still uneasy about the prospect of purchasing the bass with the intention of modifying it to approximate my acoustic upright. The fingerboard on an acoustic upright is typically made of ebony and is more than twice as thick.

The string tension on an acoustic upright is much greater though, so I might still be okay ... unless I decide to do further modifications to increase string tension.

This originally looked like a great platform to make an EUB that would feel and play more like an AUB but it may be that I would be better off either accepting it as it is or looking elsewhere.

I have considered the Ergo but I want a bass with an endpin and body support. Modifying the Ergo is not likely to be so straight forward either.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are right. If I had a choice of investing money in Stagg or making at luthier I would chose the second one. In my case, the instrument came accidentally and I tried to modify it to improve it. As for Ergo I have one and I modified it also. If you are interested write private message.
 
#584
You can also have a look at the Palatino. A lot to modifiy there and it was done by many people.
The Stagg RDL is much better than the regular one. I checked them one after the other. Also the RDL fingerboard could be planed like a regular fingerboard, putting any kind of coating on the fingerboard might bring back some humps and buzzes.

For a modification of the neck profile you should search for something else than a Stagg. Maybe you should check out the Warwick Triumph lite and the Palatino and it's versions under different brand names.

The good thing is you can buy a new neck for a Stagg if you ruined one doing modifications...
 
#587
Hey folks:

This megathread is great -- it did help me decide if the Stagg was worth getting or waiting out until better funds prevailed. I got my TransRed this week and have already worked several of the pointers into this bass. In general, I am very happy with this new acquisition.

First, a comment.. from reading all of this thread from page 1 onwards, it does seem that Stagg has made efforts to improve the product over time. I am happy to say that things like thin headstocks, bumps in the fingerboard, leaning bridges, ground and shielding issues, and so on are just not present on my bass.

I have two items of concern:

First is probably an obvious answer -- the strings. I really don't know how to judge the quality of these strings since they are such a different beast than my usual EB strings. Once I got the strings up to a reasonable stable pitch, I was noticing a really bad buzz around the c# area on the A string. I checked the board really well to make sure there was not a high spot -- nothing that I could detect. Later, I went ahead and wiped down the stings, and did notice something -- in that area of the string, I had a thin lint-free cloth wrapped around the string and my finger underneath, and felt a kink or twist in the string itself. Not severe and not even visible, but felt. The rest of the string itself is fine, as well as the rest of the strings (well, the E is a bit muffled, but I was planning on giving the contact points at the bridge and nut a really good lookover later). Being that I am a UB string novice, I put this out to you all -- is this unusual? I know the obvious answer is "new strings"; it's just going to take a couple weeks to swing the money comfortably.

The other issue really surprised me. The tuning machines, as in the posts and gears, work as they should. However, I was noticing some rattle, and then suddenly the key on the E string FELL OFF. As I investigated, I saw something I'd never seen before -- machine heads where the key is simply pushed onto the post after aligning the guide into place. I pushed the key back on with no problem, but in inspecting all the heads, I got a wide range of condition -- one would not pull off even with a good tug, two were fine off/on and were tight when on, and the E? Well, even pushed in all the way, it was not tightly held, and will probably fall off again. Obviously, I do not want this "removal" feature to show up in the middle of a set or song! So again, I pose it out to all of you -- had this experience, best way to fix (yes, replacement is always a choice, but see previous paragraph about cost concerns) without fowling the movement and function of the machine head.

So that's my take and concerns. Thank you to all who have participated in this thread over the years -- it has been remarkably helpful.

--T
 
#588
It looks like this after final upgrade.
 

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#589
Looks nice. Probably better with the hanging tailpiece, I need to damp the unerlengths with a piece of foam from a sponge.
Personally I would prefer a natual or brown dyed bridge (like the colour of the fingerboard. Would be nice for the tailpiece too.
It seems that you got a RDL rosewood fingerboard Stagg. They are nice.
The body support is the only thing that should be improved on all Staggs.
 
#592
I haven't posted here for a while, but I thought I'd give you an update. I have now had my blue Stagg EDB for four years, and while I don't gig with it very often, it is one of my favourite instruments. Last year I had the electronics looked at by a local luthier who screened the control compartment and replaced the 1/4" output jack. I have put a piece of foam under the strings where they enter the tailpiece to dampen the resonance, and have also lowered the bridge.

I often use the bass when I'm jamming with my 14-year-old elder son Thomas, who is a talented blues and folk guitarist, and I occasionally play it along with a Squier P-Bass Special when I dep with a Blues Brothers tribute band. My intonation has greatly improved, and my right-hand technique is more "correct" than it was, although I still occasionally find myself playing with my fingertips to play faster!. I no longer use the Stagg's metal brace; it just doesn't feel right to me, and I actually prefer the feel of the bass without it. Sadly the bow I bought got broken, and I haven't found a need to replace it yet.

