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Strap Lock Repair Help
- Thread starter ThomasTronics
- Start date
And has, which is one of the reasons I remove any strap lock mechanisms on a new bass immediately.
Schaller's several inherent problems include the part on the strap, or the pin in the bass, coming unscrewed over time due to the friction from the way Schallers rock back-and-forth in their cradle on the strap while playing, requiring regular checking / maintenance to prevent disaster.
The best strap lock is a strap pin of decent size that doesn't flare outward, since that makes it easier for the strap to slip off, and more importantly a rubber washer. Inexpensive, easily transferred, no maintenance required, rock'n'roll.
After retightening the screw of Schaller strap locks umpteen times over the years, I came to the same conclusion. As I use a different strap for each bass, I asked myself a while ago, "why do I need to take the strap off and put it on again everytime I play?".
So, I found the original strap buttons and screws for each bass, bought some rubber washers and replaced the strap locks or every bass, pretty much fixing the strap to the bass permanently. Just the act of replacing them with the original screws felt so much more solid (I have a feeling schaller's screws are ever so slightly narrower than regular strap button screws. My newest bass didn't get strap locks installed, so this one is absolutely rock solid.
I honestly don't think I'll use strap locks ever again. Actually, it's tempting to take a leaf out of Billy Sheehan's book and replace them with bigger screws and metal washers! See around 7mins onward here:
In answer to the OP, I concur with the other responses. Fix it properly or get someone to do it for you if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. Toothpicks/matches/cocktail sticks/wood shavings and wood glue works okay if the screw keeps loosening. But IMO, if it's ripped out, you need a more solid repair or it'll just happen again.
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Find a friend with a cordless drill. I guarantee you know someone with the right tools. Don´t muck about with matchsticks or toothpicks - that´s an emergency quick fix and reading between the lines you don´t seem too confident in your own abilities.
I promise you, if you do this yourself with toothpicks and glue, you´ll spend the rest of your playing days nervous about the repair failing.
Maple dowel, proper wood glue. Get someone who knows woodwork to do it if you´re nervous (it doesn´t have to be a luthier: drilling out a hole and gluing in a dowel is really basic carpentry. To any carpenter, it´s not a bass, just a lump of alder.)
Total job time is about 10 minutes (including finding the tools you need).
Any woodworker could do that in a coffee break for you.
Peace,
SoundSupport
I promise you, if you do this yourself with toothpicks and glue, you´ll spend the rest of your playing days nervous about the repair failing.
Maple dowel, proper wood glue. Get someone who knows woodwork to do it if you´re nervous (it doesn´t have to be a luthier: drilling out a hole and gluing in a dowel is really basic carpentry. To any carpenter, it´s not a bass, just a lump of alder.)
Total job time is about 10 minutes (including finding the tools you need).
Any woodworker could do that in a coffee break for you.
Peace,
SoundSupport
I used to use Dunlops and the screw held great, but the apparatus itself failed to "lock" one day and I ended up catching my bass before it hit the floor. That was enough for me to do a little research and find out many were raving about using those thick orange rubber washers that fit well over the original strap buttons on a Fender.
Now I had to put the original Fender strap button on where a bigger hole was...
I used a couple of wood slivers left over from home projects, dipped them in super glue, shoved them in the enlarged hole, snapped off the extra wood protruding from the hole, and quickly screwed in the original strap locks before the super glue dried. I suppose because I used super glue, there is no going back, but then again, theses strap buttons are original to the bass so I'm good with that.
BTW, those orange rubber washers work great, really snug on the original Fender strap buttons.
This solution seems to me to be overkill. I would think having a strap permanently attached to a bass certainly has an impact on putting the bass in a hard shell case for storage, putting it in a carrying case for gigs, replacing a worn strap, selling the bass, etc. Was it worth doing in order to save yourself 5 seconds of time putting a strap on your bass each time you play?
Now I had to put the original Fender strap button on where a bigger hole was...
I used a couple of wood slivers left over from home projects, dipped them in super glue, shoved them in the enlarged hole, snapped off the extra wood protruding from the hole, and quickly screwed in the original strap locks before the super glue dried. I suppose because I used super glue, there is no going back, but then again, theses strap buttons are original to the bass so I'm good with that.
