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Steinberger Spirits

Astral, glad to hear you're enjoying the WAV bass and got it at B-stock pricing. They are essentially the same as the Synapses in pickups and electronics. Yeah, you should still work on the Spirit!

Modding the Spirits was much like buying a cheap Fender Squire and replacing all the hardware and pickups and electronics. It is/was very easy to spend more on the parts than one did on the bass, particularly when MusicYo marked them down. I bought my XZ-2 in 2000 as a B-stock for $225. I paid more than that for the EMG HBCS pickups and the EMG BTC controls.

I have used the XZ-2 out several times lately for performances. It had been put up for a number of years, but I got it out the first time and it was still in tune! It was nice to rediscover that tone.. the EMG upgrade is pretty phenomenal, and the bass played beautifully. Very comfortable. Like going home again!
Yeah it wasn’t a bad price for the B- Stock ($435) and is tons better than the synapse basses. I once owned a synapse a couple months back and sent it back to the owner due to the cheap plastic headstock issue when you change the strings out to a single ball end plus I had issues setting up regular GHS Double Ball Strings. Overall headache with the synapse but I loved its tone and shape for what it was..

Anyways, since I’ve looked into the pricing of the HBCS pickups and the BTC controls prior to your response, I was actually considering to drop the $365 amount for the parts cause I had recently brought out my spirit for a couple of gigs and just wasn’t pleased on how it sounded. In regards to the set up, how long did it take and was there any necessary routing for the 9V as well as routing a bigger hole for the tone knobs?
 
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The EMG Selects are not bad pickups, but they don't have a distinct personality or tone- very neutral sounding with passive electronics. Assuming the electronics and strings were good on the XT you had, you may have been wanting to hear a really treble forward sound like you can get with the graphite Steinbergers with active EMGs. That isn't happening with a stock Spirit.
 
In regards to the set up, how long did it take and was there any necessary routing for the 9V as well as routing a bigger hole for the tone knobs?

I did the EMG HBCS/BTC install myself. Everything drops in place with one exception. EMG makes these parts now with their modular connectors, so no soldering would be required. The exception is the output jack. The Spirits come with a long barrel mono jack, and the BTC has a standard output jack that is ring-tip-sleeve. You either have to find a suitable barrel jack that will work with the BTC, or expand the body hole for the BTC jack and use a "football" plate which also involves two screws drilled in.

I did the installation back in 2000, and at that time there weren't a lot of parts available online. I went the second route and expanded the hole for the BTC jack. Since it wasn't a typical installation, it took a lot longer than it would if you used the barrel jack. If you do, I would guess you could do it all in about an hour if you're good with guitar/bass work, but it would involve desoldering the BTC jack and soldering the output to the barrel jack lugs.
 
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Just found this club so reposting here as I probably won’t get much love on the ‘real’ Steiny thread:

NBD - Woohoo, just picked up a Spirit XT-25 in white from a shop in Miami! Already have it cleaned and set up (need to polish the frets and oil the FB still) and it is nice. The prior owner was a lefty because after they got it they mounted the leg rest on top of it - now I have two holes in the finish I need to fill in or cover up. Argh!

That said, it has miniscule wear, if any; the frets look pristine (even the zero fret has almost no markings on it at all), the neck is arrow-straight, and the finish is otherwise in mint condition. Almost new looking! I set the action reeeeealy low and it plays fantastic - I'll live with the other niggles just for that alone.

I know I'm in violation of several unwritten TB rules (like no pics yet - going to add them after I post this as they're on my phone) including not searching for this stuff yet, but I'm going to ask anyway and if anyone is patient enough to help I'd appreciate it.

1. What is the best way to fill and refinish screw holes that have the finish chipped around them? Pics of that coming later...
2. Any other ideas besides $50 for a string adapter from EvilBay? I found an electrical grounding strip at Home depot years ago that I used with my four stringer but they didn't have one that had five holes in it at the time.
3. Has anyone routed theirs for a battery compartment and put active electronics in it?
4. Cases - I suppose I can find a plain-Jane rifle bag for it so TSA doesn't harass me when I fly overseas with it next March...?
5. What's the widest string that will fit through the headpiece? My apologies, I'm on vacation and don't have a feeler gauge with me (but maybe my B-i-L has one, hmmm....)

My background: my first electric guitar was a white Hohner G3T. I have owned a GM4T at one time, along with an XQ4 in fire-burst; a Hohner "The Jack" guitar, and now this Spirit. I probably sound like a giddy little girl; I know it's not the "real thing" but for my purposes (bringing something else on a trip instead of my custom five string) this meets the need. And it's headless!

It seems to have the tone I need although I've only played it through a little Roland I have, and as others have said that output isn't very hot at all. I'll see if I can adjust my other bass to match it volume-wise so I can use it as a backup without too much fuss. And I'll start digging for info on these things later.