Anyway, here is a recording I made recently of a song I wrote called "Genie". Along with the Stagg, I play Wurlitzer electric piano, organ and synth brass, as well as singing, rhythm programming, production and editing.



Enjoy!
 
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#593
Hi All,

I got my Stagg EDB-3/4 DBR about 5 weeks ago. It's great, total value for money. I love it.

I've read every post in this thread and give a "cheers" to talkbass.com for providing this resource and a "props" to all the members who've posted over the years. In order to add to the database I've put up two videos: one shows me fixing a small flaw in manufacturing (or could be due to wood expanding/shrinking) and the other is an attempt to detail the string height/set up as it now comes from the factory, which is great. Outta the box, I was thumping up a storm. I'll echo trekster0721's point that it seems Stagg has addressed many of the original problems, which I take as a sign of a well run company.

That said, anyone buying a Stagg EDB should realize that it is a compromise purchase. You're not buying an awesome sounding, phenomenally designed upright bass. The design, materials (wood and hardware) and construction of this instrument are all compromises in order to bring the cost of very playable, portable upright bass down to the purchasing level of people who otherwise would never be able to afford to explore this instrument. People like me! So I'd like to publicly thank Stagg for making this instrument in this price range.

I am still researching what strings I need. I'm not a tone freak, as such. But I do know that for the music I play (bluegrass, pre-WWII blues and folk), these stock strings are too heavy/tense and can't play them for long without pain. Also, I'm an old man. My style is becoming a half-slap style where I like clean, clear notes but occasionally need to drive the beat with the clicks and slaps. Any advice would be great, I'll post again when I know more.

The string height, straight from the factory, on a Stagg EDB (mid-2013):
http://youtu.be/r7ebQuEXMAM

Fixing the thing that the body arm screws into:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxGjEG2YMy4

Yours in binary,
Dempsey
 
#594
I need a reality check here. The strings that came with my Stagg seem to be the same as the flatwounds I use on my electric bass (G&L SB-2, 80s model) when I played in a swing-rockabilly band. Granted the gauge is thicker, but otherwise they don't seem different. Of course I played those 12 years ago, so memory may be failing me (much like my back).

Thanks in advance,
Dempsey
 
#595
When recording I have found that the sustain is too long for a realistic upright sound. I have found an inexpensive everyday item which can be used both as an effective mute and also as a damper for those pesky ringing string segments between the tailpiece and bridge.

What is this object? It's a toe separator, used by women (and others, I guess :hmm:) to hold the toes apart when applying nail polish. The ones I bought were own-brand Tesco Everyday Value ones, a pack of two for about £1.

Link Removed

Get simple ones like this:
0001920_toe_separators_pair_300.jpg

the fancy ones with heart shapes on top will probably not work.

My initial plan was to place the four cutouts over the strings, but that had little effect. I then realised that I could turn it upside down, squeeze the "legs" together (the two outer "legs" can actually be tucked in) and curve the flat top edge. Miraculously, in this form it fits perfectly into the scoop on the front of the bridge, held firmly in place below and pressing up against the strings.

The second separator was similarly squished into a convex shape and slid under the strings and against the body of the bass between the bridge and tailpiece. It's worth plucking these strings to make sure you haven't placed the damper at a harmonic node, otherwise they will still ring!

I made a recording after fitting the bass with these items, and the sound was much closer to that of an acoustic upright.
 
#597
"Summertime", using my Stagg with toe-protectors fitted (see my previous post) along with acoustic and electric archtop guitars and sampled percussion. Sorry about the sloppy playing...



Below: mute at bridge (left) and tailpiece string damper (right)
 

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#598
butterfingers said:
"Summertime", using my Stagg with toe-protectors fitted (see my previous post) along with acoustic and electric archtop guitars and sampled percussion. Sorry about the sloppy playing...



Below: mute at bridge (left) and tailpiece string damper (right)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the pictures, and the song demo does sound more like an upright now... thanks for the tip!
 
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#600
Guys would you recommend this EUB for bowing? I'm a violin and EB player and i would like something to bow. There's no way I'm gonna buy a whole real UB, as a matter of fact I'm not really interested in having one: something just in between of a fretless and a UB would do for me.

In case: 1) Can I start bowing with the default strings or would you recommend an upgrade (suggestion please, I'm thinking of Daddario Prelude 'couse of the price. On my violin I like Pirastro Tonica, on my EB Ernie Ball Super Slinky.).
2) What do you think of this very cheap carbon bow: Invalid Link Removed [1]? 3/4 is the right size I guess? Would that be something usable or a Carbondix (3 time the price...) is the minimum decency?

1.Roth & Junius RJCF-01F Carbon Bass Bow

Roth & Junius RJCF-01F Carbon Bass Bow, 3/4 bass bow, French model, round carbon fiber stick, ebony frog with Parisian eye.
 

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