Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread
- Thread starter derrenleepoole
- Start date
I have recently bought a demo used Stagg, with the support bars / metal arms missing (I got it cheap). I have never played upright bass before, acoustic or electric, so not sure yet if I will miss the support bars. I guess the support bar on the body side (right arm side) it's the one I maybe will miss, so I consider to make myself one. Does anybody here have the measurements for the original support bar? Or even a spare one for sale? Any ideas on how to make a selfmade one?
Better make something yourself, because the supports are made from rubber-plastic coated aluminium rod and bend under pressure.
You only need the right hand side for the body unless you feel you need the left hand side as a reference for going into thump position. (The rubber coating of the aluminium rods is helpful for the reight hand side, but not for the left hand side.)
Biuld something solid that won't wobble like the original supports and you will be much more happy than with the original supports.
You only need the right hand side for the body unless you feel you need the left hand side as a reference for going into thump position. (The rubber coating of the aluminium rods is helpful for the reight hand side, but not for the left hand side.)
Biuld something solid that won't wobble like the original supports and you will be much more happy than with the original supports.
I was in the same situation, bought a wreck that had been stripped for some parts.
As you've noticed, the stick is hardly playable without the bars, as it will rotate back and forth when you play...
My first solution was to stick a medium sized Philips screwdriver into the topmost of the holes used for the bar. That actually worked well enough, the handle of the screwdriver rested quite comfortably towards my chest, and the bass was quite stable.
Although I considered getting some steel rods and bend my own, I found a better solution: I cut a pad 200 by 200 mm pad out of 50 mm thick styrofoam, covered it with duct tape, and fastened it onto the back of the bass with Velcro. Now I can lean the bass on my chest very much like an acoustic.
I attached a picture, you can see the pad quite clearly just above my right hand.
Attachments
Without prejudice to Groucho, that is some terrible technique posturewise. I'd advise strongly against such a pad solution.
You can clamp a "broom" foot to the bottom of the end pin to make it stable, at least in lower positions.
I can measure the stock arm when I get home. Roughly 8" extension. It does a 90° bend after plugging in then ~8" and reverse 90° forms the resting part on the return.
You can clamp a "broom" foot to the bottom of the end pin to make it stable, at least in lower positions.
I can measure the stock arm when I get home. Roughly 8" extension. It does a 90° bend after plugging in then ~8" and reverse 90° forms the resting part on the return.
For those of you that do not have the body posts for your Stagg, I did this:
It is a T the vertical portion is 5 7/8th" to the bottom of the top of the T, and the horizontal portion is 5". Both ends of the vertical portion were drilled for 1/4" lag bolts. The top of the horizontal portion was drilled for the lag bolts and recessed so the head of the lag bolt did not catch on clothing or have a metal surface protruding. Before I put the lag bolt into the bottom of the vertical portion I put it in an electric drill threads first and using a hack saw cut the head off the bolt. Then try to put the bolt shoulder into the hole on the bass to see if it fits snugly use some Vaseline or hand lotion to lubricate it. If it will not fit start up the drill and using a flat file take off a little of the shoulder of the bolt until it fits. Use a second bolt to create threads in the vertical portion then back it out and using vicegrips to grip it near the threads put the bolt into the wood. Caution drill the holes in the wood tighter than you would think i.e. smaller than the lag bolt. Tried to post a pic but no go.
It is a T the vertical portion is 5 7/8th" to the bottom of the top of the T, and the horizontal portion is 5". Both ends of the vertical portion were drilled for 1/4" lag bolts. The top of the horizontal portion was drilled for the lag bolts and recessed so the head of the lag bolt did not catch on clothing or have a metal surface protruding. Before I put the lag bolt into the bottom of the vertical portion I put it in an electric drill threads first and using a hack saw cut the head off the bolt. Then try to put the bolt shoulder into the hole on the bass to see if it fits snugly use some Vaseline or hand lotion to lubricate it. If it will not fit start up the drill and using a flat file take off a little of the shoulder of the bolt until it fits. Use a second bolt to create threads in the vertical portion then back it out and using vicegrips to grip it near the threads put the bolt into the wood. Caution drill the holes in the wood tighter than you would think i.e. smaller than the lag bolt. Tried to post a pic but no go.
