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Steinberger Club

Looks like you're right with the neck through XPs... are there no bolt ons too?
15mm* is ok to me, 14 on the L25 starts to get tricky but since i run .040-.126** strings the difference is not that big!

*Mine shows up 16mm... bizarre!
**.050-.135 on the Spirit and the Warwick

Mine may actually be 16mm - I was measuring with a cheap wooden ruler. I haven't pulled out my micrometer yet.

The original XPs had a bolt on. It's confusing because Gibson didn't assign a new model name to the Spirit version of this body shape like they did with the rest.

Also, I just updated the links in the Spirit megathread - the archived MusicYo pages answer a lot of questions. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/steinberger-spirit-megathread-363051/
 
You put a strap pivot plate on the XT!


Is it a real one?

Where did you get it?

:)



Some optical Steinberger/Spirit comparison:

L25-XT25Frontresized_zps5ac56438.gif


L25-XT25resized_zpsb2b7932b.gif
 
I think a pivot plate is the best solution for XT basses - I had a couple of fours years ago that I always struggled with, and I'm having the same issue again with my new XT-25.

Has anyone seen dimensioned drawings for an original Steinberger pivot plate? Or, can anyone help with measurements? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be hard to make one out of thermoplastic.
 
I think a pivot plate is the best solution for XT basses - I had a couple of fours years ago that I always struggled with, and I'm having the same issue again with my new XT-25.

Has anyone seen dimensioned drawings for an original Steinberger pivot plate? Or, can anyone help with measurements? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be hard to make one out of thermoplastic.

Here's some rude drawing, all measures in cm. Watch out hard shadows when copying the shape!
Imho it is better to use 1,5mm Aluminum tin than sort of plastics; it weighs and it moves... you won't do a long punk-jam! :p
Pm for questions.

Sb-PivotPlate_zps8fc9799a.jpg


Sb-PivotPlateFront_zps5ae68e1c.jpg
 
Here's some rude drawing, all measures in cm. Watch out hard shadows when copying the shape!
Imho it is better to use 1,5mm Aluminum tin than sort of plastics; it weighs and it moves... you won't do a long punk-jam! :p
Pm for questions.

That's a huge help - thanks! Aluminum might just be the material to use - it's easy to work and can be painted or powdercoated after it's tuned. Seeing the back side of the pivot is a huge help, too.
 
Some more details on the Sb-PP:
The PP is slightly contoured, the strap-buttons graze the back and will leave a furrow (as my L25 shows up).

The system shown on the pic can hardly be realized by an amateur.
Get a metal-screw (M6 x 25mm Allen Countersunk) with a drive in-nut as central suspension.
Add a small brass tube (somewhat 6 x 1,7mm for the suspension-screw and some steel-washers at the buttons.
(Brass tube to avoid the aluminum getting torn out; go for correspondent imperial measures)
I did the fixing point of the PP just by grabbing the bass with my thumb and index-finger and marking the spot with a pencil! ;)
Oops, the pic is mirrored: WATCH OUT!!!
DSC00284_zps8bdf90d1.jpg
 
That's a huge help - thanks! Aluminum might just be the material to use - it's easy to work and can be painted or powdercoated after it's tuned. Seeing the back side of the pivot is a huge help, too.

The previous owner of my XT made one as well. It works really well. I can post dimensions and what not in the Spirit thread of you are interested. He built it using chicago style screws and used a thick, dark, smokey plexiglass. He did a great job and I am sure it couldn't have cost very much.

Here's a pic

IMAG0144_zps446bc569.jpg
 
@Bernd, at first sight the NS Radius is really beautiful, the tuning unit looks like a another NS genius strike... but the backside has an unnessecery lack of the usual elegance. The cavity cover looks cheapo and the knurled screw is kinda missing the eagle-eye of other ergonomic detail solutions... what is the price-tag saying?
 
The cavity cover looks cheapo and the knurled screw is kinda missing the eagle-eye of other ergonomic detail solutions... what is the price-tag saying?

Cheapo? I own a lot of guitars, and exactly one - a custom build - does NOT have a plastic cover there. Maybe you can get a wooden cover, if you order the US version (instead of the CR version) of this bass.

The official retail price in Europe is € 2.250 plus local VAT. I don't know the "street price" yet, as there is no street price yet ;)