BTW, those orange rubber washers work great, really snug on the original Fender strap buttons.
This solution seems to me to be overkill. I would think having a strap permanently attached to a bass certainly has an impact on putting the bass in a hard shell case for storage, putting it in a carrying case for gigs, replacing a worn strap, selling the bass, etc. Was it worth doing in order to save yourself 5 seconds of time putting a strap on your bass each time you play?
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Super glue has its role but not as described re: stripped-out screw holes. When swapping out screws in an intact situation, use the super-thin & a whip-tip and apply to the wood threads...allow to cure before re-introducing the screw. The CA wicks into the surrounding soft wood and reinforces. Other than that, stick w/ wood glue and toothpicks. The toothpicks get somewhat mushy, deform, and fill the voids where the "healthy" wood once existed and that's what a stripped screw hole is all about. Kinda like the Hokey-Pokey.
Riis
Riis
Toothpicks or wooden matchsticks and wood glue, screw it in while wet, let it dry. If you use epoxy or JB Weld it will certainly hold but when your Schaller Straplocks wear out and need replaced (if you play enough they certainly will), you will have a nightmare getting it out whereas the toothpicks and wood glue will screw out without much trouble.
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Not meaning to argue; just trying to understand. I've always had good results with toothpicks and wood glue--but this is one old dog who's always up for learning a new trick.
The grain on a dowel runs lengthwise, right? IANA woodworker...but putting a screw into the end grain is inherently weak, no? I can understand plugging a hole in a surface that wouldn't be stressed, but there's some kind of stress on a strap button.
I use toothpicks if I have a problem at a gig for a quick fix, but usually drill & fill with a wood dowel and wood glue once I got it home.
This topic interests me, as I have the old Schaller Strap-Loks on my Jaguar bass and I've been retightening and re-toothpicking for several years now.
So regarding these rubber washers -- after replacing the old Schallers with the original strap buttons -- do you just connect the strap, then slide the washer over afterward to lock it in place? Is that how it works?
So regarding these rubber washers -- after replacing the old Schallers with the original strap buttons -- do you just connect the strap, then slide the washer over afterward to lock it in place? Is that how it works?
Fixed this trouble with a Fender Mex Jazz. Replaced the screw with a twice as long steel screw. And glue.
I have repaired the same on several basses. Never had any other problem after repair.
Wood Glue and Toothpicks. And wood glue into the the hole while re-screwing in the strap pin.
But I have never put tons of pressure on the strap pins either by doing anything idiotic like this.
Watch at 1:15
Wood Glue and Toothpicks. And wood glue into the the hole while re-screwing in the strap pin.
But I have never put tons of pressure on the strap pins either by doing anything idiotic like this.
Watch at 1:15
Yikes! I agree, Drill out & fill with dowel & glue, A preventative measure I read once is: once driled to the right size hole drop a few beads of thin CA glue down, & let dry, it hards the wood inside. Helps Ho& keep the screw from getting loose. just make sure the glue dries or you're creatinng another problem!The "formally correct" answer is to drill out it to a slightly larger size, then dowel glue and redrill. The expedient answer is toothpicks and elmers.
"In Theory, Theory and Practice are identical. In Practice, however, they are not."
A rubber washer is overkill? If you mean Billy's solution, I'm sure he doesn't think so either, especially if you see the way he plays live.
My rubber washers are not permanent in the sense of completely irreversible, but only in the sense of the straps will stay attached to the basses for as long as I intend and it'll take a few minutes of pulling at the rubber washer to remove it. It's really not that difficult. I have no problem leaving the straps attached to my basses all the time, even if i used my hard case (which I don't). The straps are made out of soft materials and will have no impact on the bass or the case whatever I tote them around in. Yes it was worth doing. Nothing to do with time saving, it's about making a solid, fail-safe connection between strap and bass. In hindsight, I wish I had done this from the start for every bass I bought from new. Remember, if you remove and replace a woodscrew, it weakens the joint. You're best leaving it alone.
Sure, a more permanent solution like Billy's may affect resale value, but only if you're going to sell them. That's why I decided to use rubber washers - although I'll never sell my Attitude. I'll be cremated with that one!
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