D
I just purchased a used Stagg EDB a couple weeks ago. It was in very good condition; but I have noticed what appears to be a few design flaws. First thing I noticed was the placement of the side position markers was wrong, they're about a semitone off pitch. No biggie though, I just covered them up with ET. From my experiences with fretless bass as well as casual advice from a few seasoned string players, its better to develop good intonation by feel and ear rather than sight...eyes should focus more on the music, not the fretboard. Another qualm were a couple of noticeable buzzes on the D and G strings at around to 5th to 10th frets positions. While they haven't rendered the instrument unplayable, they're noticeable enough to be annoying. The buzzes may also be the result of my limited ability on the instrument as well. If I'm able to develop a decent level of proficiency and tone the instrument's flaws might merit a visit to a qualified luthier; we'll see. But it might be a little trickier finding an DB instructor who doesn't have an aversion to 'electric' instruments though...at least that's what I've heard.
The fingerboards of the Stagg EDBs are not the best. They vary widely in quality. I have twoStagg EDBs, one with a rather buzzing fingerboard (at some positions) and one that is a lot better, even with lower action.
It depends also on the action of the strings. maybe turn bridge a bit higher and the buzzing might be reduced or even might go away (specially at the higher positions).
It depends also on the action of the strings. maybe turn bridge a bit higher and the buzzing might be reduced or even might go away (specially at the higher positions).
I have been wondering about the position markers for a while - mine are spot-on while others have said they are as much as a semitone out. Is everyone aware that they are intended to mark the actual fingering positions and not the spaces between them as on a guitar? Just wondering...
Folks - the fret marking on the side are fine, it'll be the finger board that hasn't been set up properly. With any new bass out of a factory you need to get the finger board planed (shot) and the correct relief (slight concave profile down the length) put in for the action you need. You also likely to have the nut filed down for the action you require. When the finger board has bumps in it, the point you press your finger down might not be the lowest point on the fingerboard that the string is making contact. Also, if the action is way too high you have to pull the string down a lot more to contact the fingerboard which will also affect the pitch.
Even if you could adjust for different fret position (which of course you can) a fingerboard that is not planed smooth will still be buzzy.
I you bought a quality new acoustic bass costing £2k from a decent stringed instrument shop, that shop would still get their luthier to file the nut, shoot the fingerboard, position the sound post and adjust the bridge - and all of that to the buyers liking (or if the buyer doesn't know they will ask if you are pizz, arco, or want a compromise between the two). This is a good thing IMO because different players want different actions. Jazz/pizz players generally want a lower action than orchestral, so if the stagg came set up for pizz, the nut would be filed down more than ideal for ideal arco and you'd have to replace the nut. For me, I use my stagg for quiet arco/orchestral practice so I'm glad the stagg's action could be tuned that way.
Take your stagg to a proper bass/violin luthier and it will come back with the 'fret' markings in exactly the right spot. If you want confirmation on where the frets should be then this site has all the calculations for you: http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/fret.htm
and those calcs also take the string bending effect into account too.
And like the stagg, those £2k basses also come with crap strings. Who is to know if the buyer will want pizz strings or orchestral? And even within each type there are choices and most decent players will have a preference.
So, when buying a stagg bass, as with any bass, you need to budget for a proper set up and decent strings. Don't worry that your stagg doesn't have an ebony fingerboard - it's a quality hardwood that can be re-profiled and repainted (ebonised) just fine.
Even if you could adjust for different fret position (which of course you can) a fingerboard that is not planed smooth will still be buzzy.
I you bought a quality new acoustic bass costing £2k from a decent stringed instrument shop, that shop would still get their luthier to file the nut, shoot the fingerboard, position the sound post and adjust the bridge - and all of that to the buyers liking (or if the buyer doesn't know they will ask if you are pizz, arco, or want a compromise between the two). This is a good thing IMO because different players want different actions. Jazz/pizz players generally want a lower action than orchestral, so if the stagg came set up for pizz, the nut would be filed down more than ideal for ideal arco and you'd have to replace the nut. For me, I use my stagg for quiet arco/orchestral practice so I'm glad the stagg's action could be tuned that way.