Gotta run for now, thanks in advance for any assistance!
 

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2. Any other ideas besides $50 for a string adapter from EvilBay? I found an electrical grounding strip at Home depot years ago that I used with my four stringer but they didn't have one that had five holes in it at the time.
They work but I don't like them and the CF Steinie adaptors don't fit.
Strings aren't hard to get, eg Status and Ken Smith and not expensive, so you just have to mail order a couple of sets regularly for spares. But they last a long time and stay in tune incredibly well.
3. Has anyone routed theirs for a battery compartment and put active electronics in it?
I'm about to in both the XT2 and B2A but only pickups. I have a spare set of genuine EMG HBs and I'll try both in both and fit those i like best.

There's not a lot of room so measure carefully for the battery cavity.

There was quite a bit of pickup discussion about half way through the thread and went on for a couple of pages. There was lots of detail about models and sizes so best review. IIRC the EMG35 and 40 sizes can be made to fit easily.

Some of the very small modern pre's like Aguilars *look* like they'll fit but you'll most probably need to make the loom yourself or at least modify it to work.
4. Cases - I suppose I can find a plain-Jane rifle bag for it so TSA doesn't harass me when I fly overseas with it next March...?
I've never had a hassle. Just openly hold it up and tell them what it is. If you open it do it tuner end toward them so they think you're handling the rifle to them stock first.

Or, if you want to make some new friends, get the rifle bag printed with "Big Ass Terrorist Gun".

Not much help I know but I'm off my feet today recovering from a minor surgery and am bored.
 
Not much help I know but I'm off my feet today recovering from a minor surgery and am bored.
You made me laugh - and you were very helpful. I hope you recover quickly.

For the price of an adapter I can get a couple of heavier sets from Status so I’ll just get those instead. I liked the case idea but will just get a plain one to ensure a smooth journey.

I need to check the pot values; if they are 250’s and I put in 500k’s that would brighten it up. A three-band with sweepable mids (all stacked knobs) would be ideal but if I get a decent sound with new strings I’ll be happy.

Raz
 
Hi all, I was sent here after mucking about in some more elite headless bass groups.

I picked up a Spirit XT2 because I am a student, and the studio my instructor uses *might* have been a pantry or middling sized closet ages ago. I plan to use the XT2 for lessons, and the other basses I have for practice at home.

Here it is, in gloriously bad lighting:
_DSC4226.JPG
 
It’s 2 am, do you know where your basses are at? It actually is 2 am - finally settled after a 4-plus hour drive home from BiL’s place. Had a great time.

Anyway, I just HAD to plug in and compare my new acquisition to my main bass. So far I like it; action is perfect, tone is different but aggressive and punchy. Lows seem a little lacking, and the dead strings on it mean very little top-end zing. Status has a medium-heavy stainless set with a .135 B so I’m planning on snagging a couple of them.

I covered the screw holes on the top with a little ‘apple’ sticker that came with an iPod I have. It helped that it’s white.

Tomorrow I’ll be able to run it through a bigger rig. Later for now...

Raz
 
I'm not finding a consensus on serial numbers other than currently there isn't much rhyme or reason to them, is that the case? Mine is 140321xxxx; it seems to fit two digit year, month, day, then sequence but who knows. Anyone have a definitive answer? If it's in the thread I haven't seen it yet but I'm sifting through the pages now.

Raz
 
1. What is the best way to fill and refinish screw holes that have the finish chipped around them? Pics of that coming later...

There's the right way to do it... and then there's my way. :)
1) Glue toothpicks into the holes, but cut so they're just a bit below the surface. Or a bamboo skewer. Or both.. get it filled in a much as possible and wait wait wait for the glue to dry.
2) Go to your local drug store and find nail polish that matches your finish. (Take your bass with you, they'll be amused.) You'll be amazed at the range of choices and how close you can get.
3) You will slowly add drops/layers of enamel nail polish in the holes. Do this SLOWLY, like, hours between the drops, so each layer dries fully. It has a tendency to stay gummy/soft so be patient. If you're careful and lucky, it will look good enough not to require sanding or removal of material. If not, you'll level it very carefully with fine grit paper or even a razor (tape off around it). But only when it's completely dried, meaning, wait a few days.

This is not the right way to do it, but it's acceptable if done properly. I suggest you experiment on some scrap material or any finished area on the bass that no one can see.

Don't try this unless you're a little OCD. If you are, you can do it well enough so that the only person who notices is you. Good luck.
 