Take your stagg to a proper bass/violin luthier and it will come back with the 'fret' markings in exactly the right spot. If you want confirmation on where the frets should be then this site has all the calculations for you: http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/fret.htm
and those calcs also take the string bending effect into account too.
And like the stagg, those £2k basses also come with crap strings. Who is to know if the buyer will want pizz strings or orchestral? And even within each type there are choices and most decent players will have a preference.
So, when buying a stagg bass, as with any bass, you need to budget for a proper set up and decent strings. Don't worry that your stagg doesn't have an ebony fingerboard - it's a quality hardwood that can be re-profiled and repainted (ebonised) just fine.
Just be aware that a proper luthier is going to charge approximately $350.00 to do the job. It is a pain in the arse. You have to sand thru the black paint, the resin, the sealer and then the wood. I did mine and now have a maple (white) on a black body. I thought why re ebonize the finger board, if I need to play with the relief again then it is ready for me to do that. I only put lemon oil back after shaping the fingerboard to my liking with no bumps.
I ditched my bars. They just annoyed me. Instead I converted a camera tripod into a stand. Now it stays in any position I want, and I can walk away from it and play my EB on stage, then come back to it anytime. Check my thread from back in March.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/stagg-bi-pod-stand-963901/
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/stagg-bi-pod-stand-963901/
I have been using a "foot" I made for a while now. It allows the bass to tilt/lean in any direction as freely as the simple end pin, while applying friction to rotation so it twists with some resistance. It keeps the bass quite under control. For pizzicato, you can almost get away with no supports, but for arco, it is unworkable. this foot makes the bass stable for all types of playing. If there is any interest I could draw up plans, but the pictures in my earlier post (Post #269) are nearly self explanatory.
Link here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/stagg-eub-megathread-344951/index14.html#post10319425
Link here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/stagg-eub-megathread-344951/index14.html#post10319425
I have an idea for DIY body posts to the Stagg EUB:
Use 6mm copper fuel line (Invalid Link Removed), shape it as desired, then strengthen it using FiberFix tape (http://www.fiberfix.com/).
Any opinions?
Use 6mm copper fuel line (Invalid Link Removed), shape it as desired, then strengthen it using FiberFix tape (http://www.fiberfix.com/).
Any opinions?
Hi
Loved the idea of the toe protectors and despite some weird looks initially from my wife when I bought them home I have fitted them and think they are a great idea.
On a really minor mod I have done myself I was always unhappy on how the two bolt ends looked on the bridge adjustment so to cap these off and make them blend into the overall black theme I have found a couple of tyre valve dust caps look great.
I've got a Stagg EDB-RDL in Deluxe Dark Brown coming today and I've got a lightly used set of LaBella black tapewounds waiting for it. It's sort of a Xmas gift to myself after selling a couple of guitars on fleaBay. I figure since I just turned 58, I deserve a big gift. 
I've got a Stagg EDB-RDL in Deluxe Dark Brown coming today and I've got a lightly used set of LaBella black tapewounds waiting for it. It's sort of a Xmas gift to myself after selling a couple of guitars on fleaBay. I figure since I just turned 58, I deserve a big gift.
Are your La Bella's designed for a 34"-scale bass, or for the 43"-scale that the Stagg EDB is going to need? Just curious if you understand the scale length difference between a typical bass and the Stagg....
Dear sixway,
Well, I'm sitting here with the dumb look on my face. They're 3/4. Shoot and dag nabbit.
Looks like I have to re-read the entire mega thread... again... because I obviously missed a crucial point. I searched some other DB threads and learned that I need to measure the length from the bridge to the tuners and then add 4 inches.
I emailed Labella to see if the 7710s come in 43" scale length.
Well, I'm sitting here with the dumb look on my face. They're 3/4. Shoot and dag nabbit.
Looks like I have to re-read the entire mega thread... again... because I obviously missed a crucial point. I searched some other DB threads and learned that I need to measure the length from the bridge to the tuners and then add 4 inches.
I emailed Labella to see if the 7710s come in 43" scale length.