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There's the right way to do it... and then there's my way. :)
1) Glue toothpicks into the holes, but cut so they're just a bit below the surface. Or a bamboo skewer. Or both.. get it filled in a much as possible and wait wait wait for the glue to dry.
2) Go to your local drug store and find nail polish that matches your finish. (Take your bass with you, they'll be amused.) You'll be amazed at the range of choices and how close you can get.
3) You will slowly add drops/layers of enamel nail polish in the holes. Do this SLOWLY, like, hours between the drops, so each layer dries fully. It has a tendency to stay gummy/soft so be patient. If you're careful and lucky, it will look good enough not to require sanding or removal of material. If not, you'll level it very carefully with fine grit paper or even a razor (tape off around it). But only when it's completely dried, meaning, wait a few days.

This is not the right way to do it, but it's acceptable if done properly. I suggest you experiment on some scrap material or any finished area on the bass that no one can see.

Don't try this unless you're a little OCD. If you are, you can do it well enough so that the only person who notices is you. Good luck.
I like this - I've done the toothpick thing before to fill holes, so when I get the gumption to start I may attempt this. I can be patient enough. ;)

For now I have a sticker on it. That's my temporary fix.

Oh, I found a gig bag too, a 41" nylon rifle bag, the semi-tactical one with five mag pouches and one larger general pouch on it. Fits perfect, and carries well over my shoulder! $10 off CL.
 
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Try this again..... Copy/Paste barfed before I think...

https://www.gui****aterproject.org/epiphone.aspx

EDIT:> must be this site culling letters .g u i t a r d a t e r p r o j e c t. ;)
I know my XT-25 Spirit was Epi Qindao Nov '16
I punched in your # and replaced the Xs with 0s.... Try it with your exact #....

With last four as 0s.... Below might be accurate and might not... Toss-up sometimes...


View attachment 3229650
I got the same results as you, thanks for clarifying the link. :D

Eric
 
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Is it just me or do other people sound better than you when they play your bass? I'm not referring to skill (although it can definitely apply); I let one of the yoots at my church check out the Spirit last night after service and it sounded good. When I was playing it I felt it lacked definition in the lows and was missing clarity and sheen in the highs (dead strings). Maybe I was too focused on that??

I am happy that I can get usable sounds out of the neck pickup and both combined; normally (and even on my custom) I leave both pickups on full and adjust EQ. The neck pickup sounds a little fuller, has more lows than when combined; when using both pickups I get a slightly more aggressive sound with less low end. I dunno, aggressive maybe isn't the best way to articulate it. Going to order a couple sets of Status strings soon.

Later..
 
Part of it could 'where' you are listening from....

Bottom is usually always more pronounced a bit away from the cab in my experience...

Years back I worked with a bassist that complained about bottom out of his cab on stage... Out on the dance floor it was hattnin' on a grand scale, he just couldn't hear it accurately up close to it....

Think angle of incidence from perpendicular of speaker plane to the angle of a line from speaker up to your ears. Many guitarists have problems understanding the kill zone on their cab is straight forward perpendicular from speaker plane but they crank it (think cab sitting on floor) until they hear it clear at the angle to their ears which can be much greater than 45° off the kill zone line to back of club if they are close to cabinet. Less angle and more true kill zone dB blast farther forward. They don't realize they are busting blood vessels in folks' faces in the kill zone sitting in a chair....
 
www.guitardaterproject.com

That would be Talkbass censorship, the censor does not allow the use of the word 'guit a r d'. Without the spaces, that string exists in the Project URL.

Let me try something: basstard (edit.. HA!) One other thing: tard (by itself - edit.. works!).

However, as an insult, "tard" is pretty dated now anyway, and really no longer P.C., for those who care about that.

On a non-humorous note, that dater project site is really nice. Thanks for telling us about it.. I had not seen it, myself. I will look up my Steinies, Epiphones, and Ibanezes. It also dates Yamahas and several other brands.
 
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Part of it could 'where' you are listening from....

Bottom is usually always more pronounced a bit away from the cab in my experience...

Years back I worked with a bassist that complained about bottom out of his cab on stage... Out on the dance floor it was hattnin' on a grand scale, he just couldn't hear it accurately up close to it....

Think angle of incidence from perpendicular of speaker plane to the angle of a line from speaker up to your ears. Many guitarists have problems understanding the kill zone on their cab is straight forward perpendicular from speaker plane but they crank it (think cab sitting on floor) until they hear it clear at the angle to their ears which can be much greater than 45° off the kill zone line to back of club if they are close to cabinet. Less angle and more true kill zone dB blast farther forward. They don't realize they are busting blood vessels in folks' faces in the kill zone sitting in a chair....
Amp is a SWR Workingman’s 15, angled up, and I A/B’d both basses back-to-back from the same position. I’m over-analyzing and being anal. Not unlike most other bassists. :D

Different subject: I’m contemplating adding counter-sunk Dunlop straplocks on the back of the bass. One will go where the neck strap button is, the other will be a new location on the back below the top edge of the body and somewhere close to the middle front-to-back. That would help solve the odd shift to the left enough to make it more ‘normal’ feeling. Thoughts?
 

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